MBS206

Out of the 33s I've driven, none have really performed how you said.Mine slips straight into 5th not a drama, the only gear that is notchy occasionaly is second gear, and it has the syncros dieing on it.

bastard! You bloody bastard! Come and clean my car!!! Make my car fill with dirt after pushing you out... In the words of Luffy "DICKHEAD!" And i'll be there, performing again. As for 80km/h, I was running through there around 70kmk/h pretty sure. So 80 should be possible on my new tyres) And you only get off the circuit when you keep the foot planted in second...

have barely seen any at all!

Hey all Recently fitted some new springs to my R33 GTS-t to raise it's belly off the ground (Was WAY too low) Anyway, now that I've done this, I have a suspension "clunk" issue, mainly from the front drivers side. I've been back under the car with a breaking bar and socket, and everything is as tight as can be, but I took some careful note of bushes etc, and to me, the bush at the bottom of the shock (in the eyelet) seems to have "come out" on both sides and it doesn't look to be sitting on the pin properly. Can this cause my "ka klunk" as I ride over bumps to occur, and what parts should I run out to order to fix it. I'm going away next thursday, and really want this fixed.

Why the hell would you run dimpled and grooved rotors? The cross drilling is for cooling and gas disipation. Having a dimple will do neither. Grooves do not from all the wya to the edge, slots in rotors are to remove gasses away, grooves will not do this. In the end, you end up with a gas pocket. Spend the money and get real slotted and cross drilled rotors. Or personally, I'd just go slotteds. (Seen too many cross drilled rotors crack from the drill points)

Did you add your older girlfriend as well? Also, I keep trying to get my g/f to drive my car and her reply is that she never wants to. "It makes weird noises... And I'd kill her if she crashed it" are her words. I told her if she crashes it, do a bloody good job and right it off so I can get a new one... LOL

Are you hard on the brakes and starting to turn? I find nearly any car does this. And you also said it. You have cheap nankangs. Replace the rubber, you'll have heaps more grip. But you HAVE to back the break pedal off as you start to turn in.

Depending on condition, etc, I may very well be interested (And dollars). I want a car to build up... An N/A is the perfect base for what I want.

Sorry, some how I managed to grab the wrong quote... :S

What revs does it sit at when cold? It could quite be that your cold start valve isn't working properly. And by the sounds of it, a heap of fuel is being dumped in, and the valve is opened, hence, lots of fuel, rich and rough.

You should write articles for the police force. As for using less fuel, I found it the opposite in both my commodore, and my dads commodore, was adding around 1 - 2L of fuel required per 100km. As for not getting done. Ever looked down whilst coming down a hill? I found my car, and also my fathers, loved to just hold the throttle open coming down a hill till your doing around 10-15km/h over the limit, then it'd close the throttle SOME, but not all the way. My uncle also got done for speeding on Cruise. Car set at 100km/h, copper pulled him at 112km/h going UP a hill (Car decided it had slowed a bit, needed more power, so it changed down a gear *auto* and accelerated, to above the limit) I've had it in my old car, and I did use it, but I had to be ever so vigilant, now that the skyline doesn't have it, I get in a car with CC and don't even use it. Also, you shouldn't use cruise in the wet either.

Why? There's no fun in that at all! You won't know what time you really do in "street" trim. Unless you only want to have a "time" that the car "can" run, if it is lighter... At the drags, leave in exactly what you have in on the street. Then you'll know what the car can do on the street, plus, you don't have all that time and effort taking it out, and putting it back in.

I'd been told $150 approx is what you can pay at Just Jap (not by them, but someone who's used them for it)

That's one quite simple. You actually DID increase backpressure with doing that. How you say? It's straight through Quite simply, enlarge the pipe size, gas velocity slows dramatically, manages to cool, and condense, which means it slows even more. And before you all say (But the exhaust gas is always hot at the exit) exhaust temps as they enter the exhaust are over 400degrees celcius (neasured) at idle. So larger pipe, makes gas cool more and slows it, cool gas is more dense (Takes up less space) therefore it condenses more and slows, which makes it harder to push the gas out.

The only way you'll get to having intake temps BELOW ambient is if you're cooling by another means, such as dry ice. Otherwise, the intercooler will actually begin attempting to HEAT the intake air up. An intercooler is just a heat transfer, it transfers from the warmest, to the coldest, as the two temps get closer, the rate of change in temperature with respect to time, becomes significantly less. Hence, the best air intake temp you can get through an air to air intercooler, is ambient.

The issue is, he has technically changed the intake (Yes, by removing the shroud) and thus, it can affect your DB noise reading. Since the cert was done with certain things, the cop is correct in saying that it is null and void. A coppers "defect" is something that they think is illegal/dangerous, and you have to prove to them that it is. Your eng cert is not enough proof, as it was done on X date, it is now Y date, with modifications done that can affect it. If you didn't get fined for anything, and all that you need is a blueslip, it's going to cost you the same amount to fix it if it does or doesn't!

Twin setup... That implies alot of cost. 2 turbos. 2 wastegates etc etc etc. You basically have to double the cost for everything, more plumbing. But, IMO, I still like the idea of a properly setup twin sequential setup, not just twin turbos that are identical.

Is the CAS tight? It might not be on tight enough and the timing is way out. Check your connections on EVERYTHING electrical too. Just unplug them, and plug em back in.

What fuel are you running?

When did this start happening? After some mods?

I will do... Will have to speak to a few more of the guys that deal with that sort of stuff day in, day out at work...

djr, I've seen live fed data (From the ECU) telling me that more throttle is being applied to maintain the same speed up a hill. When I had said earlier you will require more throttle when going up a hill I was meaning that you will require it when cruising, not so much to accelerate up the hill, but to help hold your speed constant Wheni you get your new car, please fit a stock flywheel, do some datalogging up a known hill in top gear, at a set speed, then fit your light weight flywheel (The only change you make) and do that exact same datalogging. Tell me what you see in the throttle position part. As for your calcs, there is something sitting in the back of my mind, that I'm trying to pull forward, it says that your calcs are correct, but there is something that we have not yet taken into account

Wire the fuel pump up on 12V continous power (not from the ECU) Or at least check what the connections on the ecu are doing (You'll need someone to help) So the motor was pulled setup with ECU, Injectors, blah blah blah, and you're just rebuilt the bottom end? What have you done about cams/head? Any porting, larger cams?

Have you tried actually adjusting the fuel and timing settings in the computer. Generally on a fresh motor, if it's been rebuilt with different injectors, cams etc, you'll need to fiddle with the tune to sustain it running. Can you keep it running on the throttle at all?

djr, seriously, have you put a lightened flywheel in your car, and taken it for a drive. I have, the change is ENORMOUS! Acceleration IS affected when going up the hills. If you haven't physically put a lightened flywheel, in your car, and taken it for a drive back to back to compare, then don't spout that I'm wrong. I HAVE a lightened 5KG Chrome Moly flywheel IN my car RIGHT NOW. And you need a fair amount of throttle to get it up a hill, compared to running a stock flywheel. And in 5th gear, a change in 786RPM, approx is a change in 30km/h. So trying to get the same amount of energy up there, in that flywheel, you need to be running 30km/h faster. That's a fair wack more speed needed, even if you take into account everything else like pistons etc. It is proven, day in, day out, in race cars, road cars, all the way through history, the lighter flywheel will be able to accelerate, unmassed alot more quickly, BUT, it will also SLOW a lot more quickly. A larger flywheel, requires more energy to get moving, but once at that RPM, it takes a fair bit more energy to slow down that flywheel. And your 1500KG of weight your trying to PULL, is different to the flywheel you're trying to turn. And if you want to attempt to prove me wrong, firstly go fit a light weight flywheel to your car and you'll find that it isin fact correct what I've said. And within regard to the other message, that was a mixture of bad day + being annoyed with people who've never actually attempted any of this stuff talking from "thought". So I do have to apologise there. I know, I sound agro in some of this, but me = tired, and I'm not trying to be, just difference is I've ran lightened flywheel, and have physically experienced it.