MBS206

Stock O2 sensor is only a narrowband. It can only tell the ECU when you're around stoichiometric so at full throttle etc (loaded up) the ECU runs in open loop.

Sounds like your mate is ripping you off. Shouldn't cost much over $100 in parts.

So you start the car of a morning, and it idles at 1000RPM when cold. THEN Once warm it USED to idle around 750RPM? but now it's idling at around 1500RPM? By the sounds of things, as the metals are warming up, they're expanding, which can usually BLOCK air leaks, but it might be causing one for you. Check for vac leaks.

A pod filter, unboxed on any engine is deemed an offence against the epa for the following given reasons by the EPA and Police: 1: Noise Pollution 2: Fume releases 3: Fire hazard That's on an N/A vehicle, a supercharged vehicle, a turbocharged vehicle, a diesel, a car with a FMIC, no IC, or a SMIC. Also, I've had a temp prob running before behind those headlights and measured air temps up above 40degrees celcius. That's a touch hot for my liking personally.

Mis firing VS Boost leak There's a HUGE difference. Mis firing you can feel it jolting the car each time it misses. Boost bleeding off just makes the car feel like the amount of power it has is slowly dropping.

I wouldn't touch it It's had a solid rear hit. Most likely bent chassis (not hard to do in a skyline it seems though) To replace the rear isa "cut and shut" job. Plus everything else. The whole under body seems worked up badly. Seriously, avoid it.

I've seen so many photos of the "feelers" reaching form the ground to the sky. And the amount of energy formed in the lightening causes the air to turn to plasma, it is this plasma path that the lightening strike follows as electricity can't actually jump through air (You get a plasma trail first)

Why couldn't this come up when I had a touch more money?

I've never heard any clutch make any noise whilst fully engaged. If it's slipping, it'll make noise. But once engaged, there's really no moving parts in relation from clutch to flywheel.

Price yet?

Beer Barron. If I'm membered by then, am I still able to come? I've been told I should come along by another member

And then you can sleep in the other half still!

Either map sensor or brake booster.

I'm pretty sure you can since it's not an SAU event, and even SAU don't mind either

a gasket most likely.

AWD

f**k the cannon off That'll cut the noise straight away I went from a massive cannon to a proper muffler on the rear with twin tips (High flow) No change in power, much quieter, no drone

Check for leaking injectors. If the engine won't crank, you could have a cylinder full of fuel, and not enough power to compress it. Pull all of your plugs and check.

Therefore fuel pump most likely isn't going When you turn from ACC to IGN, (ON) can you hear the fuel pump whir for around 3 seconds? Most likely a fuse somewhere, or relay.

Sounds like vac leak to me.

Most places I've spoken to, and sized up, have managed to work out the correct inj size, and they don't like to run over 80% DC at all! They leave 20% for spiking etc, and for other necesities, and since using up to 80%, it makes it easier to tune (Rather then a car that only uses say 40%)

SCHWEET... Brake job anyone?

And most likely, my ECU is stock, and you'll have a graph like I got, where you go back to basically where you started in terms of torque, so why bother...

I'll be there, But, my question is, will there be an oppurtunity for me to say, skip over to a dry patch on the edge and destroy what's left of my old tyres if I have my new ones by then?

sounds like it's mis firing, or is it only sound?