MBS206

My R33 is really kicking me hard in the pants at 2500RPM and it's running FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, and a lightened flywheel. Compared to a mates old one, (Stock R33) mine seem to roll out of corners on less throttle quicker then his would. Putting it down to the flywheel. Oh, and 10PSi of boost. But I'm talking about still being in vacuum response out of corners. Even when just lightly cruising in vacuum I can feel the turbo hitting efficiency from 2500RPM and I'm having to ease the throttle off to stop the car taking off up the road.

So you just ran an external oil feed upto the VCT then Craved? Or is that a return?

I'd also say look into the Adaptronic. Will be having mine fitted and tuned very soon.

A larger pipe means the turbo has to supply more air to get up to pressure. So going to a larger piper actually increases turbo lag.

100% in. Let me know when $$$ are needed.

I'm not reading 260 pages worth of stuff, when from what I've read so far of it (about 10-15 pages in) is mainly people going "OMG, that's great, I plan to do that too" It seems more of an RB30 chatter then a technical guide

So does anyone have a page that i cna look at to see how to setup the VCT properly.

Datalogit costs money AFAIK Why would I want to spend EVEN MORE on an aftermarket ECU to tune it? Tuning software should be free! You can DL Microtech, Haltech, LINK (IIRC) Wolf, Adaptronic. It's all free. I'm not paying $1000 for an ECU, then having ot pay more for software, what a ripoff idea! When you buy an aftermarket ECU, everything to tune it should be supplied (Or be readily available for free)

Has anyone managed to set the VCT up yet on the RB30/25 combo?

Corinne says: As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. - That's because you can't tune them properly wink.gif You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up. That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC - SAFC's are shit to tune.. they are very rough.. you can never get those flat spots out of them. Corrine, PFC are frigging annoying to tune off of that little hand controller, especially when attempting to use map tracer at the same time to look where the engine is sitting, and then adjusting that! And I never said the SAFC was good, I said it was possible he had lost his map from it.

I have the exact same issue. Especially the reversing and then braking issue. My wheel alignment guy found the problem. My front upper control arm bush was shot, allowing the control arm to float backwards and forwards into the car body. He noticed it via the tiny amount of rust where it was hitting and slight scraping/ding.

17mm Hg, my 33 idles at 20 - 21 mm Hg, and so do a shit load others I've seen... Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere personally. Also, ditch all the little tuneable things, and get one big tuneable thing. As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up. That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC

I might meet you guys there if I remember.

If you still have motor, box, ecu and loom when you're about to send it to the wreckers, let me know.

I'll rebuild it for $2000. *Gets out sledgehammer, gaffer tape, super glue and 100 sheets of paper for gasket material*

Clamping brake lines, just like fuel lines can be dangerous. They are known to split. Personally, if you're going to clamp them, be prepared to replace them. As for the shims. They are only used to prevent brake squeel. There's no worry at all if you don't run them.

How much boost are you running? Does the GTSlink only run one rev limiter? There's no soft limiter? No boost cut? No flat shift limiter? When it hits the "rev limit" (What you're currently experiencing) is it like a miss fire? If it's getting richer and richer, why don't you try leaning it out? ( by rich I'm assuming you're talking 10:1 or 11:1)

Intake plenum with throttle bodies sold with the head I'm guessing?

Targa Tas

srs. coilovers (good ones) are often worth a mint.

Hey all I need to find somewhere that does the front, passenger side, upper control arm, forward bush, where the control arm goes onto the car body. My bush has decided to die, enabling the upper control arm to "float" forwards and backwards. I have been quoted $200 for this bush alone, from pedders. And find this an unbeleiveable price. So, are there any others?

Sounds like crap tyres. I'm running a GTS-t R33 with GTS4 springs in it. So stiffer springs in the front, which will create more understeer then stock springs. And it only MILDLY understeers. To me, it also sounds like poor driving (I'm not having a go, I used to do it too) It sounds like your starting to feather the throttle way to early (I internally yell at myself everytime I take a corner so that I don't do it) As you start to feather that throttle, you're lifting weight off the front tyres. Which is reducing traction. Keep off the throttle till you're through the corner further, wait until you can SEE where you want to go, and then start to wind the throttle open. And no, more throttle does NOT equal oversteer. Go do a skid pan day. It lowers the grip limits immensely (On concrete) and it shows you exactly how the car handles under breaking and stepping on the throttle and different amounts of steering (No, more steering won't make you turn in further all the time!) But a start: Get some grippy tyres.

To test it, you really need the car to be misbehaving under "normal" conditions to begin with.

Without viewing video. I'm thinking: Remote turbo location. Somewhere near the rear of the car. Think lag. Cops will just follow long piping and find it. Plus your car is turbo from factory I'm assuming (GTS-t) so if you take the turbo off, the car is STILL on the banned list (As all of a sudden you've done an engine performance modification.)

The whole in the boost controller, is to allow air to escape when you close the throttle. This then allows the wastegate to close again. Also, if your boost is dropping 5PSi, it isn't the hole doing that. That's ALOT of pressure to loose through a tiny hole. By a 5psi drop, the spring and ball should have closed, all air should vent out, allowing the wastegate to close, and boost to climb again. It sounds more like your turbo can't keep up.