MBS206

No, they're complete and utter shit. Get on Street Commodores, or Just Commodores. The guys who are running those superchargers are getting some impressive figures on the dyno. But not ONE of them, can run a decent time. Guys with a tricked auto, cams, and exhaust, are running quicker times. Those superchargers are absolute rubbish, power is WAY too high up in the rev range ABSOLUTELY USELESS power in other words. As for turbo charging the Buick, VN - VR, beautiful engine for it. With a compression ratio of 8.5:1 they love some boost. Snort performance are selling bolt on kits for $5000 (Haven't yet seen them used overly as they're a new kit), with everything required, except the retune (Injectors, manifolds, turbos the lot) (There are also a few other places starting to make kits, for the same price and same pieces) The VS - VY engine is a bit of a different fish. Whilst still based on the same design. A lighter weight material was used to build it, and it also sits basically, at the minimum specs that it can. Hence, it is quite well known to punch a whole in the block at 12PSi. Whilst it's earlier buick 3.8L will run for a year or two on 12PSi without showing a single issue. With just a bolt on turbo kit, and running 12PSi down the throat of a buick, for $5000, you're going to be expecting around 200RWKW. When you get bored there, pull the heads off have them high flowed and ported, get a good size cam, and then send the intake manifold away to be smoother out. Whilst the heads are off, and cam is being done, upgrade the valve springs, seats, retainers. In the end, around $8000 with turbo kit, and top of the engine done, and you're going to be up near 300RWKW. Now, I currently own a VR V6 Commodore, (Hence, I know ALOT about them, I grew up with them) but I worked it out, VR Commodore, worth around $5000 at max, add $8000 to be pushing up at around a max of 300RWKW, with the bottom of the motor still standard (So a touch stressed) you've just spent $13 000. You still have standard crappy brakes, boat like suspension, and standard gearbox. Gearbox isn't such an issue with a manual (Clutch might be) but for an auto, it will be. So factor in another $2000 (MAX) there for a good shift kit, and heavy duty bands and clutches in the auto. But, now your car goes in a straight line, but won't turn. Now go and have a look in the for sale section at the price of R33 S1 Skylines. Same vintage car basically, (Touch newer). For a stocker, you may only be making 130-140RWKW, but the suspension is far superior, the brakes 10times better. And 200RWKW is only a FMIC, exhaust, boost controller and tune away. And hence, you can now figure out why my VR is for sale, and parked on the front road, whilst my R33 is now in the garage. Whilst a commodore can be made to go hella quick in a straight line, for not overly huge dollars in my opinion, you still have other limitations. The Commodore was built on a "family car budget" and hence, pieces in the drive line are NOT tricked up, and WILL need upgrading. No matter what you do to the Commodore, it will ALWAYS be a family car. But, for a simple answer, turbo kits start at $5 000, and then you need to start to fix things up as they break.

Can you give some symptoms of when it stalls? How it stalls (Does it sputter and cough and then die, or just CONK as if you turnt it off, or does it slowly drop the revs until it dies?) Conditions under which it does it? (Driving normal, after a hard hit on the throttle and then just releasing the throttle and putting clutch in?) When it's cold/warm? Only at night/day (Air temp variability) More info please.

I'm seconding the notion for straight cut 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. If it weren't for the fact of the amount of use 4th gear sees around the street, I'd also recommend it if it were to be used on the track. But since still street driven, do 1st, 2nd, 3rd straight cut, with synchro... Can't beat the whine of a straight cut gear!

Price?

Prob hitting boost cut.

I have plenty of garden hose and mints. If not, I'll put on some "COPY" Number plates, and do a servo run... (Yes, that's a joke!) Flutter is coming. It comes free... Yay to making shit at work!

Timmeh! I should be heading up. As long as the 'line has a full tank. And I should have my flutter plate installed...

Hey all I have a set of Advan Racing RG wheels on the car. The rear is running 265/50/R17 on it. Now, the current Falken tyres are rat house, so I went looking at the tyre shops for new tyres (Just for prices atm) and I can't manage to get any. Can anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney to buy them from (I'm even thinking of putting Semi slicks on it for track use) I'm currently in wollongong. Thanks

Still got the speakers? Particularly the one with the sub?

6000 in 5th is well past 180KM/h It's out near 215KM/H...

Think about this. If you wound the boost up so highly on a Skyline (Rb25DET for example) you'd be making 46% more power (If everything else remains constant) Basically, WAY too powerful for a stock car IMO. Plus, most likely over the "Gentlemens limit" The RB motor has a decent stroke and bore, hence, makes plenty of torque, even when off boost. The EJ motor has basically ZERO torque off boost, and as such, needs a touch more boost then a decently setup motor. Both cars are designed totally different, and both perform totally different!

I'll do it, but you'd have to redirect your phone to me. And I'll email you all responses. I'll do it half price if need be... As long as the calls I'm answering, I can understand there english fairly well (I don't deal overly well with "indian" "wogs" etc, or even alot of australian old people who speak overly slow and confusingly...)

If you throw a wider tyre, on a skinny rim, you will get great straight line grip, but absolute shithouse handing. The tyre rolls over the rim itself. And the same goes the opposite way.

Will you be home this weekend?

1x Toshiba notebook, Celeron unknown! can't boot it due to rooted HDD. was tip top until disk failure. also comes with charger & shoulder bag. Can I grab this? Also the vacuum cleaner?

Alot of the Car lovers and Laser Car washes run signs with stuff about the State Of California on them...

My tail shaft uni joint is shot to hell in my commodore. It shakes the steering wheel to the shit house. Change the uni joint. Problem gone. uni joint approx: $15 from Repco. My dad has also had many uni joints go, with EXACT same problem. If he gets on the gas, and the shaking disappears, it's definetely tail shaft.

For those of you who get yelled at by the people for using buckets and sponges at the car washes, point to the sign about not using them. It states it's only in affect in California... As for desal plants. If you set it up properly, you don't need the electricity to seperate it away. Hence no power in that regard needed at all! Plus, if the government were smart, they'd be buying electricity from places like Bluescope Steel (The amount of waste energy that goes up in the air, is MASSIVE, the only reason they don't harness it, is because they have enough to run the whole plant on there own, and no one wants to buy the excess) There's your extra power, with the same amount of gasses being released now. As for the greenhouse gasses, it's all a crock of shit. Have a look at how the earths climate shifts over thousands of years. We're just hitting to the natural point of melting the polar ice caps (Basically, the opposite of the ice ages we get!) It's all natural, green house gasses are only SLIGHTLY adding to this affect! As for recycled water. Do a bit of research into it, we have one of these plants at my work with your "6 star rating" and it's claimed unfit for human consumption. None of this "perfectly safe" we're told, straight out, it's unsafe and for industrial use only.

But this guy is jumping up and down about bad fuel economy. 90% of fuel economy problems are how people drive. If you want to boost the car every gear change, expect to fill up every 200-300KM. Basically, it's a different way of saying HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR DRIVING STYLE! And I'm not talking from just one tank on the hume, I was giving how I generally drive, each time I'm in the car. It's driver attitude as I said 90% of the time, that controls fuel economy. If I said my fuel economy, and nothing else, heaps of people would be like "WTF, why's mine so bad" whereas, IF they think for themselves, they might take a look at there driving style.

If a vacuum hose is disconnected, the car will bring the revs up to around 2000 - 3000RPM.

Ah well, now I know what that weird noise is in my liner, and why when I just touch the clutch pedal it disappears... No more worrying for me.

You guys have shocking fuel economy! I get around 11.5 - 13 L/100km! That's in an R33, 3" turbo back, 7psi/11psi (adjustable on switch) FMIC, induction pipe on turbo... Mind you, I generally keep the revs below 2500RPM, which if you do, you get alot better economy, I don't even meet normal atmos pressure half the time (Aftermarket guage too BTW) As for popping and farting. The AFM is measuring X amount of air, then you let off the gas and vent to atmos, hence, AFM thinks you have a shit load of air, motor has no air... Basically, it's going really rich as the BOV vents as the ECU thinks there's more air in there!

It rains here, at my house basically once every 2 weeks. I have a water tank that basically, we struggle to keep room in! If people were really smart, they'd start to set themselves up now for water storage. Hell, if people on farms can live without a source of water from a big ass company, so can people in the city. Hence why I have no issues using a hose to wash my car. Hell, half the time I do about 5 cars in a row, and don't use all that much water out of the tank. And we won't run out of water. They'll end up pumping it in from the snowies before we run out. That and end up setting up a desalinisation plant.

Won't stop me washing my car, smack in my driveway, in full public view with the hose. I "haven't" been able to do it for MONTHS, but it won't and doesn't stop me doing it.

It's not a "30-40 KW is lost" Other wise a car that only pushes say 60KW stock at the fly, would only be 20-30 at the wheels, BUT this isn't so. What it actually is, is approximately 30% loss in a RWD for an auto About 25% loss for a RWD in manual And around 20% is the general give for a FWD car of either manual or auto.