R31 Gagz

What's your reasoning behind that? Why would it not work then work fine after my method to get the power back? Plus it has worked flawlessly for 4 years on this power level. Not saying your not right but would like to know your reasoning, what makes you think it could be the fuel pump? Cheers! Craig

Hi Everyone, Since my last tune at Racepace, I have had an ever present problem with the GTR. I was led to believe at first that it was a boost leak but I'm not so certain anymore. The problem is that you start feeding on the power and can hear the boost building but you don't go anywhere. It is usually really bad when the cars only been running for 10min after having been off for a while, once she's warmed up properly I slowly feed on the boost in 3rd or 4th gear where the leak (supposed leak ) manages to stay closed and I can built boost with good power...after doing that then I pretty much can floor it in 1st gear and it will hold good boost and make good power, taking off through all gears. Sometimes the "leak" will come back a little bit and I have to ease it on with 3rd or 4th gear again. Sounds weird but that's the best I can explain it. I'm pushing 320awkw so I know when its not making power and when it is , its really annoying not knowing whether its going to be there or not, I loose confidence with the car in what its going to do and also loose the enjoyment of the power on tap. I have double checked most of my intercooler piping that I can get to, the ones I can't haven't been touched for a long time and from what I can see shouldn't have any leak issues, we've also gone around with an alcohol/meth solution spraying all vac lines and such to try and see if it bubbles or changes the engine note to look for leaks, that didn't turn anything up. So any suggestions on what it could be, things to try would be very much appreciated. Currently I don't have the money to take it to a workshop otherwise I would consider doing that so I can get on with enjoying me car Thanks, Craig

Thanks guys, Ill relay the info on Cheers! Craig

Turns out my mate wants to try and accomplish this a bit cheaper and make the resistor pack himself, does anyone know what resistors he will need and how many? (one per injector maybe?) He's found a place in the US that sells the factory resistor packs for about $180 (not sure if AU$ or US$), does anyone have good condition one for sale that he might go instead? Otherwise I think he'll try and go the above mentioned route to save some $. Cheers! Craig

Thanks GTRNUR, my mate is extremely appreciative of your help! Cheers!

Hi GTRNUR, He is using a Link Plus G3 ECU to run Siemens Deka 850cc injectors, here's an excerpt from the ECU manual on injector drives: The LinkPlusG3 has eight independant injector drives allowing sequential, sequential staged, group and group staged fuel injectors. These injection drives are designed to be used with high impedance injectors, injector ballast resistors must be wired if low impedance injectors are to be used. So I guess he just needs to find out if the Siemens injectors he is running are low or high impedance, if they are low then use the factory resistor pack? Cheers! Craig

Thanks GTRNUR for the excellent info, will relay onto my mate and find out what ECU and injectors he is running and post them up. Cheers! Craig

Hi Everyone, Mate of mine has built a 1000hp rb26dett and is in the process of installing it into his r32 gts...currently he is nutting out the loom and electrical side of things and wanted to know if he needed to run the factory resistor pack for the injectors? Not sure what injectors he is running, obviously something big enough to support 1000hp ...if its important I will ask him and post it up. Thanks to anyone that can help. Cheers! Craig

Hi All, Mate of mine is building a 32 and asked me to find a bracket for him, its the one that bolts to the rear right of the engine (standing in front of the car) that connects and supports the steel pipes in the below pics. If anyone has one or knows where I can get one please let me know...and yes Nissan has been tried, apparently they don't make them anymore and cant get them in. Even if someone has one off at the moment and could trace in onto some paper, scan it and send to me, my mate could get something made up. Cheers! Gagz

Nice work ...let us know if they're going to say something on their show about it and when (media watch that is). Cheers! Craig

Hey Cruizer, Good on you for trying, if they want to look the other way and not accept the truth just so they can make some $$ there's not much you can do except as a few others have said, report it to Media Watch...would love to seem them get reemed on that show, especially when they are just using a blanket response instead of actually accepting the truth many people are trying to point out...that not every young driver is a hoon!!...I don't know if this is you Cruizer on the silvia forum as it sounds very similar but it is definitely a separate email from TT that has the EXACT same response to your email you've posted on here...so obviously using a template and modifying it slightly to the individual email, so really they aren't taking any of it in...just modify a template and send off to keep the "hoons" happy thinking they are getting noticed with a thought out reply (if such an immature one). http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=0#entry5032656 Good luck making some head way, I hate getting tarred with that same "hoon" brush just because I'm young and drive an import...its complete and utter bullshit!! Cheers! Craig

I'd definitely go the redline from all the good things Ive heard about it....although it should be used more as prevention that fix as its really only a bandaid on a worn box until it goes bang anyway. Cheers! Gagz

Hi Everyone, Giving my aunty a hand to sell her car. She is the second owner, serviced every 5000kms and is in excellent condition. Its advertised on Car Sales, the link is below along with a few pics. I have lots more pics for anyone interested, please contact the seller (Jan) for any further information specific to the car. Car Sales Link Cheers! Craig

Love it!!! Pretty much bought the 360 to play Forza 2...there are a couple of things they could do better, but pretty much my favorite racing game/sim...first game was awesome as well, actually wish they'd brought every track over from it to Forza 2 (except silverstone, hate that track..so hard to see where the tracks going, reckon its something with the permanent overcast day on that track ). Can't wait for number 3. Cheers! Gagz

Hi Ben, Yeah really not sure either, possibly it just works better? The pull type clutches cost slightly more than the pull type, so that's one con...you would hope there were some good pros for paying more Does anyone else know why they changed to a pull type clutch on post 1993 model R32 GTRs? Cheers! Craig

You had it right...in a way ...na thanks mate Thanks DG, that's exactly what I was after ...by the way if that's your gtr in your avatar, very nice...read the article on it the other week, 9sec twin low mount....crazy! Cheers! Craig PS...mods, could this thread be stickyd or the information added to an FAQ, it was very hard to find ....thanks

Hi Everyone, I have doubts that my 1989 R32 GTR has the original gearbox and clutch, how can I tell for sure whether it's a push or pull type clutch? I do know it has to do with which side of the clutch fork that the slave cylinder is on, but I cannot find anywhere clarification on which is which. What type of clutch is it, if the slave cylinder is on the engine (or front of car) side of the clutch fork? If I can find this out then it obviously also answers for the opposite side. Please only post if you know for sure as I've already read enough threads on here and GTROC UK where the information is incomplete or there are conflicting opinions...I need facts! Thanks to everyone in advance Cheers! Craig

Hey All, Never really looked that close before the other night, but my coilovers are Tein type NA which arent height adjustable and about the softest of the range according to Sydney Kid. So for now ill probably just apply a front camber kit with about 1 to 1.5deg negative camber to try and get around the problem. Once i've got some more cash Ill go the whole SK suspension kit . Thanks everyone for their input and help. Cheers! Craig

This is what its doing to the front drivers side guard. Cheers! Craig

Yeah I suppose that is one solution but I like the height its at as it fills the guards nicely and still negotiates all speed bumps and driveways fine so I'm really looking for a solution to keep it the way it is. Talking to Sydney Kid though, he says minimum wheel centre to guard distance is 355mm front and 345mm rear, where I've got the opposite, 345mm front and 355mm rear...so maybe the front can come up a little Cheers! Craig Edit - correcting my first post, the tyres are 255/40/17s..Cheers!

Yeah knew all that but thanks GTS4WD....thinking of only running 1 to 1.5neg camber, nothing huge and my coilovers are already at their stiffest setting which gets complaints from the ol' folks ...don't know whether the springs are progressive ones, might help. Don't want to risk cracking the paint so rolling the guards is my last option. Cheers! Gagz

Yeah same size tyres and rims on the rear but I don't have any problems on the rear, just the front when I turn as the wheel then is obviously outside of the guard. Cheers! Gagz

Hey All, Currently running 255/45s front and rear on ce28N volk rims but the fronts sometimes rub/grab the guard lip when turning and going over a reasonable bump. Running tein coilovers, not sure what weight or rates and as far as I know standard upper and rear camber arms. Do you think I could fix the front guard grabbing problem simply by getting some adjustable upper arms and adding some negative camber so that it turns the top of the tyre inwards? It has actually pulled the inside of the guard lip down a bit and I want to rectify the problem before it gets any worse or do some track work. Ill try to get some pics tonight and check to see what arms im running and what rates/type the coilovers are. I wouldnt mind some neg. camber anyway to add to the mean stance and would definitely help with any track work I do (not serious track work though ). Cheers! Gagz

Love it mate, very nice/clean GTR you've got there....I think the colour, mags and carbon bonnet all suit really well. The only thing I would pick is a few too many vents in the bonnet and just add some N1 side skirts and rear pods. Looks very tough though, its a keeper Cheers! Gagz

I'm sure I posted this last night and already had 56 views at the time I turned the computer off.....but it seems to have disappeared as if it was never posted, its not even listed in my profile's list of created topics today...am I going mad? Here it is again, the R35 in the snow showing why you want VCS enabled http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQlnGB5KsoE Cheers! Gagz