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hey Guys, now that my inj duty cycle is strapped i need to put the bigger injectors in. i have them here, SARD 700CC (light Blue tops) but don't know where to get the Injector Latency figure for them so i can work out the adjustment factor. 444/700 = 0.634 so 63.4 0.772 - (new Latency unknown) = Correction any one got a figure or a link? surely someone is running SARD 700cc injectors with a Power FC, i just need to know what perameters to put into the FC so i can run them? i have a wide band O2 sensor in car to get the A/F's right, but could really use a link or some information on changing ignition & fuel maps. no Dyno in Papua New Guinea & no one with aftermarket ECU tuning experience....................just me! would really apreciate any help

Mafia, here's a handy little tool i use http://www.fastcoolcars.com/hp_calculator.htm PS: don't forget to put the car weight in in Pounds.

Anyone..............................no reference to it on the US APEXI Web site either :

Tried a search, but no luck. I just installed a G Sensor & playing around with 1/4 mile times & PS readings. what does the PS reading given by the RSM relate to? Engine PS(HP) or AWPS(HP)?? does everyone agree with dividing AWHP by around 0.78 to come up with engine HP(PS)

Craved, definately food for thought!! i'm happy jetpilot bought the subject up. PS: legality won't be a problem here, that's the good part!

cool thanks Paul.

thanks Paul, that clears that up then. so will the display gauges read from the FC ECU via the consult port correctly? much easier to read the nice big blue gagues on the lap top than the small writing on the HC display? if not i guess i'll give it to a mate. great thread BTW

i really have no expertice here, so forgive me if i'm not making sense. i too have a Power FC & Hand Controller that i want to put in this week end, so i am reading through this & the FAQ with much interest. Could this econmical softwear & interface cable (~AUD$135.00) be of use to monitor the fuel & Ign maps via the consult port while your playing around with the HC?? at least then you have the table constantly displayed on a lap top beside you. here's the home page. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml heres a screen dump of the map trace i'm in the same boat as turbo, as i have the only FC in the country

i got 2 x 12" Subs, 2 x Amps & a Battery in my Boot, my spare tyre is 2 cans of Shhhhht that white stuff, 12 bottles of compressed CO2 & some tryre plugs. so a spare has never been an issue still gotta work out where i'm gonna put the surge tank, maybe i can cut the tire well out & put a drop tank that incorporates a surge tank where the spare used to be......................

HDT_SS06-03-2006, 06:58 PM for those who are interested....... http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/p...line3_small.jpg not sure but from a google search looks like there might be a pic on this forum, anyone more learned than me know how to find it the link doesn't seem to work?

ha, ha, yes i may be perverted...............i've been called worse sinistagst.............got any pics to share??

hey gtst25, so you've got a cooling mist kit also!! i got the clog nozzle detector, bronze check valve ect, just not the controller. Clog nozle detecor works well, light stayed on once & that's what it was.....................clogged nozzle! Mounting..............they said to me as far back from the intake plenum as possible, but on the out side of the intercooler, so i've got mine on the first bend on the out side of the FMIC. i got the M3 injector, which was too big & caused ignition breakdown until i put my new garrets on, more huff, now it works fine nozzle behing front drivers side spoiler grill digital intake temp gauge & LED for when Water/Meths is activated under right corner of Gready boost controller Digital Tem Gauge probe, boost controlled microswitch & header tank in hindsight, after reading Mafia's post, i will take the nozzle out & turn it 180deg, (or maybe just swap the IC pipe over so the feed is facing down, also relocate the clog detector to somewhere below the nozzle. less likely to siphon that way. don't want to hijack mafia's thread, but would love to hear more about the variable controller, i opted out as i wanted something simple. but sounds like it might be the go. what nozzle did you get?? no info anywhere on Water/meths inj on skylines that i've found, hopefully we can all share experiences

jetpilot, A W E S O M E ! ! ! ! what a sensational idea, being an old V8 LX Hatch Back Torana man from way back, i reckon you are really onto something here!! the Skyline already looks awesome from the rear end, but an Alloy or SS Drop Tank swingin between a set of 255's.........................man i just picture it. i gonna search & see if it;s been done before. maybe someone with grafics experience could muster us up an imiage!! keep in touch on this one.

Mafia, hey good to see someone else enjoying the benifits of water & methanol injection. It would have to be one of the most overlooked, engine safety devices, & cheap horse power available, and dates back to the 1st world war or before, still around & it works. I got a coolingmist kit from the US. no flash controllers, just boost operated microswitch, 3.9 US Gallons per Hour Nozzle (360-500HP rated), 150PSI Pump, one way check valve. easilly upgradeable to a dual stage as HP increases. http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=02P i purchased it for the same reason as yourself, except we only have 91 octane here..................nothing else!! (unless i run Avgas all the time $$$$$$$$$$$$$$) currently running 1.2bar (17.4PSI) with the water/meths cutting in at 0.95bar (13.8PSI) fantastic stuff................................ can feel the difference, even when running Avgas with the water/meths versatile, when u run out of Methanol, just run water, still cools the intake charge & minimizes pinging. i use 60/40 or 30/70 water & Metholated spirits, metho is 95/96 pure Ethanol & i can't buy Methanol in PNG anyway. but even if i cant get metho, i can use Isoprply Alchohol, Xylene, pure Ethanol, toluene............ Question, have you had any problem with Ignition Breakdown at low boost? what plug gap are you running? Any plans to have dyno tuned? i would love to see a run up on no water/Meths (keeping an eye on knock of course) & then a run with!! that's be awesome, please post it if you do. i only have a innovative motorsports A/F meter & at the moment so can only log A/F, RPM & TPS nothing like a dyno unfortunately, but at least allows me to see what my engine is doing as i add mods. here's pic of a log file at 1.1bar, WOT run 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th with the water/meths inj turned on. you can see distintly where the water/meths kicks in. i have quite big laggy turbo's that don't start to spool up till around 0.7bar, (then all hell breaks loose ) so you can see at around 75% of the max revs in each gear where the A/F dropps (richens) is where it is kicking in & doing what i't supposed to. unfortunately i can't monitor Knock at the moment, (but have an Apexi Power FC to put in soon), & i'm running the Std RB26DETT timing. so real keen to get the FC in so i can monitor knock & play with the advance. Mafia, would love to hear of any further tests or results with regards to water/meths injection.

Totally agree with the ground coats, tinted primers & value shade primers. but acrylic laquer is Henry Ford technology & there is no reason to use "Old" technology these days. hi-build, LE (low Emmission) products are the way to go. (2K, COB & PU) Then of course there are COB's & there are COB's, we have 2 on our system, same brand, different pricing, different qualities & coverage to suit different markets. try & get a "warranty repairer status" using acrylic................it just won't happen, they won't go near you with acrylic. I wouldn't let anyone near my pride & joy with Acrylic (my own personal oppinion of course) If you want acrylic, go & buy a rattle can from the Hardware shop!

nismo400, like ylwgtr2 said it doesen't really matter what brand you use. some manufacturers have alternate chips for some colors where there is a known variance of shading from the factory, some colors actually have up to 6 variatons of the parent color code, but any reputable paint supplier should be able to come up with a "to the naked eye" perfect match. even if they can't there are clears available that can trick the eye using light refraction to hide repairs that may be a shade or so out. 90% of all repairs & touch ups are using materials that are not what the factory used to paint the car anyway. Factory or OEM products (original Equipment Manufacturers) are different to the aftermarket crash repair coatings anyway. most vehicle manufacturers use baths for primer & Positive/negative charges to get a uniform micron build of primer on a production line. then most these days are using Waterborne technology (yes waterbased) top coats, these unlike our well known 2K, COB's & acrylics require large volumes of airflow to cure, not baked in an oven as we commkonly see. Although i am told that some repair shops in Australia are now set up for this waterborne (Aquabase) technology. thevilworld, KR4 has a metalic flake, so your options are Acrylic or COB. Acrylic is old technology, needs lots of coats to get coverage & uses a 1K Clear over metalics, it's needs to have the C ra p buffed out of it & will loose shine quickly. if you can afford to, stay away from it! COB (Clear Over Base) is a modified acrylic, much better coverage & color matchability & uses a 2K (2 Pack) clear over the top. a good painter will get a shine straight off the gun, no need for buffing & the coating will be durable & last for years..................Go COB, for the extra cost it is a far better prospect! find a reputable repairer & talk to them.

here tis.......................check it out................great Vid i reckon http://www.sikvid.com/vids/1652.html

He, he, gotta love these Bike Vs's Car threads!! beat the odds "Get Both of them" I got one of each, Different Beasts, & i love em both i've seen a skilled rider (deinately not me) run an 1100 Gixxer at Willowbank into the high 9's, no wheelie bars & didn't get the front wheel up at all. now that's talent! Love to see that up against a tried & prooven 9sec GTR..............that would be awesome! but as for you 11.5sec & above GTR boys.................my Duke & just about any other liter bike on the road is gonna Smoke you in a straight line!! Corners..................now that's a different story!!

ylwgtr2, ok so no hassles for protec. just strange for me bacause all our cars are jap market up here & very unusual not to have a code come up like that on a factory run car outa japan. we sometimes have trouble with Ford Rangers built in Tailand or Toyota Kijangs built in Indonesia, but not normally jap cars outa japan, sorta a first for me.

Cool, maybe mines still bedding in, wasn't in long before i blew up my gearbox, one too many hard hitting shifts, so looks like there's hope for me yet

nismo, yea i just got the latest Paint Code update disc available today direct from Belgium & your BT2 paint code is not on that either. our vehicles here are 90%+ Jap Imports & JDM cars, very, very little out of Australia. anyway, you know where you can get it, if you need the paint code. re the CF, if the CF is not damaged, then a light scuff up & repaint with 2K Clear will have your Bird s hi t effect looking like brand new CF again in no time. so if there's no damage to the CF it's self it's easilly rectified. just gonna be a pain in the A s s getting yours right because they are going to have to get all the old clear off & start from scratch. but the paint shop should be able to handle both the BT2 paint work & the refurb on the CF. never ever put Armorall on CF.................if you ever want paint to stick to it that is!!

while your comparing twin plates, do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre. a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!! Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

woops looks like the upload facility doesn't like bmp files, heres the Tommei in jpg it just oozes quality & look at all the extra's!!

i bought a set of GTR TT Low Mount manifolds off e-bay. my findings are 1)welds not a patch on HKS & the like (to be expected) 2)missmatch of gaskets & flanges was a problem that had to be fixed 3)generous clearances on bolt holes could allow for a 10mm missmatch "steel flange to exhaust port" lucky i checked first. 4)no mounts for heat sheilds or water pipes. 5)can't get at least one nut on each flange without having to grind the hell out of a ring spanner because they didn't allow for the fact that most people don't have ring spanners will less than 1mm cross section heads!! The add even said, SKYLINE R32 R33 R34 RB26 DETT LOW MOUNT MANIFOLDS HKS S Notice it says HKS this is what showed up i wasn't all that upset as i knew the HKS set was A$1,800 but fitting them up was a pain in the a s s !! i must have ground away 3 ring spanners trying to tighten the nuts & finally breaking the "Special Spanner" (& no wasn't about to gring down my good ones) i have a Tommei kit on order, just look at the difference!! Haven't got them yet, but i'm sure they will bolt up & just work like all the other HKS & Tommei stuff you buy!! Tommei_Exhaust.bmp Mind you the std cast manifolds are supposidly good for 600+ hp, so it's really just for the bling bling factor!! I WOULDN'T TOUCH E-BAY MANIFOLDS AGAIN.

i've only done a GTR also, like cruiseliner when you say you knocked "a" pin out............maybe you have only knocked out the inner roll pin, the roll pins are (well on the GTR anyway) double roll pins, one inside the other, so you need to use a punch big enough to knock the outer roll pin sleeve out, the inner just comes out with it. if this is the case just get the right sized punch & knock that outer roll pin sleeve out & it should just slide off. i assume this is the case because i cant remember the cast selector bit having a sleeve inside laterally with the shaft.