central coast person

frontline hobbies is where i get all my hobby parts from and even my tt01-Type E they have heaps more in shop than the site shows. I am thinking of getting a TT-01 type D but i duno if it would be worth it. The type E lets me go fast and not have a such bad time as the normal TT01 when doing 80km would be impossible for it. Thats my chassis with the parts i use to help me get that good cornering.

hahaha, my fiancée did the filming so its not my fault ill take some pictures of my chassis without the body. i have a few minor mods to help me drive really sharp like i was. (my car only rides 4mm of the ground........probably lower now, i haven't looked. yeah im happy with mine its is easy to control and ive tried other motors and its fine. (stock 540 motor at the moment but) (OO)SKYLINE(OO) yours looks exactly like the s15 on the HPI mags back a few issues. my battery lasts the same as yours.

Umm the TT-01 is an Expert build series. So the build is expert and the car for racing. these are also expert build lines. M- DT- DF- there beginner models are Quick drive models. Also the Touring car class's so thats SOME TT-01 chassis but not many......all the TA and TB etc are not classed as expert but as intermediate. The silvia you have is for beginner modelers but want a expert car (because it is a TT-01 chassis) so they come pre-built. It cost like $380 for the Type E and its comes with the R35 Body in the box so it ended costing me about $430 to finish it off.

Its the air/fuel mixture ratio. All it is, is that your either got too much air running through the engine or your to rich in fuel. I learnt this because almost all dirt bikes go through this. Maybe clean your intake and wipe your spark plugs to see if it fixes it. It wont harm your engine if your running rich so you dont have to worry.

i have two video's it . There ok quality.......i took them on the mobile so it isn't the best quality and there on the side so you have to watch it with a tilted head This one is when i was driving it on the driveway and in the garage doing some slides. I have racing tires on so there HEAPS good for grip but i can still drift it when the floor is slick (goes for about 1 minute) : In this one i drove it on the tiles with the same tires but it drifts fine. The space is so small i could only drift it a little bit (goes for about 30 seconds) : It looks better if you flip the screen on its side

If you want to know anything about it just tell me because i have all the info manuals and i found what the differences are between the Types in the TT01 range.

TT-01 TYPE E comes with modified parts. (engine, 4wd LSD is tougher and the driveshaft is better setup than the others ...... there are a few more little bits.) i have some pictures of it here. P.S. i was driving it and trying to video it and it was just to hard so ill get some tomorrow or the next day because no-body is home. Its only stock at the momment and i dont really know what to do too it? i goes about 55km so i dont know if i want and motor parts............. the LED kit is cool because the rear lights work and front are Xenon looking ill get videos of it doing stuff later.

i have the TT-01 but i have TYPE E so its way above all you TYPE D and standard people Heh Heh Hehhhhhhh. ill get some pictures of the car and videos of drifting and doing dounts on the tiles and leaving black lines everywhere. the engine in it is pretty powerful (18900rpm) and its tamiya brand motor so it ended up costing $750 all up i have the day off tomorrow so looks like ill be playing

(SAME AS THE R33 GTR AND GTS-4) Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) BNF27Z Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) KLC008 Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) KLC009 (THE ONLY THING DIFFERENCE IS THE REAR SWAYBAR, ITS MADE IN A SIZE 24mm ONLY SO YOU WILL HAVE 22mm ON THE FRONT AND 24mm ON THE BACK) Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 24m (rear) BNR26XZ

Sports Tuff: Heavy Duty Kit NSK-7056 HD Supercheap do it for $400 and they always keep on in stock

yeah i forgot about justjap. might look into it but it would be good for info from someone with a GTS-4. cheers mate.

hahaha, The whiteline factory is only 2km away from my house on the C coast. im getting Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) =$195 Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (rear) =$220.50 Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) =$117 Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) =$153 Seeing as its a GTS-4 i had to get all the GTR products but its still cheap. getting the top of the line swaybars and links. Because of the discount it makes it that cheap and there standard swaybars and links cost more than the price im getting there best ones for I keep hearing better stuff and even more popularity with whiteline nowdays.

hey guys, im basically re building my car completely, (engine and all). But im stuck in the suspension area. I was going to buy some Tein's but i contacted them and they don't make any for a r33 GTS-4 so what do you recommenced. I cant find any information on r33 GTS-4 suspension and i contacted fulcrum suspensions but they haven't contacted back. any info will help. Cheers, Andrew

well i did get these pistons from Nissan (Japan) as a clearance item. They are a exact replica of the stock ones but 50thou and were $3000+ at full price. I would have got sleeves if i didn't find these. i just contacted bendix and they don't know what pad a GTS-4 uses........... they just said take the pad off and size it up in the book.

i can get it from my friend for $750 2nd hand with no damage cat-back. im also running through some things on the Icat at work and apparently whiteline rear and front swaybars are same for r33's gts and gtr so im working out if a gts4 will be the same. Also dba slotted which a r33 gts4 is the same rotors as a r32 gts-t also have to look at tein coilovers i can get them for 1500 brand new (whole set) but need to know what ones to buy as the catalog doesn't have gts4 in it

yeah i guess so. i feel like doing the exhaust system but am stumped about where to go and get it done......wish Kakimoto did a non turbo setup from catback. splitfire coilpacks aswell annnddddd cant think of anything worth doing at the moment.

its been like 3 months since ive been on because i started year 12 and have just been busy with work as well and heaps more but i got around to fixing the engine %60 last saturday and another 20% more this Saturday (don't have pics of yet) Here are 4 of the like 30 pictures taken thats just some of the work with my uncle working most on it. ill try get some pictures of the reconditioned top end. Some of the extractors and heaps more other bits ...............what too do next to my engineeeee

mobile 1 is 100% synthetic but its a handmade synthetic so its only a group 4 oil because the synthetic quality isnt that of a group 5 (Redline or Amsoil). If you want a good oil redline 10W-40 is the best stuff for a skyline. 7.5W-30 will be blown out your skyline in a few weeks because simply we do not live in japan so the oil runs at hotter engine temperatures and there for just to thin for it to stay in, i warn you if you go that thin it will blow it out.

nar i got the engine and gearbox oil from the cars manual along with all r33 engines RB20E: 4.8 RB25DE: (2WD) 4.8 (4WD) 5.3 RB25DET: 5.0 RB26DETT: (STD) : 5.1 (N1) : 6.4 NOTE* this is when the engine is (over-haul) so it can have no possible remaining oil and the oil filter need 400ml as its empty. same or gearbox i got it from the book so this is why i trust that info. im 99% sure the transfer case is 1.8Liters but didnt want to say anything.

it could just be a fuse. The clicking sound my be a spark aswell because you could have triggered a short in the wires.

Hey, ive been busy with my car and all the internals are done, but before it drives i need to change every oil in the car. I have the manual but left it at a workshop and wont be able to get it till 28th of January. Wondering if we can get a list of oil levels for my r33 gts-4 Engine: 5.3 Liters (gts-4) Gearbox: 4.1 Liters (thats the only solid and sure information i have on oils for my car) Transfer case:??? Diffrential's:???? (also is the rear bottle in the boot for the rear Dif?"Atessa actuator" Power steering:???? Clutch and brakes i have experience with and there about 500ml's each. Its just those three i need before i go out and but the tiny redline bottles because a gallon is awkward and i suspect i need to get a quart bottle Please help as ive looked for those three and its all different. Cheers, Andrew

you will find everyone likes there sound because they either made it to there 'specs' so your not going to get a straight answer. I would recommend looking into the actual parts (aftermarket ones or get a shops custom one, material and size) these are the factors that determine the sound. Then after that don't forget you have to alternate other parts with each component on the exhaust system to get a more distinct sound to your taste. Go to some exhaust shops that do some custom systems because i reckon a custom system is the best sounding and its not as much as aftermarket piece whih will be the same quality. They will talk every aspects from the quote to the materials and size you want

davegts4 is right the Attesa system is smart like that. It also says in the service manual to never use 3 tyres and one totally different because it will cause an unbalanced reading and the 4wd light will come on which anytime that light is on just means the Attesa system is inactive. Guess thats the easy/dangerous way and you probity wouldn't want to do it because its a big WARNING in the book

ok i seeeeeeeeeee. big turbo fixes stuff haha, still you mentioned drift and i doubt the engine will hold up with all that pressure. The money will need to be poured in, in the long run.

gts-4, gtr have exact same system no doubt. bottom line for this thread wont be giving you answers about turbo like a turbo forum, anyone trying to make 300kw+ for a non turbo is going to have to spend the stupidest amount of money on the car and yes making it a gts-t would help if you want to make it a bit of a drifter car but maybe moving the thread would save you the hassle rather than deleting it because you already know its going to have to be engineered if you use any other skyline engine other than a gts-4 one or do the internals either way let the turbo people wave there turbo magic on you.