JonesyGTR

Make: Nissan Model: R32 GTR Milage: 135,000 Transmission: 5sp manual Colour: Gunmetal Grey Location: Melbourne Complied? Yes RWC supplied? N/A Currently registered? Yes Price: $23,500 Contact: Daniel - 0404 133 669 or PM Comments / Modifications: PowerFC and Hand Controller Upgraded turbos - Garrett 2860r's -7; X-FORCE stainless steel split dump pipes; NISMO Front pipe; 3.5" Exhaust; Sard 700cc Injectors; Alloy Radiator; ADVAN Racing 17" Wheels; MOMO "Race" series leather steering wheel; Tomei HICAS lock kit; K&N Airfilter in Stock Airbox; Gizzmo EBC; Bosch 044 in-tank fuel pump; Mongoose alarm and 3-point immobiliser. Australian Standard certified. Professionally installed; Genuine Nissan N1 front bar; I have all receipts relating to the importing of this vehicle and for all work done. Car makes 297kW at the wheels, dyno sheets available. Pictures up soon!

Anyone? Just after some input guys before I change the diff only to find out there is also something else. SydneyKid?

G'Day guys, My R32 GTR has a worn rear diff that is still quite drivable and doesn't really play up unless it's under heavy load on a tight-ish left hand turn. However, I have noticed lately that if I go over a bump the car becomes really unsettled almost starts pulling very hard to the RIGHT. Only seems to happen if the car hits something on the LEFT hand side (pothole, dip in road etc). In the wet, this makes my car very dangerous as you could imagine. I have subframe bushes (pineapples) fitted. Don't know if that makes a difference at all. Hoping for some insight here guys on if anyone has had a similar issue or can confirm it is related to the diff. I am going to get another diff, just want to make sure thats the only prob and that I don't need to change other things whilst I am at it! Appreciate the help! Jonesy

From the small description sounds like either your diff, or maybe a wheel bearing. Where are you from? Does 'thomo' mean Thomastown? If so, im not too far away, we could have a look/listen and see if I can help. Cheers, Dan

Been told that this needs to go, price reduced to $520. Dan

Bump.

Bump, pic loaded. Dan

Can people confirm the Trust dumps are a ball-breaker to fit? Or otherwise? I am not fitting them myself, its a performance workshop, if that makes a difference. (Ash?) Im guessing that the Trust would be better in terms of quality and performance over the JustJap ones, but is the cost difference worth it? Or am I not even going to notice. All other supporting mods are in place. Also - costs of the Just Jap ones? Cheers! Dan

Hi guys, Just a quick few questions: 1. Is an 'extension kit' the same as dump pipes? (im guessing its just a different name) - Im specifically looking at a HKS set. 2. Where can I source (if anywhere) dump pipes within Australia? Not interested in eBay MONSTA brand stuff. I want quality and proven direct fitment. Not 'hope and pray' gear. 3. Anywhere from O/S worth sourcing from that have a decent (less than a week) delivery time? Cheers! Dan

Price?

G'Day, Looking for Racepace's website, I cant find it. Does any1 here know it? I'm not looking to call them, so I don't really want people posting the Racepace number. Thanks! Dan

The tensioner and idler can be had for cheap, jsut DO NOT go to Nissan. They quoted me damn near $500 (from memory), i ended up getting them for about $90 delivered. Good idea to do seals while you can. C Dan

Bump!

G'Day, I have for sale a pair of Vic personalized plates - 'PSIFRK' Selling for a mate - however I will accept full responsibility for the sale. Asking for $550. Serious offers will be considered. Cheers, Dan

Lots of people, silly people, have tried. You risk the RWC licence of the person doing the 'bodgy' RWC and you put yourself at risk too. Not a smart move. At all. I really think that you should re-think this approach. My opinion. Cheers, Dan

Simple, go to an exhaust place as listed on the EPA notice. They will test, and can advise from there on what you need. There is a good place i have been to before, if you want the name, PM me. Your car could still have passed RWC, don't get hung up on that point. The exhaust shop is your friend in this case. Cheers and good luck! Dan

Anyone?

I will try and list all that i remember from when i did the 100k service on my 32 GTR: Idler and Tensioner bearings All belts (aircon, water pump, power steering) Coolant flush and refill engine oil and filter water pump fuel filter radiator hoses, top & bottom Diff oils Transfer case fluid (atf) Gearbox oil Timing belt - even if it was 'done' when you bought the car, do it again! Spark plugs There are probably a few things i have forgotten, I will add them if i remember them. BTW - i have all the above part numbers and where to get them from if you are interested. Cheers! Dan

Just for something random.... http://glumbert.com/media/superglue :sorcerer: Dan

G'Day guys, Been having a few issues with my car, here is the run down: Got an alloy radiator installed (old one was screwed) - since the time in the workshop (it went flat in there), the car wont start easily at all. Doesn't want to kick over. I charged the battery (which is about 2 months old) and after a decent drive, 40+ km's odd, the battery starts to become weak again. I plan to get the workshop to diagnose it 2moro sometime if i get a chance (i do full time work + full time Uni, so time is a bit tight). Does anyone here have some direction to point me in, i was thinking alternator perhaps? Its almost as if something is draining the power, I have checked all lights, and basic things like that. Any local VIC members able to help me diagnose at all? I don't have a multimeter etc. Cheers! Dan

Hi guys, I am wanting to know what is required to change if you upgrade the stock turbos to a direct bolt-on, such as the Garrett 2860r -7's? I know you can get the genuine gaskets from Nissan, wondering what exactly i need, and where is the best place to source them from? Anyone have any contacts?? Cheers! Dan

Ok guys, here is what has happened: The neck where the hose connects = fux0red. So im going ot bite the bullet and go alloy, rather than change again later (mods are planned). Cheers! Dan

G'Day guys, On the way to work this morning, i managed to somehow pop the top radiator hose off! I was still in my suburb, had only just got the water temp up. I noticed some steam from under the bonnet, so quickly shot into a servo and found the issue. Top radiator hose popped clean off! The clamp was still tight, as I had to undo it to re-attach. I refilled the lost coolant (only approx 1.5 odd litres). The car is now at CREATD as I am getting them to refill coolant and try to figure out what happened. The car wasnt put under boost, and nothing else out of the ordinary occured. No work on hoses etc for a few months. Any one have any ideas as to a cause, or was it just a case of bad luck? Im hoping no damage has been caused. Cheers, Dan

The pod will need to go, you can't have 2 intake mods here in Vic. Also, just FYI, alot of police don't care about an engineering certificate. I know you have already had it done, just don't bother with another one. I know people who have still been defected and sent to EPA, so IMO it is a waste of time and money for a daily 'stock-ish' car. Things like EBC and PowerFC are outright illegal (you may not get caught, just know they are illegal tho) Hope this helps a bit! Cheers, Dan

Guys, sorry if this has been covered (not going thru 11ty billion pages), I just wanted to get an idea of what people think of Castrol Edge 10w-60? For a 1990 R32 GTR with ~120k on the dial. Been recommended to me by a reputable workshop, they use it on heaps of their cars. Cheers! Dan