MBS206

Injectors maxing out is my theory.

If it's something like a T28, it would be WAY too small for a 350Chev. I was looking at putting twin T28s on a 231CI (For comparison) was a 3.8L motor, and they would have been WAY too small. Even in twins. Small block I'm assuming would be something like a 253 small block. Look at something like the twin turbo setups from the RB26DETT

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly. The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted. Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop. There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Put a new fuse in. Simple.

There's a place in Newcastle that sells them from memory, and most reputable Hobby Shops (RC Hobby shops) also sell them I'm pretty sure.

ChadR33: Try running Shells 98RON fuel. I threw a tank of BP Ultimate in mine, and it did nothing but misfire, fart cough, popped a flame or two also (When using gears to hold me back) and I got pretty shit economy from it. I have so far found the Shell fuel to be the best (Have run Caltex, BP, and now Shell) Also, someone on here mentioned, if you keep the revs below around 2500RPM when accelerating, fuel consumption drops majorly, but get much above 3000RPM, and the fuel will be used the same basically as if you rev out to like 5500RPM each gear. Hence, I cruise mine, keep the revs down, barely touch the throttle when accelerating. So far this tank (nearly 200KM) I've only hit boost once, and that was only 5PSi (My "low" boost is around 7-9PSi) and that was coming down a short freeway onramp from like 20km/h, and needing to get up to 100km/h to merge into traffic. Normally I sit along way in vacuum even when accelerating (5mmHg is normally my "fast" accelerating vacuum)

I'm running 265 on the rear of mine, and 235 on the front. I get 380km to 45L if I'm just cruising and not caining the living shit out of it. I did 350km to 50L the other week when I was pushing the car for most of the tank. I get very reasonable fuel economy I find, and I'm running fair size tyres. Mind you, most people running tyres that are 17" end up having one of there single tyres, weighing as much as all 4 of mine (Light weight Rims FTW!)

He wasn't pumping throttle I guess.

Rear wobble is most likely a mm or two of toe out, or quite a few mm toe in. Mine used to shake exactly the same. Found out the car was running 3mm rear toe in. And for my all 4 tyres aligned, and suspension/driveline checked, it cost me $50... Don't know why on earth people think 4WS costs more :S My wheel alignment specialist reckons the newer and more "intricate" they get, the easier they are to set up.

Never once heard of an insurance company going for records for stamp duty at the RTA. And you insure it for an "Agreed Value" not what you paid.

Yes it will work, but I'd also be going a paper/cardboard gasket on all joins.

No idea on my actual limit. Have a 3" system, at idle, fair bit quieter then my mates. And I'm running a cannon. Although, sounds like a jet turbine when it hits 4500RPM at full boost...

Throw a high flow turbo on. Computer Injectors. Have some fun...

Engine temp sensor working properly to the ECU?

If it isn't remapped properly, for the injection pulsewidth at start up, it won't start. Throw the old injectors in, and see if it starts up. DO NOT drive it like this, as it'll be VERY lean.

Adjust your tune, for start up pulsewidth only, take the MS injector pulsewidth and multiply it by 0.49 This is the new number you should now enter. If this doesn't start the car, revert to old number (Write the old number down) I don't know what ECU you're running, so I can't even attempt to offer you some advice on how to alter it.

You should also have it setup so you still need the key in the ign barrel to start it (So, when ign is in "on" position, take the 12V from the ign barrel in "On" position to feed as a 12V feed to the back of the button) That way, when the key is off, car can't start.

The tune hasn't been adjusted for starting. $20 says it needs adjusting to start. The fuel map may have been altered, but the problem you are having is the cranking pulsewidth. What was your old injector size, and what's the new injector size?

The engine won't crank?

Ever seen the remains of a FWD, towing a "small" caravan and having it hit with a slight cross wind. It ain't pretty. RWD is the better way to tow. As to moving huge large "things" why wouldn't large tip trucks etc used in mines be FWD instead of RWD if it were better? Jump on a hill (wet grass does it easier) and try to drag your large heavy bin up there, you'll slip so easily. Now try and push it up. Much easier.

Get a sub, wack it in the back, when you pull up at the drags, starting pumping out the songs by Ludacris from The fast and furious...

How abuot stop destroying the environment and killing future generations. Whilst you're on the road, even if only 10% of the time, you risk I beleive it's a $15 000 or $25 000 fine. Might as well be prepared to sell the car to pay it.

Run a normal exhaust. You still need a catalytic convertor for legalities...

Guys, I'll vouch for the fact the phones are 100% legit. They are NOT stolen at all.

I've actually heard of people running times. Then stripping stereo etc out (But this included subs etc) Taking out spare wheel etc etc. And running slower times. They just didn't seem to manage the traction the weight gave them off the mark.