MBS206

Either way, most likely the block is destroyed beyond reuse.

I'd take him, but I wouldn't be allowed him where I am... Edit: Buy a bigger house...

Turn the music down. The guys 200 metres down the road don't want to be able to sing your song. If your stereo is that loud, it is also illegal! When I turn mine up for shits and giggles (Very occasional) it only vibrates the inside mirror, it doesn't twist it around, and I know how solid my bass is, if you're twisting the mirror, turn it down! Basically, it's not the car shaking thats doing it, it's the air movement. I can feel my sub moving all of the air in my car when it's up loud. But hey, my stereo is for me, not the guy driving infront/behind. SO TURN IT DOWN. I don't want to hear your music!

Duncan, let me know what you find out about this sort of setup. I want to setup 2 cameras for incar, and two external. So obviously, will be soon in the want to buy some new cameras too... (Or might run them on a computer... Cheaper for me)

Pull the motor down Only way to tell. If it's corroded, it's a bad engine, basically, throw it away. My uncle bought a 1UZFE and couldn't bore it enough to get rid of pitting that the water did to the engine.

The coolant temp sensor that goes to the ECU is different to the temp sensor that sends to dash. Get a new engine temp sensor for the ECU.

Except that the fins are setup, so that if force is applied on one side, it'll spin and move air, if applied the other way, the air will flow through, but not turn the turbine... Now think about it, air is being forced in, so it can easily blow back out, and put NO force on the turbo to slow it... Some people are smart eh?

AHH! CAPS LOCK IS STUCK ON... @ Gun_metal_gtr32

You say, if you hit someone, it's gonig to cost you $4800 straight up, this is perfectly correct. If someone hits you, you basically pay NOTHING. Now, take a look at that, you DIDN'T get full comp insurance, because you are worried how much you have to pay WHEN you hit someone. Notice the when YOU hit someone, not when they hit you. Hence, you were scared basically, you were the one going to be causing the accident. Hence, you probably shouldn't be driving if you think you'll be the causer. Oh, and when you DO hit another car, have you priced up panels for your car? Try bumpers and bonnets, yet alone straightening the chassis. Get a small tap in the rear end, and the other guy drives off, you'll be left needing a cut and shut if he gets the rear guard at all. You can't unbolt alot of panels off a skyline. If you're worried how much it'll cost you when you hit someone, you don't deserve to be driving, Take more care, be more alert, get full comp for the day someone uninsured hits you.

There is a way to get back your low down torque. It's called tuning. Although your exhaust with a 3" is still aiming at a higher rev range. Aimed at the guy who ran with no exhaust: Dial in around 4 degrees or so MORE timing down low, and a touch more fuel, and you'll have your torque back.

Supposedly you just got a HR licence, but you won't get an MR? MR comes before HR... Unless you're talking MC and HC...

Don't know my actual reading, but I used to get 230KM to the halfway mark, around town. Did a trip up the freeway yesterday, go home, sitting at 190km, and it's only on the 3/4 mark. So used half the fuel, for basically the same, and I generally get 12:/100 around town, so that's looking at around 6-8L/100KM on the freeway. Damn good if you ask me (Considering if I felt like it, 6 or so seconds on full throttle in 5th gear has me seeing 170 odd KM/H if I need to overtake on a country highway.

Why do you want a car earth on the door handle? The whole car is one big metallic object. If you get out, and the first thing you touch is the bonnet, it will zap you! I'll get you some photos tomorrow from sitting in a car behind mine, and you can't see my strap. It's coming off the diff, very hard to see.

The factor is, the type of rubbers in the tyre doesn't allow the car to discharge at all. Well, actually, if you notice, it's normally the spark jumping from YOU TO the car... This tells us, the electrons (The part of moving electricity) is moving from person, to car. Hence, we have more electrons in us, then what the car has. Hence, our body has more electrons in it. What this tells us, is the car is actually insulated from earth. Hence, we are moving electrons from the earth/us, back into the vehicle to create an equalisation Hence, when you jump out, and make a connection, you get zapped. BUT, if you connect to the car first, and then connect to earth, you don't feel your foot being zapped (Due to large surface area etc) Hence, GRAB THE CAR FIRST, THEN step out. Or, fit an earth strap. My R33 has a strap, and you can barely see it at all, unless you look under the car. Why bother making something new and expensive, when there is a cheaper, easier alternative available.

It surpises me how quickly people jump up and say openly on a forum how to break into a car.

For the exhaust on a turbo. I'm running stock turbo, cat, rear muffler only. It's not over loud at all. Quite bearable, and legal (AFAIK) As for the turbo thing, I know they're a totally different kettle of fish when it comes to choosing an exhaust pipe (As they pump a shitload more air/fuel through) and hence, I shall not comment. As for an N/A 2.5L, it has been proven, even on a 3.8L commodore motor, that 3" is just too big and shifts the power band too far up out of the motors rev range, just as it has here, on the 2.5L motor.

Ha ha ha, at certain places my dad goes "I know I can park closer in a normal parking spot..." But at certain places he uses them, other times he parks like normal.

Converting from HP to KW, is the exact same formula, whether the power is measured at the wheels, fly, gearbox, wherever... KW = 0.746 * HP If the HP is measured at the wheels, the KW figure, is at the wheels, if the HP is measured at the fly, the KW figure is from the fly.

Just as illegal as not driving with them at all. A P-Plate must be clearly visible from 25metres away from the vehicle, when viewed from the front, or the rear, hence, why I can't put my green P in the rear window of the line. The window is too far tilted, especially with really dark tint (Legal tint) As for the handicap thing. GET THE HELL OUT OF IT! I'm sick and tired of going to the shops with my dad or what ever, and some soft cock P-plater is parked in the disabled spot and he can't use it (He is disabled!) Walk FFS! You are fully bodily abled! Although, you will never get the fine in the mail at all. Also, copper is technically never off duty. They're a civil servant IIRC, meaning, they're always on call.

If you feel like it, you could quite easily hook it upto an aftermarket radio if you're handy with electronics. Basically, if the radio has a remote control, you need to pull the remote apart, join some wires either side of the (Forward/Back) buttons so that they use switches on the dash. Then, desolder the IR sender, and attach a long cable to it. Now, mount the IR sender up in the roof (Aimed at HU), hide the remote behind the dash and use the buttons away. Obviously that's a "brief" over view, if you don't understand what to do once the remote isp ulled apart, this job isn't for you.

760mmHg is more vacuum then 580mmHg, you may have extra electrical loads on the motor (Fan etc) hence, the ECU adds up slight revs, and the vacuum drops (As if the throttle is opened) after sitting for a while, does the vacuum go down again? I've been told it's vacuum leaks, (As my car also does it) and the needing to pump the throttle is to get the air to go through the AFM, instead of the leak.

The turbo on a turbo car acts as an extra muffler. You will find this is why the turbo cars really only run a cat, and single muffler, whereas, alot of N/A cars run twin, even triple mufflers. The exhaust pipe is WAY too big for your useable rev range. The larger the exhaust pipe, (Once no longer a restriction) the further up the rev range your power band becomes as the pipe enters it's efficiency range. As you've noticed, it's bogging on an upshift, as you are WELL out of your power band. Other things that change your power band are the diameter of your primarys, and the length/diameter on your secondarys (On the headers). Change the whole system to a 2.5" system, get a nicer note from it, and gain your low down power back. As to how much the exhaust gasses cool down. Go for a hard run in your car, now measure the manifold temperature, then measure the exhaust tip temperature. The tip will be WAY colder, so a shit load of heat is being pulled out of the gasses right near the start. Exhaust gas temps drop dramatically as you head away from the engine. 3" Exhaust system, 3 meters long, approx 1.367M^3 2.5" Exhaust system, 3 meters long, approx 0.945M^3 pV = u (moles)8.3144*(273+C) 100*2.5=U*8.3144*303 u = 0.1mole air. Exhaust temp, measured an an EF Falcon, at cat of approx 400degrees. 100V = 0.1*8.3144*673 V = 5.59L 1 litre = 1/1000th of a cubic metre 0.00559 Metres Cubed. Hence, at 7000RPM, 58.3 times the motor gets filled per second completely. Hence, 0.32M^3 of gas is expelled per second. Hence, on a 2.5" system, it takes 2.95seconds for the gas to empty, On a 3" system it takes 4.27 seconds to evacuate. And at 3000RPM, 25 times per second completely filled. 0.14M^3 of gas is expelled per second. On 2.5" system: 6.5second On a 3" system: 9.2 seconds Now, Don't ask me what I was trying to prove when I started those calculations, except now we know how long it takes to get the exhaust gasses out (If the exhaust IS 3 metres long, and 3" all the way. But, you can see, that's a HUGE amount of time at 3000RPM for the exhaust to take to get out (And plenty of time to loose temperature, contract in volume, and slow down even further (As all of the space is required to be filled in that exhaust *Even though there is "vacuums" in the exhaust, this is equallised by "Positive pressure" to create an equilibrium of pressure when added together*) Also, those calcs were done at WOT. (Hence, 100KPA used for pressure) Basically, I think that's showing, a 3" pipe is WAY Too big! And a drop in 17% of the diameter, brings down the time the gas takes to get to be only 70% of the original (When at 3") hence, a 17% drop, created a 30% gain in time to get out.

Okay, I might as well jump into this thread instead of starting a new one. My R33 Series 1 aerial is ALWAYS up... It won't come down. Now, I thought the Green/Red would have been connected to the constant 12V, as even when the car is off, it stays up... Problem is, I can't find a single Green/Red cable, except one that is connected to nothing, but also has silver dots on it... My other issue is, which is the illumination wire? I can't manually turn my headunit to dim, I need this wire, or does it (the illumination wire from dash) just go High (12V) when the headlights go on?

I love RNP from Wollongong upto Sutherland... I'd never done the whole trip before until like 3 days ago, I used to bail out at Waterfall... Love the top half of that run. Most of it is done in 2nd/3rd gear (Not booting, just "spiritedly" using upto around 1/4 throttle... Then get out onto the fast moving corners, then back into the slow stuff as you near Sutherland... Mad fun! I had a car see me coming through a few corners and as I approached, they pulled over, then pulled back out... LOL... I think hitting some of those corners at the speed limit worries some of the public... :S

When you open the door, keep a hold of it (As if you would if another car was parked closely) but hold on to the END of the door, so that you're touching metal, then stick your foot on the ground. No more zappy... I have to get back into this habit... Both my cars have earth straps (Can't see them though) so I got out of the habit, and now I get booted in every friends car!