MBS206

The aftermarket boost controller, should be able to get boost BELOW 7PSi, if installed correctly. The factory actuator is only a 3PSi setup. The question is, did you remove the factory solenoid? Also, have you removed the ball and spring from the Turbo Smart tee-piece? Those boost controllers aren't that great... I ran one, switched for the little $20 boost controller and haven't looked back!

There's a system like this out at the moment. And it's also an immobiliser/alarm. You can SMS it to immobilise or lock the car. Get position via SMS of the car, or jump on the net, and view a map of where the car is. The downside, the system is around $1000 (But, it's also an integrated alarm/immobiliser) and you can remotely check status of the car, and arm/disarm features. So full alarm+immobiliser, with tracking... Can't remember name atm... :S Also, pre paid isn't recommend by alot of people, as you need to keep getting access to the phone to recharge it (Or some you can call up and do it with an operator) but again, plan is easier, as you know it won't run out of credit.

Mine gets that same pop from up near the turbo (I know why mine sounds from up there though... ) And it's nothing to worry about. It's just the normal backfire.

ECU is having a hissy fit as you're getting more air then what it should

Ah dood... It's actually the Aussies who pronounce Nissan incorrectly. It is properly pronounced neesssaaan... Ni being pronounced knee. ssan being pronounced saaaan (or sarn, or if you ever learnt japanese in high school... Son)

It's most likely detonating. They run more aggressive timing as you're building boost. Get it on the dyno, get it checked.

Rich and retard DOES NOT "richen" the fuel up. It only retards ignition. In fact, on my dyno graph with stock ecu, when I hit R&R my AFR leaned off slightly (Headed back to a nice 11.5:1) Just rips timing back to around 6-8 degrees

Compression check. Also, oil is not conductive.

Why a larger exhaust then inlet?

Could be waste gates stuck open Boost leak Turbo not spooling properly. Blocked IC pipe Collapsed cat.

Don't wanna get your blouse dirty Nancy?

Or the motor didn't have any water in it, to heat up, to get the thermo to open... If the thermo is stuck shut, the pipe that flows from pump to thermo will go rock hard. And if you take the radiator cap off, let it warm up, and then turn it off, it'll normally spew coolant back out (Actually EJECT IT outta the cap opening)

Start listening to your wife. Stop thinking.

Veyron = 407km/h proven on Top Gear.

WogsRus, there's nothing "wrong" with your engine. Although, compression should be at 165PSi from all research and testing I've done. So you've just got an even wearing engine.

Gear ratios as well... Set 1st to 5th rather close for huge acceleration, once you hit top gear, it's just long legged to rev like abitch!

Tiniest bit of blow by. About average for a good condition engine of it's age. Wait until you hit 70PSi and get the nice rough idle, then you know what low comp is...

Way to bump a thread bat man.

To check for broken welds, at the point it normally snaps, is best done with the dash partly out. Pull the stereo surround out. Then remove the speedo/tacho cluster. You'll be able to see the top of the fire wall now. Sit in the drivers seat and put your foot on the clutch. Did anything visible through the top just move? If it did, that's most likely the broken part, as it normally doesn't move up there... I snapped mine 3 weeks ago and had to reweld it.

Stock intercooler is a restrictive piece of junk that doesn't really cool anything down (Good at heat soaking) So really, no, I wouldn't be calling it safe. With exhaust, FMIC, boost and tune, the car will be TOTALLY different for you. FMIC kit is like $300 - $400 Fit yourself. Get a boost controller, (Those $22 ones are great!) Then get a second hand SAFC2 and tune it. All for under $1100 if you do stuff yourself (Dyno it to tune it though)

If you have thoughts of putting a FMIC on, do it before you do the SAFC, you'll only have to retune afterwards otherwise. Also, boost it up before you get it tuned (Boost to a happy level, around 10PSi should be plenty) Then tune it.

When you're hung like GTST, you don't need support...

Missfire when? At idle? Full throttle low rpm Full throttle high rpm low rpm low throttle? Where, what how? I've had engines "miss" at idle due to low compression on a cylinder.

Standard

FMIC Suspension/Brakes