PranK

Really? so its not going to matter that they are calipers from different vehicles? Thanks guys

Hey all, ok, so my latest problem is this.. The RHS caliper bolted onto the car using the standard stagea caliper bolts, the LHS wont accept those bolts as its a smaller thread and the bolts that I have for them are smaller (see attachment)... My q's are these; 1. Can I use the smaller bolts? (doesnt appear to be enough thread imo). 2. The calipers are obviously from different cars (R34 & R33/Z32 perhaps) - they look identical tho, should I get another one the same as the other side? um... anything else? I am getting so pissed at this now.. please help!

I have new plates now, you'll never find me!!!

Gotta say, the rear lights have been my fave aesthetic mod to mine.

Sheeesh, after having a S2 R33 Gtst and an R33 GTR, as much as I loved them getting into a car with room that you can park places and not be bothered by people and idiots trying to prove themselves to you... Its so nice. And its a bit of a challenge owning a stagea with mods etc, I like it and I like having something different. (And, heaven forbid, my wife actually likes it.... never had that before!)

Ok, I just spoke to Racebrakes and am taking my brake line out there now to get them to make me some lines. Also, gotta say, the bloke I spoke to was SO helpful, always makes such a difference when you speak to somebody who is keen to help. Christian

Stagezilla - where from? I will buy them now!!! The latest; Pittwater Brake and Clutch have quoted me $215 PER caliper to overhaul them and re-drill them.... bugger that. Heres some piccies of what I am talking about.. Standard R34 caliper and line... see how it seats into the hole and sits flush at the end? Standard C34 caliper and banjo bolt (round bit is still on the car) So, they are apparently not interchangable... So, I guess the last option is new brake lines, either braded or just from an R34?? Whata does everybody suggest? Oh... and a very cute sleeping ferret.

Hey Nick, did you buy Alan's? Either way, so cool mate and thanks will let you know... heres the latest. Nissan have given me the same part number for WGNC34 and R34 GTT front brake union bolts... So, I'm assuming that the R34 ones have a bigger donut thingy? maybe I can just use a small spacer after all...

Theres just something about you selling copywritten and licensed Nissan software on a public forum (which I am liable for) which just doesnt sit right with me... god only knows why...

Duncan, thats exactly the bit I am talking about. The new calipers had stiff metal short lines already bolted in but they wouldnt attach anywhere to the existing lines, so i unbolted those and am now bolting in the stagea ones. Again, does that make sense? I really wish I knew all the names of these bits. Thanks for the names of those places, I'll check them out tomorrow, I'd prefer to get the right bit before using spacers/washers. Christian

Hey SK, I will take some snaps tomorrow. Jake - thats exactly whats happening, the union bolt is bottoming out and leaving a few mm of thread outside the hole. Christian

Hey Jake, thanks heaps for the info, but at the end of the hole that the union bolt goes in, does it need to be a set distance from the end?

I am not sure what you mean about this... So the union bolt doesn't need to bunt up against the end of the hole? Where would somebody get smaller union bolts? And, the ring that the union bolt goes through, does the bolt hole (where the fluid comes in) need to line up with the hole on the ring? or does that not matter? I hope I am making sense. Christian

Demon, Got the front shocks too? or only the rears? Christian

Hey guys, I got part of the way through my brake conversion today before running into a little problem.. Attaching the brake lines to the calipers (R34 GTT). It would appear that the standard stagea brake lines will bolt straight into the new calipers but the bolt is too long. I didnt know if it would cause problems if i put a spacer on or some washers. Its only about 2 or 3 mm too long. The bolt that I am talking about is the one that the brake fluid flows down. Can I buy another one that is shorter? Does it need to sit flush at the end of the hole? Like, when the bolt goes into the hole, the brake fluid comes down the centre of the bolt into the caliper, but does it matter if the bolt doesnt hit the end of the hole or does it need to sit off it a little bit? *sigh* God I hope that makes sense.. Not sure what to do. Thanks for any help. Christian

I pm'd you about the Suspension. Please reply ASAP.

Let me know if they become avail again. Or the details of your bridgestone ones.

closed - read the rules.

Nah, sorry, dont agree with that. After owning an R33 GTR before the stagea and owning an R33 Gtst before that I can safely say that the GTR package as a whole is far superior to the Stagea and the Gtst with both performance, braking, handling etc. I have recently been considering dropping an RB26 in my stag when I do the manual conversion later this year. Altho, an RB30 bottom end is also attractive.

Still got this Satanic? If so, I'll take it - PM me and we'll meet up (I'm in Mona Vale).

Still for sale?

Auto Transmission [4spd Auto], [5spd Tiptronic] Is the series 2 a 5spd?

re-opened

Ok, few questions I have been meaning to ask for a while. My turbo has started making a 'shuttering' induction noise. So instead of the normal smooth sounding induction its lumpy sounding, like its not spooling smoothly at all. You cant feel it doing anything different (apart from the other problem, below) but you can hear it spooling strangely. The other problem is that it *feels* like I still have the standard dual stage boost control when I have replaced the BC with an AVCR. I dont seem to get much boost at all until right on 5000RPM. This happens regardless of what boost level I have the AVCR set to (standard, 0.6 Bar or 0.8Bar - usually driven on standard). I am almost hoping its dead as thats my excuse to the wife to get GCG to rebuild the sucker. But, that pushes my manual conversion back another month or 2. Second quick question, The RSFour V has the V-Spec active rear diff, right? Thats why I get the clunkiness in reverse at lock? Or occasionally in gear at lock. Doesn't happen regularly. Just making sure. Oh, and SK (only asking you as you seem to have more expereience in this area), from a SITC, Nismo FPR and the Jaycar fuel computer, can I expect much better fuel economy? Thanks guys Christian

Until you can answer me, this thread and all other threads you start will be closed.