MBS206

When you go to clutch start it, does the motor turn over or is the motor seized also?

It's got way too much air. It won't fire. The car also won't fire up as you're only running the TPS sensor and Map sensor. It'll be wanting the AFM meter as that is it's main information source. Hook the pipes up, and then give it a kick in the guys!

Leadfoot: I now see what you mean by the bad seal... I went and ripped my back seat out last night, to install a 12" and amp... Man, what a shocking seal!!! I'm running my 12" firing directly at the boot lid (Towards the tail lights). I can't test firing across the car, as my box is too wide. But I had this exact same amp/sub in my commodore, when I put it in the skyline, I had to run the sub on minimum on the headunit AND turn the amp down... It's so much of a nicer sound in the R33... A single 12" will be perfect in the car, even with the seat in there!

Immobiliser in the car?

Um, after doing ALOT of research, the way the Bendix Ultimates are made (And the whole Bendix range) they shouldn't be run with slotted rotors at all as the slots will just tear them apart.

You need new uni joints in your tail shaft. Trust me, my old car did it. BADLY (Uni was shot to pieces) replaced, shake gone. Skyline does it too, and I know the uni joint in tail shaft needs replacing. Do you get a "clunk" at all when you go from 1st, to reverse (When on the spot with engine running) and then go to reverse? If you get on the gas once the vibration is up, it all goes away doesn't it?

Cheaper tyres, offer cheap grip. Cheap grip is SHIT. I have the same Falkens someone else mentioned earlier. They were on the car when I bought it. Seriously, if I wanted to KILL someone, I would put these tyres on there car. For lack of grip in a cheap tyre, I can spin 1st+2nd, and not leave a mark on the road, nor any smoke. How's that for a lack of grip? Put on grippy rubber! My old commodore ran shit tyres when I got it, I was going to put mags on and run very good rubber, but decided in stead, to save the $2500 on mags, and just buy tyres. $500 later (It's a family car!) and the car behaves totally different. ALOT more grippy. Just spend your money on the BEST gripping tyres possible (This does NOT mean the most expensive tyre! Read up on the thread above about good tyres)

sinistagtst: If the injectors, fuel pump, Z32 AFM and computer is there, and it is being setup on the dyno, what is a safe but higher level of boost to run? You say the car can handle 300RWKW on stock internals, is that just exhaust and cramming more boost in with a FMIC, or is that a ported head/cams etc as well? I'd like to know what a "safe" high level of boost is on the RB25DET for when I upgrade turbos.

Skippy!!! Any my girlfriend calls them a "Wogs Car"

The only evidence, I've been told of, for not wanting to run over 12PSi on a 'Line turbo, is the ceramic wheel. Do the GTR still run ceramic wheels on there turbos? The best way to decide on your boost level, is on the dyno, you can see what increase you get, and usually people dial in the most boost they can, before power doesn't seem to increase... Unless of course the turbo is likely to fail (From delamination etc)

Boost cut... Caused when the turbo supplies too much boost for the stock ECU to handle. Well, not so much handle, but for the ECU to scream "I WON'T LET YOU HURT THE MOTOR!" Basically, to avoid it, turn the boost down a touch.

Um, if you run a single turbo system at 14PSi, the turbo sees 14PSi. If you run a twin turbo system at 14PSi, each turbo STILL sees 14PSi... You don't halve it. What gets halved, is the CFM through each turbo. Two TOTALLY different things.

Leadfoot, have a look at your ADRs, if the battery is in the boot, the boot must be sealed from the cabin, yes, because Hydrogen is explosive, and it's also a LEAD acid battery... And I never said anything about poisoning in my first post. But the main part of the ADR stating that, is the fact of hydrogen gas being released.

Drop a standard head on it. Seriously. Most likely who ever ported the head has stuffed it up. Either that, or get the head flow tested. Porting is a pure art.

Something just isn't breathing... Are the cams dialled in properly (In the correct position) they may be opening and closing too early or late. Head might not be flowing adequately either. Turbo may be out of efficiency. Did you try winding the turbo down to see how much lower you can get boost without loosing much power?

Seriously... VN Series 1 Commodore through to a series 2 VS Commodore... I haev a VR, S2 in manual, (Trying to sell it at the moment) whilst it is NO competition for my GTS-t, it eats up FTOs, eats up Celicas, eats up basically everything else you lot have listed that a new P-plater can legally drive. Commodores, and Falcons, whilst a land barge, have this great aussie thing called Torque... It wins races. And you can't modify your car at all, except for looks. Even diff gear changes, from what the RTA has told me, is a no-no. Can't do engine swaps either (Even if engine is standard) Seriously, get a manual commodore. Absolutely nothing like a skyline, (And I mean NOTHING!) but they'll basically kill all of the P-plater legal 4 and 6 cylinders on the road.

I'm fairly new to the RB engines, but in alot of other engines, it'd either indicate turbo running out (Although this would equate to a pressure drop, which you haven't mentioned) or most likely the heads/cam aren't flowing enough.

I'm sorry, but how can a wiring diagram, for a car, help a theif? I can understand if it's the wiring diagram for the alarm, but isn't the person asking for the diagram for the car? In which case, people need these daily for doing thinks like ECU installs. (Ones that aren't plug and play!)

As for the commodore thing. I have a commo at the moment (For sale) the sub and amp package I have in it, when set in a certain spot, sounds like utter shit. I was ALWAYS told by people, put the sub hard against the boot, firing at the guys behind you, you will effectively rebound the sound against the wave heading out the back of the boot. But hey... This didn't work quite right for me. I had to actually move the sub about 20CM back from this point, to get the best volume. Now, when sitting in the car, opening the boot, causes me to actually loose bass volume, Why? I'm not getting the addition of sound waves. As for folding down the back seat, doesn't really do a shit load either, except prevent the whole car from shaking... (Makes a slightly cleaner bass note) It's all about the acoustics in the car (As noted before) the BEST way to find where to mount the sub perfectly, is to actually position it in the boot in box, shut the car (As if you were driving) and have a listen to a song. Then move the sub, until you find the best position for your style of music and your sub/box combo. As for removing the metal part behind the seat, it's actually illegal, as the boot in an R33 HAS to be sealed from the cabin, due to the fact that the battery is in the boot (Release of hydrogen gas under recharging conditions)

I have the same issue in my R33... It's been like it since I bought it (Around 2 weeks ago) the internal clock doesn't work, all of the fuses are A-okay and it has an aftermarket headunit in it.

Pull the sub out, see how it's all wired up... As for loosening up a sub, you're meant to play them at a lower volume for a few days, to allow them to loosen and NOT blow the cone.

It just can't deliver the fuel required. Hence injectors open further for more fuel!

Nope, still illegal.

Okay, my Dad is now screaming that there IS 3 cars here. I can't afford to run all 3 cars, so hence, dropping asking price again. Now at $5000

Orig edited by me... As said before, insurance is dependant on others, and don't EVER accept the first price the company tells you. They can go better.