Munkyb0y

How do you insert full size pics in your post, rather than thumbnails ?

Firstly, let me just get this out of the way. "Arse... the OTHER vagina" that cracks me the f**k up. I spotted it around a while ago, still laughing. nice one inark I would love to see Australia go far, but they're not gonna win the world cup. u gotta be dreaming. those guys make me so nervous when they play, it's like watching a backyard game. very poor ball control. Having said that, it was f**ken outstanding to see them score 3 in the final minutes against Japan. Woooooof**kenHooooo !!!

Anyone? make me an offer.

So it's not meant to be connected to anything? Can anyone confirm this? Nice website Munna1 What do you think about the way my boost gauge is connected (pic in first post).

Found this thread about resetting ecu, benefits etc. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ST&f=10&t=13711

Thanks Waz. I was told that if i leave it there, it may increase the volume of the vacuum line going to the BOV, and might reduce it's response in opening. Or the T-joint might be restricting the flow to the valve. It's working fine as far as i can tell. Does this line play any part in air/fuel mixture ? Also, while i've got ur attention (anyone), what is this plug for. Why is nothing connected to it?

That's what i want to know. Also, how do you reset ecu ? Is it even advisable to do so ?

Yeah, that's the way i would have done it. But this was already done when i got the car. I think i'd be better off re-doing it off the factory boost gauge line.

perfect !!!

I've got 2x dunlop 215/55/16 and 2x yokohama 225/50/16. They're pretty used, but still legal. Fairly even wear across the treads. I've never fitted these, so I dont want to say they have no punctures or anything like that. I got these from a friend just before i sold my commodore. And they've been sitting in my garage since. If you want them for $50, PM me. I'm in Sydney. Pick up only. pics:

If you want LEDs in there, i'm not the guy to do the guide. lol. might have shocking results. But seriously, i'm sure ive seen a thread on that somewhere around here.

I have an aftermarket boost gauge on my R33 RB25DET. The gauge seems to work fine. But i'm not sure if it was installed onto the correct vacuum hose. It's spliced into the hose that runs from my BOV. I read that it should be running off the other line that leaves the intake manifold (going the the factory boost gauge unit). Does it matter, seeing as it works ok? Running on stock boost, the gauge shows around 8psi at the top end. Here's a pic.

I might just block those vents, although i was considering replacing the whole shelf with mdf, for mounting some decent speakers. Not sure what that box is, but at a guess, i'd say it's important enough to leave in. thanks for ur help ppls. once again. this is a great forum, excellent community. only had my R33 for 2 weeks now. and loving it.

I just got this email from GFB: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ As for fuelling issues, whilst it is possible that atmosphere-venting blow-off valves can increase fuel consumption, it is important to note that they do NOT change the air fuel mixture when they are closed, which is any time you are driving and cannot hear it venting. When they vent, this is when it can cause a rich spike, but fortunately a well set-up valve will make no measurable change in economy. Since your valve is a Hybrid, 50% of the air is being recirculated, which in itself will cut any potential extra fuel use straight away. Second, if the spring pre-load is set correctly so that the valve only vents when lifting the throttle after boosting (instead of every time you lift the throttle regardless of boost), this will also ensure excess fuel is kept to a minimum. It is also important to note that most modern ECUs will cut the injectors on a trailing throttle to conserve fuel, which means about half a second after you lift off the throttle, the injectors will cut regardless of what the valve is doing. So to summarise, yes, an atmo valve can cause an increase in fuel consumption, but with the size, spring adjustment range and configuration of the 50/50 venting of the Hybrid, it is unlikely. Either way, if you are plugging off the trumpet, you will eliminate the concern altogether. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can anyone confirm? Is it wise to reset the ecu when you first get the car (R33) ? How do you go about reseting the ecu ?

Cool, that's a relief. I thought the previous owner may have butchered it up or something. So there's no cover or anything under there? U can see straight through the vents if you stick your head up from inside the boot?

My R33 s1 has vents on the parcel shelf, just at the bottom of the rear window. They are basically just an open vent into the boot. Is this how they're supposed to be? I thought i read somewhere that these were like a rear window demister (like the windscreen vents are), through the aircon. When the car is outside on a cold night, the back window ices up from the inside, through these vents. Is this just how they are? opening straight into the boot area?

I've got 18" onthe fron of mine. 235/35. So if you go 235 at the front on 18''s, shouldnt have any issues. I've got 265/35/18 at the back. I think 19" are ok too, but not sure of the width you could fit. Someone with 19"s let us know?

Ive only had my R33 for less than 2 weeks. Should i reset my ecu? Would this perhaps remove the previous owner's driving style, and maybe give me better fuel economy? As i understand it, reset ecu by disconnecting battery (positive) and hit the brakes or lights a few times to drain any remaining power.

Thanks Liz. I got it all sorted now. If anyone else needs help, i made a guide. Check this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...T&f=10&t=121616

lol i just posted it in DIY/Tutorial section. should be approved soon. I've had so much help from the SAU forum and members. And i've only owned my skyline for 2 weeks. This is a great community. Thanks again all. By the way http://www.ikkon.com.au is my own company. If anyone needs a company logo, business card design and print, website, etc etc. Get in touch with me.

I recently fixed my Climate Control OFF button. I noticed there were many others with the same problem. I made this quick guide with pics. http://www.ikkon.com.au/Skyline/climate.htm To remove the console and get to the Climate Control unit, follow this guide by NS2500 http://r33stereo.groovesystems.net/ SAU is a great community. Cheers ppl. Thanks for all the help.

Glad i could help Michael.

Ok, thanks for the help all. I've fixed the button now. I've made a guide to help anyone with the same problem. http://www.ikkon.com.au/Skyline/ To remove the console and get to the Climate Control, follow this guide by NS2500 http://r33stereo.groovesystems.net/ Cheers

Has anyone had any definitve results regarding fuel economy being increased by replacing an atmo bov with a plumb back bov? I've heard all sorts of things, like atmo bovs cause the engine to run richer coz the air measured isnt all there once blown off, but fuel is still pumped in according to air intake, blah blah blah. I dunno, it's all a big grey area to me. I've got a GFB Hybrid BOV. Currently hooked up 50/50 atmo. So it is plumbed back, but also blows atmo 50%. I can just plug the trumpet and make it full plumbed. By the way, if anyone has the screw in plug for my bov, let me know. I havent got one. Emailed GFB, not sure if they're available separately.