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OK, now i understand the closed loop running uses the Narrow Band stoc O2 sensors to monitor AFR? so how do you use Open loop? which i assume is utilizing a wide band O2 Sensor, same as is used for my LM1 ARF Meter?? woops i probably used the wrong abreviations, i don't have a SAFC i have an Apexi Power FC ECU & the hand controller. been working on the gear box today, so hope to be up & running, doing more testing this week end. if all goes well might put the FC ECU in & then test some more, then drop the 700cc injectors in. i wound it up to 1.3bar & did one 1/4 mile run on the Apexi RSM meter, i bogged outa the hole(still getting used to the solid centre twin HKS), then came back wheel spinning & still managed a 12.48 by the Apexi at 180kph, but i also had the laptop hooked up via Datascan sofwear, & the injectors maxed out at 107%, not good! so looking forward to getting the FC ECU & Hand Controller in so i can adjust. i'll post up the tables when i do some changes & see how it looks?

ali-turko, no worries, let me know which way you go?

ali-turko, i spoke with out DuPont DPR rep thismorning in Brisbane, he agreed that $6-10K is a fair figure for a Chromalusion job. Big Money, but there are other options. you could go with a Pearlescent job or if you go to a DPR dealer you can look through all the latest color chips, there are some really cool paint coatings comming out on new vehicles these days that arent chromalusion. we have a metalic now called XIRALLIC which is basically like the old metalic flake & comes in different sizes but instead of giving off a plain old silver reflection of the sun it gives off multi-coloured reflections & comes in different color undertones. you really should go & talk to someone, tell them your budget & discuss what you want to acheive. even your plain std onld nissan black, can be overcoated with say a layer of violet/blue pearl & coarse metalic (or XIRALLIC) flake, then cleared & cleared again but with a bit of Violet tinter (tinted clear) this creates all sorts of different effects! you could use 2 or 3 or even 6 layers of clear to give depth!! finishing off to is the Key to success spending time on final coating produces great results. a good shop will be able to do a spray out for you on a piece of metal to show you what your getting before it rolls out of the booth. don't dismay, you've got many options! seriously go & talk to a professional painter, he will know what you want!

Hey Sydneykid, thanks for the reply. Problem is up here, Toluene is More Expensive than Avgas! I think down there Toluene is real cheap? so it's cheaper for me to Mix Avgas & 91, which i do quite regularly, usually the last tank of Avgas out of the drum i mix to make it last longer. toluene is very hard to get as well, the only place i can find it is from a paint manufacturer. i can't even get Methanol, so i use Metholated Spirits in my water injection, Metho is 96% Ethanol. so i really need to get my engine set up to run on 91, with the water injection. i have an Apexi FC & Hand Controller with the Apexi Integral boost controller & Sard 700cc injectors, but i haven't fitted them yet. i was going to do that after out last data logging session, but i blew 3rd gear, so that has put me back a bit. currently running a GReaddy Profec B Spec II controller. here's my mods so you can get an idea; S/S Extractors Twin Garrett GT2860R (707160-10)0.6/0.64A/R (450hp models) HKS Actuators HKS Dump Pipes HKS Front Pipe Cat removed & 3” full back Splitfire coils NGK HITOP Iridium Plugs APEXI FC & Hand Controller (not yet installed) 600x300x125 FMIC (cut the front out to match the IC/8” Ducted air tubes to POD filters) APEXI POD intake Modded Intake Plenum NISMO FUEL PUMP Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator SARD 720cc injectors (not yet installed) Water/Methanol Injection Wide band A/F meter HKS Twin Plate Clutch PAR Racing Products Gear Set, straight cut 1st, 2nd & 3rd Helical 4th & 5th, Beefed up Synchro shift. Greaddy Prfec B Spec II Boost controller Apexi RSM Speed Limiter cut & G Sensor APEXI Coil Over/Adjustable Dampening on all 4 corners Nismo adjustable suspension/camber Reply to your random thaughts 1)A/F a bit rich, what tuning - none at the moment, when i install the AFC will start tuning the fuel side. because no Dyno or diagnostic equip in PNG this is why i need to get the LM1 working properly so i'm not flying blind? 2)ECU? std at the moment but AFC to install 3)A/F cruise normally 15:1. what is the Aim Table?? 4) closed loop?? what is closed loop sory i don't follow some of your terminology, i am still learning. (Having fun though) what do you think of the water/methanol injection? it seems to work well, i have a digital air temp sender in the last IC bend before the Intake Plenum & can with the water injection i get down to 88Deg Farenheight (32deg C) with an ambient temp of 26 at night. we get real excited when we get 26 deg ambient temps!! Oh, what i'd give to have a 15deg winders night, it must feel awesome!! anyway, stuck with what i got & where i am for now!

Nismo 400, Well not being Bias or One Eye'd as i am, i have to say DuPont is just about as good as Automotive paint gets!! You have landed yourself a very uncommon colored car for Australia! I think i could comfortably say there would be many around that color down under. the code doesn't even come up on my Paint Formula Retrieval Program, i had to contact Sydney Color Lab to get them to get me the formular off the Japanese disc! so this color was made for the Jap Domestic Market & not listed for Export. so see how you go getting someone down there to fix your Lip, & if you get stuck i can produce a Formula for a DuPont Refinish centre!

jakegts, depends on what you are calling sweet. the nissan color LX0 Midnight Purple III sure is sweet & has some color change on different angles & is probably around $400 or so per liter. full chromalusion like Absolute Purplene has a dramatic color change, from Purple to Green to Blue to Gold & is much more striking, check this site Nissan Primera GT here http://mysticcobra.net/ogallery2.shtml but is $1,000 per liter. also see here i am guessing at the prices as i am selling in a different currency. but absolete puplene say 3 liters would be plenty for a GTS-T is $3,000 then another 3 liters of base at probably $150 so another $450, then 3 or 4 liters of premium clear coat say another $500, so your looking at $4,000 ish for materials, without taking Labour into account. depending on weather its a full strip & repaint or a rub back & blow over i reckon youd have to bank on somewhere between A$6,000 & A$10,000 But i really am Guessing, ive lived here for 13 years & not had anything to do with the paint industry in Australia & i don't quote paint jobs here i only sell the stuff, it would pay to go & get a quote from a reputabe repairer, i listed one above in a previous post, or you could ring Dupont Performance Coating direct & ask for you nearest authorised repairer. sure makes for a hot looking ride.

raz0r$harP, just had a look at the FAQ just to clarify R33 LP2 Midnight Purple (no Chromalusion) has 2 pearl tinters Violet & Red R34 LV4 Midnight Purple II has Chromalusion Tinter KK760 Absolute Purplene & Vilot Pearl R34 LXO Midnight Purple III has Chromalusion Tinter KK700 True Blazberry Prizm & 2 pearls red & Violet we just recently painted a car up here in Full Chromalusion KK760 Absolute Purplene, i'll get some picks & post them...................Awesome!!!!!!!!

raz0r$harP, no worries, happy to be of use! we are the DuPont Performance Coating Distributors for Papua New Guinea, so just hollar if u need paint info

Jakegts, my digicam is stuffed, will try & get a lend of one. then i can post a picture of a GTS-T with the full Absolute Purplene Chromalusion paint job (one you want if you got bucks burning a hole in your sky rocket) & also a pic of my mates GTR painted in Midnight Purple III mines plain old black unfortunately!! here's some other GTR colors that may or may not be common Knowledge. BNR32: KH2 Gun Grey Metallic KG1 Jet Silver Metallic TH1 Dark Blue Pearl AH3 Red Pearl Metallic 732 Blak Pearl Metallic 326 Crystal White KL0 Spark Silver Metallic BL0 Greyish Blue Pearl BNCR33: AN0 Super Clear Red BN6 Beep Marine Blue KH3 Black KL0 Spark Silver KN6 Dark Grey LP2 Midnight Purple QM1 White KP4 Sonic Silver AR1 Super Clear Red 2 BT2 Champion Blue BNR34: TV2 Bayside Blue QM1 White KR4 Sonic Silver KV2 Silver GV1 Black Pearl AR2 Active Red EV1 Lightning Yellow LV4 Midnight Purple 2 WV2 Sparkling Silver QX1 White Pearl LX0 Midnight Purple 3 EY0 Silica Breeze JW0 Millenium Jade

Don't Hesitate...................Take it to your Local Dynotuner now & tell him its a fresh newly built motor he can just about run it in for you there & then! they will keep the revs down & boost down but can load it up more in 45 Mins than you can in 1,000 k's of street driving. then just up the rpms & boost every 100k's after that & it'll be run in, in a week!! the worst thing you can do to a new engine is Pussy it!!! this is my opinion only of course & i'm sure if you speak to HP engine builders they will agree!

Ali-turko, forgot to mention. although this color has the chromalusion technology tinter in the mix it is not a tru chromalusion color. it will not change from gold to green to purple to blue as you walk around. that is full chromalusion & be prepared to part with A$1,000 per liter. just thought i mention that incase you come back & say i said it would change color. none the less Midnight Purple III is a truly remarkable color, Great Choice!! BTW, it is DuPont Performance Coating color information i have given here, & apart from Frank at Prinz it can be obtained from any DuPont Performance Coatings outlet in Australia!!

ali-turko, the reason that most of them can't find it on their system is that Midnight Purple III has a special Tinter in it, KK700 which is True Blazberry Prism, this is whats called a Chromalusion Tinter. you might have seen a car at a car show that changes color on every angle as you walk around it, this is Chromalusion Technology. so if the Paint shop doesn't have the "Chromal" Quality activated in the Paint Formula retrieval program then the color simply won't be recognised. it is also a 3 layer process. after preperation & primer there are three final processes to achieve the color. 1) an undercoat coat is applied first (ground coat to give the final color its correct effect) 2) base coat (basically the color it's self) 3) then the clear coat it's an awesome color my mate has it on his GTR up here. you can ring Prinz Australia Unit 1/20- 30 Malcolm Rd Braeside VIC 3195 ph: (03) 9580 3419 Panel Beating Equipment & Supplies ask for Frank Rugalo (tell him the boys from PNG reccomended him) PS: he will have to have the "Chromal" paint quality activated in either his Colorquick or Colornet Software. here's the formular screen dumps. (don't take any notice of the pricing, it's in a different currency)

i have a 91 R32 GTR, it had the projector type with the H3C bulb in it, they are soo cr a p at night i just couldn't hadle it. my mate has a 93 R32 GTR & he has different looking head lights, they take a H4 easy fix, i put 93 R32 Headlights in mine & now run PIAA H4 Bulbs & can now see at night!

this is a great method for checking for leaks IC side or Exhaust. I use Plumbers Test plugs to block the intake (x2) & another one to block the exhaust, just drop it at the cat eliminator pipe (or Cat) & wind it up inside the end of the pipe until it seals. mines an RB26DETT, with HKS front Pipe so i need 3 x 3" Test plugs. then you leave all but one blocked & open one only & apply compressed air easilly & straight away you can see where the leaks are either on the pressure side of the IC, the Plenum side & the exhaust! found out my Intake plenum was leaking on runner # 3 last week. always heard a little whistle from the front, but now i know what it is!! great trick, worth trying!

SK, cool, love this thread & i'm gonna print it out & study carefully. my experience is very limited, but the main reason for purchasing the LM1 is that the only fuel we get here is 91 pump gas, nothing else, NO other option. (except i can get my hads on unleaded Avgas, but too expensive to run day to day) so along with my new Garrett GT2860R turbos & other mods & installed a Water / Methanol Injection system & the A/F Meter. my theory is that the Water / Methanol will cool the intake charge & avoid the pinking caused by Low octane fuels. i'll have a go at posting a couple of Graphs. you will notice that the A/F ratio richens up around 75% of the RPM range in each gear, this i believe coincides with the Water / Methanol injection which cuts in at 0.95 bar on a pressure switch. so from that i guess i can say it works. now i just need to play with the figures & reports & build some fuel maps to smaten up the problem areas. Main thing is, it doesn't appear to be leaning out too much under power & cruise is good at about 14. i haven't put the AFC & the 700cc Sard injectors in yet. but once i get some good datalogging recorded i will do the install & then do the same Logging runs again & compair. the first one is from cruise at 100kph, back to second gear & hard accelleration through to 4th gear then the second recording is from a rolling start in 1st gear, then WOT from approx 4000rpm through to 4th gear redline the last one i have done to date is, a cruise at 100kph how do the figures look to you guys? all these runs done on Pump Gas 91, Water & Methanol set to kick in at 0.95 bar & running 1.1 bar boost. i can't wait to get the boost, Duty Cycle & Knock sensors hooked up so i can log it all together! should make my onboard "Seat of the Pants Dyno" fairly accurate as i wind in more boost on S H I t E fuel!!

wierd that, just after i had completed the text above, i went down to send the post & it had an option to attach so i tried it & it works. but i didn't have to upload the image to the Gallery.............what gives?

Hey There, i tried following the tutorial on Uploading images, tried to upload a Log File, but said ERROR on the file type, so then i converted to PDF, Same Message ERROR on file Type. so then i changed to JPG & it appeared to work but hangs & visible is a blank page with the following URL sowing at the top in the address field, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php? i left it for an hour................Same i tried refresh................same and my pictures have not been uploaded to the wasteland as per the Tutorial example? do you know what i'm doind wrong?

Hey Guys only new here, 2nd post i think. i looked at building a kit, but i'm not real electronically minded. so i got a ready to go kit from the US from a company called Innovative Motorsports. Check it out here, http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php i got the LM-1 with the LMA-2 RPM converter. we don't have any dyno shops up here, nor do we have any diagnostic equipped workshops, so adding mods can be real dicey if you don't know what your A/F is doing. i have the A/F, RPM & TPS being data logged at present & soon to add Boost & Hopefully some sort of signal from the rear knock sensor. i was just starting to do some logging/testing out on the highway but unfortunately i shat 3rd gear, so i've been bussy installing my new PAR Gear Set. hopefully back up & running this week end. i have a couple of test logs that i could post once i work out how?

try, Brad at Spool Imports www.spoolimports.com or Sam at PAR Engineering www.par-engineering.com dealt with them both, both great blokes, very helpfull!!