MBS206

My choice of ECU... Adaptronic. Will be running mine very soon, and taken to Jason's for tuning. It's Map sensor based, and at a RRP of $1000, very affordable. Boost control, etc. Runs basically everything. Will see what mine makes once all tuned up, then be throwing on injectors, turbo, and fuel pump... Stock engine, easily make 300RWKW reliably. But remember, reliability is all in how you drive it also, Jason drove the doors off of his for 10 months straight. and then it went. The only other type of car that would be driven that hard, would be something like a proper race car, IMO anyway.

Meant to reduce oversteer... I get moving, HICAS kicks in above the 80km/h... I hit a corner. Turn in beautiful, then HICAS goes "We're turning" and turns the rear wheels. Next thing I'm flying at the apex, (Way too tight) so I go to loosen off, HICAS decides we're straightening up and does the same, next thing, I'm going for the outside gutter! It does that CONTINOUSLY through out the corner!

I'd be expecting a rag in the intake pipes, especially if you bought the "new" RB20 from a wrecker/engine builder and not just out of another car.

When the gaskets leak, they make a high pitch noise, normally when they'er being revved under load (Accelerating up the street) It's normally a small hole, that if on an N/A car, wouldn't make an issue, as it's easier for the gasses to flow out the exhaust pipe normally, but on a turbo car, a small pressure build up occurs between motor and turbo, hence, it forces it's way out the whole. Could also be the boost controller is broken. Have you returned the boost controller set up back to stock to try that?

What is the stereo that is in the pics? I might be interested in it depending on what it is and what it does. Also, the plastic surround that goes over dash (Goes around the stereo etc and wraps over to the guages etc) How much for these? (Seperate prices please)

Hey all Just a bit of a mention, there is a dyno day going to be run at Wollongong Motorsport Centre Details are: WOLLONGONG MOTORSPORT CENTRE units 2/3 195 five islands rd Cringila NSW 2502 Cost $50 for all members 4th Of February 9AM start to gather. If you can PM me back if you're going to attend, then that would be great. Thanks Matt Edit: Follow the redline. As you come around the bend coming close to the two sets of lights (Near the blue X) you NEED to be in the right hand lane, you will then have to turn right at the second set of lights, and drive in through the service station driveway (A pretty easy to get into driveway for a low car) Please don't come screaming through the complex, as there will most likely be a fair few people and cars around. Once into the service station, just keep driving across the concrete, and you'll find us at the end. Just follow the red line.

I'd be in if it's at Picton... I know how hard I can push opening lap on that track... I can still do a beautiful lap in my mind and follow it on the track...

Oran Park has already been sold from what I've heard. It's in the contract to leave them there for another 2 years I think it is, and he's basically being forced out by the government, due to complaints.

Rear wheel alignment is most likely out. Mine did the exact same thing, took it in, got it aligned, it HAD been running 7mm toe in!

That's not too bad of a price really... I had to pay $25 for a bearing once (Small one too!) because the company that used them in there RC cars, decided they had to be said size, and that no one made them, so they were specific to that car!

You can also be blowing black smoke, and still getting a lean AFR if one of the cylinders is not firing correctly. As you have excessive amounts of oxygen exiting the exhaust, hence, it seems "lean" I personally, would not drive the car.

What's oil?

I hate HICAS... Makes the damn car "twitch" when you punt it into a corner quite fast... You end up fighting it the whole way!

Why are you T-d off the BOV? Take it from the line that runs from the intake pipe, to the actuator.

To me, that's a pretty good time. Good reaction time too.

I run 36 PSi in my tyres on the rear and they just "slide" across the rims... But put 38PSi in, and the tyres just fry up on the road! There's no winning! (I took tyre frying, I'd rather it turnt a corner)

If the rear seat is missing, and so are the belts, and your rego states it is a 5 seater, and it's also badged that under the hood, then you can have your registration stripped from the car immediately.

bad ball joint quite possibly.

Remind me J, when we get mine and go to put it on, we do it in the garage with the doors shut right? As for dodgi-ness, I was helping, we went to peel both sides off to try it again, only to find it mutilates the letters... In the end, we had the dodgiest looking "M" at the end of it, hence why most of it got torn off, till someone got convinced to leave it... And it's only around 1CM off centre too!

Just don't bring the thing on boost! My turbo R33 with exhaust, FMIC, a couple of other small things, will do 460km, and used 54litres, Mind you, there was MANY a time I hit redline pushing 12PSi down it's throat, but alot of cruising off boost also. Keep it under vacuum, use the natural "pull" of the motor, and it'll cruise efficiently, generally, when the car goes to "take off" after a couple of seconds, roll off the throttle slightly, or upshift. I keep mine below 2500 RPM for fuel economy. Otherwise, give it aboot full! If worried on fuel economy, buy a 1990 Barina/Swift, drive it daily, get a hypo liner for the weekend warrior work.

No, because now, they own a car outright, in there name, which can be registered and driven around easily, and this guy just got robbed of money. If the car is stolen, the car was stolen and the moment it is spotted by coppers, they're hot on the trail of the car, and will end in a drug bust most likely...

Absolute crap. Mines easy as all hell to slip. Button clutch, 1250 clamp load. Barely needs any throttle to get it moving. Rolls off the mark with basically no more then 1000RPM... Drives like stock really... Well, for me anyway. Just need skill + practice to slip a button clutch.

I'm with PHATR32... Rav 4 = VERY easy to roll. Thin stance, high for there stance, soft as suspension. Lots of body roll... I thought I was going to roll my cousins through an intersection one day... And I was only doing 15km/h! That's how badly they roll over!

Could be your injectors ticking too...

Loctite breaks down under heat. Hence the ease... Also, a rattle gun is NOT the tightest nut doer up there out! Most 3/4" drive breaking bars can do a nut up tighter then a rattle gun. If you can't heat it from outside, heat it from inside... (RUN THE CAR!) Watch out, you might get burnt... But a good breaking bar, and turning it the correct way, will most likely get you off (You can also try tightening by a small little iddy bit before loosening...)