MBS206

Obviously, since there was an accident, and the police were around you, you should have turnt them off. They're like high beams, if you can see a car in front of you, turn the driving lights off! Also, on a side note, driving lights legally under ADRs shouldn't be able to be turnt on without the high beams being on...

The reason you are benig reamed so hard for you insurance, is your driving record. Although, if your parents are with GIO and have a 60% NCB you can also get this yourself by quoting there policy number...

Ah, that's fair enough then. Just a thought I had, would it be an idea, to add in a brake balance, dial in more rear wheel brake force. From what I've seen/read, when running more rear brakes, yes, the back tyres can become very easy to lock, but when you hit the corner, as you're not loading the front end up as much (You're just putting the weight there, you're not asking the tyre to attempt to slow down as much) you have alot more available grip, and when you start to turn in, since the back end is doing most of the braking it is more "twitchy" and alot more ready to comply with a turn in command (But do it too early and be warned of alot of sideways action) Do you think this would work? I'm just bouncing ideas now off you SK...

Funny, there was actually two monaros out there running 427... Everyone jumps up and down. The needed amount were actually sold (Are in the UK). It's just like one of the cars that ran in the 24 hour bathurst, they sold 12 of it, and the thing was setup, so damn wide, that no one could really overtake it! The 427 that ran, was yes, a MODIFIED C5 engine, renmaed as the C5R, and was due to be released in the HRT 427 being dual built by HSV and HRT, I know people who already had a $25 000 deposit down, the moment it was "announced" but it was later scrapped. The second 427, was a stroked and bored 346CI V8, which DID come from that car originally (It was a bored and stroked Gen3) But hey, everyone breaks/bends the rules, it just seems Holden get slagged off for it when they win, and if they don't, they get called heaps of shit. Just can't please you boys. And the idea of the HRT 427 originally was as a race built car, put it on the track, go racing. But when the deposits for all 200 builds came in, they found out, most people wanted them for road use also, and HSV just couldn't get them to be legal, take the Harness for one, straight out illegal as it was a 5 point (Illegal on the road, maximum of a 3pt is legal) The side intrusion bars were illegal. The exhaust system where it ran was illegal, it didn't meet road going emmisions. The fuel tank... Thousands of things needed changing to be road legal, hence, why it was canned, and the few that were built, were sold to the UK.

I'll be chucking into my liner tomorrow a set of QFM pads. I trialled them before in my Commodore. Great around on the road, good bite when cold, got a heap of temperature into them, never faded. The ones that I ran were good for upto 450Degrees before loosing there major grip, and when they did loose it, it wasn't a major loss (until you REALLY heated them up) I'll be throwing these set into my line tomorrow (Obviously new ones bought for the line) and be buying another step up above that (Rated alot higher temp wise) for track only sessions.

Front: Falken ZIEX ZE326 Rear: Falken FK451 Absolute rubbish these tyres. Just can't put power down through them, they don't handle corners. Grip about the same both wet and dry, I can't say if they're worth buying, as I don't know what they're worth to buy, but they're basically brand new on the car at the moment. I wouldn't even tell my enemy to put them on there car!

And the problem is, he has to be listed as driving the car 90% of the time, which again, boosts the premium right through the roof. It works out cheaper for me to insure my skyline under my name, with my father listed as a 10% driver, then to have him insure it under his name (With brilliant record) and have me listed as a 90% driver. If you list yourself as a minimalist driver, they'll soon find out, when they check out "Hey, Mum/Dad drive there own car to work each day, they possibly couldn't rack up another 1000KM on the weekend, so Son X has to be driving it most of the time." It's blatantly obvious that sort of stuff.

Usually a small tweak here, a small tweak there, gets the car back exactly how you want it. And then again, driver behaviour changes, so in the end, he may like the car to understeer, I know some people who do like this, whilst others prefer the car to majorly oversteer, particularly on throttle (Just how they corner) But generally, it's easier to sort out suspension, on something that will let go easily. Effectively, you'd rather test out how your new intake valve on an indoors fire works when being lit with soft wood, as it lights up easier, but in the end, you'll use hard wood. The reason, it gets to your testing point quicker, and easier, kinda. But the same "reasoning" can be bought across in my personal opinion. But remember, everyone drives there car differently, and hence, we all set them up differently. My biggest theory, is that the ride height is fuxored, secondly, it's AWD, prone to understeer, thirdly, front toe is incorrect. For grip, you want toe in (Grip mid corner) but you loose responsive ness, Toe out gives you responsive ness, but reduces mid corner grip. If my memory serves me right (As I talk in 3mm toe in/out not +3mm), positive toe, is toe out, hence, a very responsive ride, BUT no mid corner grip. And I'd be running as a tester, 0 rear toe, and upto 1mm maximum toe in. (WRX are renowned for having sideways issues if they run any more then 1mm toe out on the rear) But where I start my setup at, I hand it to my wheel alignment specialist, he's worked on enough race cars suspension wise, I'm just going off what he has told me.

I'm in total dis-agreeance here. What you're doing by putting on a stickier tyre, is making the whole lot of the car grip harder. Whilst it grips harder, you FEEL like you're pushing the car as hard as it can, BUT when it comes unstuck, its going to come unstuck in much the same fashion, as it did with shit tyres, BUT, you'll be doing a great deal of knots/hour more then the shit tyre. Sort the suspension out on a low grip tyre. It'll tell you EXACTLY what's wrong in the setup. Once the car is handling how you want, wack on some REALLY grippy tyres. Slam it round the track as quick as possible then. You'll find you'll do a quicker lap time, on the grippy tyres AFTER running on bad tyres tuning the suspension, then what you will by wacking on some uber grippy tyres and doing the same amount of laps. The uber grippy tyres still have the exact same suspension setup, meaning the cars characteristics, are at a higher level, but the coefficient of friction has been improved dramatically, Hence, a greater force is required to break the grip, hence, a higher speed is required, but you'll still reach it. At a higher speed, and you'll understeer. Sort the suspension out so it doesn't understeer, then wack the grippy tyres on.

Hey all. Picking up a 4 point harness on Wednesday, but I'm just wondering, how do I go about mounting it all up? I'll be keeping my back seat IN, and be mounting the main part on the back on the parcel shelf. But how do I mount the rest of it? Thanks Car is an R33 GTS-t Series 1

Got thinner?

Please be aware, the standard nissan oil pressure guage reads in KG/cm^2 not PSi.

Heh... You tell people to "drive a peace of shit" I do mate. I drive a 1988 Nissan Navara, ball joints shot, rust, springs dead in the seat. I drive this thing EVERY day. It's my daily hack. Oh, and I'm 19, and I own a 1994 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t also, as well as a 1994 VR Manual Commodore. Seriously, a Skyline is a HUGELY costly car to run. Mine costs me $273 every two weeks, BEFORE I put rego on the car, BEFORE I put tyres on the car BEFORE I service the car, BEFORE I drive the car. So lets see, tyres are looking at going to cost me around $300 EACH (4 of them, $1200 a year. Rego +Green slip = $1000, $200 servicing cost, $2800 insurance so each year, that's another $2400, so that's another $200 each fortnight... So currently, I'm looking at $473 every two weeks, and hey, I still haven't even STARTED or DRIVEN the car... Can you honestly afford that mate? $236 every week, plus around $70 in fuel... So, can you afford $300 a week, (More for you with insurance) to run the car? I don't think so. I work, full time, in an engineering role, and still have issues with making everything work out (Fuel, rego, insurance, tyres, servicing, my phone, having money left to go out, buying food for the week.) Seriously, think about it financially... I shot myself in the foot really when I bought my skyline, the costs are ASTRONOMICAL! Buy a cheaper to run car, if you only want a looker, get a looker, buy a Commodore or something, Say $9000 on the commodore, $1500 on mags, $3000 on a bodykit. You have there, for $14500 a car that looks good, has just as much go as an N/A R33, and will cost you about $1500 each year to insure, and use less petrol, cheaper tyres, etc. Just think about it logically.

SydneyKid, would you not agree that lowering the rear, more then the front will induce understeer. Every car I've found, that if you drop the rear more then the front, you induce understeer. Would it be more advisable to raise the rear back to it's original position and leave the front DOWN the 5mm from original... So hence, the guy has made the setup worse by is lowering abilities. The ride height front to rear, and overall is as important to the setup as is the toe/camber/caster afterall.

Yeah, the hobby shops in aust are very expensive, considering for diffs transmissions etc, you can have the price and have it at your front door (shipping included) but coming from a hobby shop is hella spensive... But when people are just getting into it, alot of the time it's better to buy local.

Injectors maxing out is my theory.

If it's something like a T28, it would be WAY too small for a 350Chev. I was looking at putting twin T28s on a 231CI (For comparison) was a 3.8L motor, and they would have been WAY too small. Even in twins. Small block I'm assuming would be something like a 253 small block. Look at something like the twin turbo setups from the RB26DETT

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly. The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted. Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop. There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Put a new fuse in. Simple.

There's a place in Newcastle that sells them from memory, and most reputable Hobby Shops (RC Hobby shops) also sell them I'm pretty sure.

ChadR33: Try running Shells 98RON fuel. I threw a tank of BP Ultimate in mine, and it did nothing but misfire, fart cough, popped a flame or two also (When using gears to hold me back) and I got pretty shit economy from it. I have so far found the Shell fuel to be the best (Have run Caltex, BP, and now Shell) Also, someone on here mentioned, if you keep the revs below around 2500RPM when accelerating, fuel consumption drops majorly, but get much above 3000RPM, and the fuel will be used the same basically as if you rev out to like 5500RPM each gear. Hence, I cruise mine, keep the revs down, barely touch the throttle when accelerating. So far this tank (nearly 200KM) I've only hit boost once, and that was only 5PSi (My "low" boost is around 7-9PSi) and that was coming down a short freeway onramp from like 20km/h, and needing to get up to 100km/h to merge into traffic. Normally I sit along way in vacuum even when accelerating (5mmHg is normally my "fast" accelerating vacuum)

I'm running 265 on the rear of mine, and 235 on the front. I get 380km to 45L if I'm just cruising and not caining the living shit out of it. I did 350km to 50L the other week when I was pushing the car for most of the tank. I get very reasonable fuel economy I find, and I'm running fair size tyres. Mind you, most people running tyres that are 17" end up having one of there single tyres, weighing as much as all 4 of mine (Light weight Rims FTW!)

He wasn't pumping throttle I guess.

Rear wobble is most likely a mm or two of toe out, or quite a few mm toe in. Mine used to shake exactly the same. Found out the car was running 3mm rear toe in. And for my all 4 tyres aligned, and suspension/driveline checked, it cost me $50... Don't know why on earth people think 4WS costs more :S My wheel alignment specialist reckons the newer and more "intricate" they get, the easier they are to set up.

Never once heard of an insurance company going for records for stamp duty at the RTA. And you insure it for an "Agreed Value" not what you paid.