MBS206

I'd be in if it's at Picton... I know how hard I can push opening lap on that track... I can still do a beautiful lap in my mind and follow it on the track...

Oran Park has already been sold from what I've heard. It's in the contract to leave them there for another 2 years I think it is, and he's basically being forced out by the government, due to complaints.

Rear wheel alignment is most likely out. Mine did the exact same thing, took it in, got it aligned, it HAD been running 7mm toe in!

That's not too bad of a price really... I had to pay $25 for a bearing once (Small one too!) because the company that used them in there RC cars, decided they had to be said size, and that no one made them, so they were specific to that car!

You can also be blowing black smoke, and still getting a lean AFR if one of the cylinders is not firing correctly. As you have excessive amounts of oxygen exiting the exhaust, hence, it seems "lean" I personally, would not drive the car.

What's oil?

I hate HICAS... Makes the damn car "twitch" when you punt it into a corner quite fast... You end up fighting it the whole way!

Why are you T-d off the BOV? Take it from the line that runs from the intake pipe, to the actuator.

To me, that's a pretty good time. Good reaction time too.

I run 36 PSi in my tyres on the rear and they just "slide" across the rims... But put 38PSi in, and the tyres just fry up on the road! There's no winning! (I took tyre frying, I'd rather it turnt a corner)

If the rear seat is missing, and so are the belts, and your rego states it is a 5 seater, and it's also badged that under the hood, then you can have your registration stripped from the car immediately.

bad ball joint quite possibly.

Remind me J, when we get mine and go to put it on, we do it in the garage with the doors shut right? As for dodgi-ness, I was helping, we went to peel both sides off to try it again, only to find it mutilates the letters... In the end, we had the dodgiest looking "M" at the end of it, hence why most of it got torn off, till someone got convinced to leave it... And it's only around 1CM off centre too!

Just don't bring the thing on boost! My turbo R33 with exhaust, FMIC, a couple of other small things, will do 460km, and used 54litres, Mind you, there was MANY a time I hit redline pushing 12PSi down it's throat, but alot of cruising off boost also. Keep it under vacuum, use the natural "pull" of the motor, and it'll cruise efficiently, generally, when the car goes to "take off" after a couple of seconds, roll off the throttle slightly, or upshift. I keep mine below 2500 RPM for fuel economy. Otherwise, give it aboot full! If worried on fuel economy, buy a 1990 Barina/Swift, drive it daily, get a hypo liner for the weekend warrior work.

No, because now, they own a car outright, in there name, which can be registered and driven around easily, and this guy just got robbed of money. If the car is stolen, the car was stolen and the moment it is spotted by coppers, they're hot on the trail of the car, and will end in a drug bust most likely...

Absolute crap. Mines easy as all hell to slip. Button clutch, 1250 clamp load. Barely needs any throttle to get it moving. Rolls off the mark with basically no more then 1000RPM... Drives like stock really... Well, for me anyway. Just need skill + practice to slip a button clutch.

I'm with PHATR32... Rav 4 = VERY easy to roll. Thin stance, high for there stance, soft as suspension. Lots of body roll... I thought I was going to roll my cousins through an intersection one day... And I was only doing 15km/h! That's how badly they roll over!

Could be your injectors ticking too...

Loctite breaks down under heat. Hence the ease... Also, a rattle gun is NOT the tightest nut doer up there out! Most 3/4" drive breaking bars can do a nut up tighter then a rattle gun. If you can't heat it from outside, heat it from inside... (RUN THE CAR!) Watch out, you might get burnt... But a good breaking bar, and turning it the correct way, will most likely get you off (You can also try tightening by a small little iddy bit before loosening...)

That's your problem. Nissan give out the wrong plugs.

My experiences from BP Shell Caltex Caltex was the first fuel I used. Returned good economy (380km/45L) with a fair bit of giving it a hit. Was quite happy. I decided to try Shell. Shell: Car feels a little bit more repsonsive on the shell compared to Caltex just before it comes on boost. But, a drop in fuel economy (even when only cruising) BP fuel. Miss fired and drove like shit. Will NEVER put it back in a car I own again! Currently have just thrown a tank of Caltex back in (As local shell was closed at night) and will see the difference in economy. And my Shell is around 2-4C/L cheaper then the Caltex. And over 45/50L that's only a saving of 90Cents - $2 And at $1.20 per litre, I'm only really putting in an extra litre. I'll only get 13 extra kays on the shell once I wack in the "extra" $2... The Caltex I think, will be what I'll be staying on in the future.

Microtech IF your tuner is good at tuning microtechs.

Have you tried to swap the inputs? From what I can gather you've swapped which speaker is on the output, but try swapping the inputs over.

You won't be putting overly too much stress on the box at all. Although, sudden and hard shifts, whilst not slipping the bands, JOLT the bands and cause them to stretch. But where your hard shifts are affecting, are the engine, not overly, but very silghtly, but you're putting ALOT more pressure through the diff/axles etc.

It's a fuse that is hidden under the dash in the dash fuse box. Get a multimeter, and measure the resistance across EACH fuse (Yes, do them all) as soon as one gives a high resistance, you've found the dead fuse.