R31 Gagz

For those that don't want to download the torrent. I would prefer a Top Gear review as well....watching this I was like "meh".....the Fifth Gear story did nothing at all to excite me about it apart from I already love the R35 GTR.....Top Gear FTW!!! Cheers! Gagz

Yeah do what GTST said ^^ Mine is just the Power FC, not a jetro. Running after market dumps, I think they are Trust, the same as the rest of the exhaust. With the cams, you will get more out of putting some aftermarket cams in...the adjustable gears just make it easier to tune I think and you can adjust each cams timing separately. Not an expert here though so don't quote me Cheers! Gagz

Hey, I am running R34 N1s with the following mods: -New stock motor -Trust 4" turbo back exhaust -Apexi pods -HKS drag intercooler -Sard 800cc injectors -Greddy adjustable cam gears -Apexi Power FC tuned by Ben @ Racepace Puts out 322.8awkw on 20psi and according to Ben at Racepace, is a "safe" tune So if your motor is in good nick and you get it tuned right you should have no problems running near the 300awkw mark. You'll notice there is a lot of emphasis on having the correct tune Good luck with your upgrade, R34 N1s are definitely nice turbos for the street. Cheers! Gagz

Hey R33Turb, If you find that you have to keep advancing the timing on the CAS to "keep the tune" or make it run good, then it most likely it is on the way out. RB25 ones do work on RB26 engines, had one on mine but must have come off a motor with a lot of kms on it as it was half dead and fully advanced trying to chase the tune. The car would still start and seemed to run fine but on a dyno you could actually see the power curve spiking and dipping in the rev range that the CAS looked after, once it was in that range it couldnt read accurately what rpm the engine was at and was basically "estimating" the rpm. Put a new CAS on and power went straight up 40rwkw and the power curve was nice and smooth again. Couple more hours on the dyno saw another 20-30rwkw with a lot nicer power curve again and about a 15rwkw gain across the whole range with about 65rwkw extra on the top end where the CAS was stuffing up. So if you think yours is a bit sus, it could pay to get it checked out or even just try another good condition one on it and see if theres any difference. Hope that helped Cheers! Gagz

Heres a new photo of mine from a recent photoshoot Cheers!

Remove thread pls

WTF!!

I wonder what a custom twin turbo setup would be like....maybe slap a couple of R34 N1s on running 24psi or something....im getting 322awkw with R34 N1s on 20psi in my GTR, I know the rb26 is probably a fair bit more advanced in terms of head flow and setup to achieve that easily but surely with only .6 of a litre capacity less you could still see some pretty good power figures with good spool time instead of a big single child eating turbo. What does everyone else think? Cheers! Gagz

I definately don't like the look of a GTR without its rear spoiler, looks incomplete....but I mean its their car and their taste so they can do whatever they want and don't have to answer to anybody. But yes, add one to the "keep wing" poll Cheers! Gagz

Geese....it doesn't take long....ones been crashed in Hong Kong, ones been resprayed Lambo orange with aftermarket bits and now theres one in Australia....people don't muck around do they Thats awesome already having one in Aus for racing Cheers! Gagz

I read on a factory spec sheet somewhere a time of 0-100kmph in 4.2sec for the cbr 250 rr, I was 80kgs at the time and I know it was pretty quick to get up and go....and I know for certain I reached 200, my speedo needle used to wobble at high speeds so I had a mate on his fireblade (cbr954) ride beside me and he confirmed 200kmph as he matched my speed. I know there are a lot of shit cbr's out there, I had proof when selling mine as so many people would come and take it for a test ride and comment on how 5 others they had test ridden were buckets of crap compared to mine. And yes I wouldn't recommend going straight to a 1000, a friend of my father got his full license and with basically no experience decided to purchase and ride a 1000 from Melbourne back to his home in QLD by himself....now his daily transport is a wheelchair as a quadriplegic. But I know what it like to get your heart set on something so if you do get a 1000, just be bloody careful and don't go reefing on that throttle Cheers! Gagz

Yeah I think Ive heard a similar thing, you might have to do some searching though....should be covered on the forum somewhere. Cheers! Gagz

Actually Honda CBR 250 RRs (make sure its an RR) are quite a quick bike...used to own one and for what they are they go pretty darn quick. They are not a superbike or anything but will do 0-100 in about 4.5sec and can reach a little over 200kph...for a learner that is definitely quick enough....but if your off your restrictions, yes go a bigger bike....600s are great fun but if your planning to get a 1000 then skip the 600s and go straight for a 1000 and just be mindful of twisting the throttle too quick I never had trouble with my CBR over about 3 years in terms of reliability and you can get fairly good nick ones between the 5-7k mark. Cheers! Gagz

Thats why I own an R31 and not an R33...I would take a GTS-R with dished rims over an R33 GTR anyday, but thats just me And I love my old Silhouette R31....the rb30e just keeps going and going Cheers! Gagz

Hey Vija, Are you referring to a pump fail or oil starvation/surge issue? As far as I know there aren't really any problems with the standard oil pump, maybe if you do some track work with a 14-18 year old oil pump it would probably give way at sooner or later. I have heard that a lot of people have trouble with failing newish N1 oil pumps but others that are dedicated track cars also run them and have no trouble what so ever. A common issue with track driven R32 GTRs is oil surge/starvation....the restrictor on the head feed is too large with the return too small causing all the oil to get banked up in the head and leaving nothing in the sump. A quick fix is to overfill by 1 litre before any track work and empty it back out after, but to do it properly you need to fit a smaller feed restrictor and either bore the return gallery or plum an external return line. Hope that helps. Cheers! Gagz

SOLD....they didnt fit due to the hub bolt sticking through the front wheel center. Cheers! Gagz

Thought I would post up a pic of each model just for the sake of looking at all the gorgeous beasts HR31 GTS-R R32 GTR R33 GTR R34 GTR R35 GTR Cheers! Gagz

For me the order of preference goes R35,R32,R34,R31,R33.....sorry but the R33 just doesn't have the aggressive look/feel for me, not saying they aren't a nice car though. There are plenty of VERY nice R33 GTRs out there and I fully agree they look better in real life than in photos...I've got a mate with a R33 GTST and I don't begrudge his tastes, he loves it and wouldn't have anything else....for me the R32 GTR does it and wouldn't have anything else. Regardless of tastes and opinions, they are all legendary cars. Cheers! Gagz

My advice is buy private, all the 32 GTRs that I looked at in importers yards for comparison sake when buying mine where absolute crocks of shit. This was at various importer yards around Melbourne, someone like power play imports though usually import quality or reasonable nick cars (but also on the more pricey side of things as well). http://www.powerplayimports.com/ So checkout the for sale section of this forum and carsales.com.au in the private seller section. Cheers! Gagz PS...The R32 GTR for $27,000 about two fifths of the way down the page is one I was looking at when in the market, looks very neat and probably a pretty good price if you could get them down a grand or two. Good luck in the hunt http://www.powerplayimports.com/includes/c...php?make=Nissan

Would you actually notice the flex simply by watching the bracket looking up from the footwell while pressing the clutch??....the clutch pedal still feels solid and I imagine that it would have to flex a fair bit to affect the actual clutch this much which surely would be easily noticeable right? Cheers! Gagz

Talked to a mate whos a mechanic and he said it sounds like I've busted the diaphram. Will be taking it in next week to look at it with him and know for certain what I've done. Thanks all that helped. Cheers! Gagz

Well heres some you tubes I found - Flybyhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxOiiIykhR8 - Pit walk around, exiting pit into first corner and flyby Cheers! Gagz

Oh well im pretty certain its not that then as Ive been under the dash trying to adjust the pedal and it all looks fine to me....I guess that leaves the slave or master cylinder...anyone got a tech article on checking/replacing or bleeding the system? Cheers! Gagz

Where is the pedal box located? I want to try and diagnose myself before taking it in. Cheers! Gagz

Thank you Simon, You probably just saved me a grand on a clutch rebuild that I don't need. So is this typically the sign of a slave or master cylinder gone? I thought that was one of the things I might have done, but still plenty of fluid in the reservoir and couldn't notice any leaks at first glance. Haven't had much chance to play with clutches yet so I think I'll have to take it in to properly determine whats wrong. Cheers! Gagz