MBS206

Changed your driving style today? Sprited driving? Could also be dirty AFM, bad oxygen sensor. Probably a few others things I can't think of, but I'd be replacing the O2 sensor, and cleaning AFM straight away.

Item: R33 RB25DET Turbo Back Exhaust Age: I'm not sure, probably 2 years old. Condition: Good condition. No holes, or rust Price: $600 To Fit: R33 RB25DET Location: Wollongong, NSW Comments: This exhaust is off my old RB25DET engine, when I put the RB30DET in, I have had a completely custom built exhaust made up, as such, this will bolt COMPLETELY into your car. No worries. It is a full turbo back exhaust, and has passed noise level tests on my car (Rated at 88/89DBa) has a very nice deep note. Cat, 4" hotdog mid muffler, Oval stainless steel rear muffler with twin tips. Item: R33 RB25DET motor Age: 14 Y/O Condition: Has issues. Blows alot of smoke, probably wants a rebuild. Minimum it might just be a BHG, but it is also lacking compression on cyl 3 (70PSi) all other cylinders were at ~150PSi Price: $1000 To Fit: R33 Series 1 Location: Wollongong, NSW Comments:Motor comes with every thing except for: Engine mounts, oil/coolant heat transfer, coil packs, ignition box that sits on top of coil packs, power steer pump or bracket, alternator, starter, flywheel, air conditioner, fan. Needs new harmonic balancer too. The turbo will be sold with this motor. Or I may seperate. Contact: 0406 962 347. Please SMS me, as most of the time I have very poor reception, or I'm at work/uni (Which I generall have bad reception at) I will reply to SMS immediately, or I will call you as soon as I have a chance to. You may also PM me, but phone is by far quickest.

I have a "no name" exhaust that flows really well that I'm about to advertise for sale. Has dump pipe and all. Came in at 88/89DBa (Did 4 readings) Will bolt straight on. PM me if interested (I probably won't see this thread again, so PM me about it)

What are you? A pussy? Dodging random wildlife all adds to the spice, as well as having no other cars on the road what so ever! 26mins from Bald Hill to Sutherland/Loftus end WITH from 1/4 way between waterfall to loftus end!

If you just bolt from one to the other, excluding a tune, turbo manifolds, you're just looking at gaskets, so probably around $1000 to have a safe amount. But then remember, you also have the issue of needing new injectors, if you get a new turbo, will it be internal or external gated? Manifold cost? Tune? I've spent around $7000 on mine so far, and I haven't yet even started it (It hasn't even got the exhaust on yet! Although, it's currently being built...) But mine was $3000 for motor, about $1200 on fuel system, $1200 on exhaust, $1000 on mani + turbo, and then theres random shit I've forgotten also! Like the $700 waste gate... etc etc... And it still isn't even startable!!!

Possible to change whole fuel rail from the 25DET to the 25DE (R32 25DE that is)Edit: No, it is not possible to do a direct swap. Found out today.

So a set of SARD 550CC injectors for an RB25DET, won't fit an RB25DE from an R32 head?

If you go through, and search for it, you'll find that it doesn't actually state HOW to lower it.Everyone claims to "lower" the motor 15mm on the drivers side, 12mm on the passenger. But, they don't say how or WHERE these measurements are from. Is that nock 15mm off the bottom of the mount? Is it make the engine physically sit 15mm lower (Which removing 15mm square off the bottom of the mount won't do) How exactly is it meant to be done? At the moment, after measuring a few things, I'm just going to remove the strut brace.

ebc greenstuff style pads are known for chewing rotors. hence why the DBA rotors are being eaten out and "thinning" For street, look for the QFM pads.

IBTL @ teh munkey...

I'll give you 10 cents if you blow your motor...

It's not just the 10 000 and 100 000 marker, it's all of them don't line up. My R33 has them all over the place, it's the easiest way to spot it (Unless digital dash) But hell, don't judge a car on it's kays, judge it on its condition.

So, are people actually going to answer the question, not give bullshit responses? How exactly can you fit the RB25/30 into the R33 GTS-t WITH a strut brace fitted, and NO, I'm not putting on a new plenum.

Alrighty guys, Just went through the RB30DET faq again. And I need to know HOW to lower the motor the 12 and 15 mm each side as required when running the stock 25 inlet mani. Is it a matter of pulling the mounts out, and shaving 15mm off the bottom of each, or what?

I think the whole thing is, he might want to build a non-interference motor incase the timing belt lets go...

Smooth curves usually... It's got have looks, either smooth and fast flowing, or it has to have a very mean presence on the road. That, and it has to have either sheer muscle, to tear the doors off of nearly anything in a straight line, or a good broad range of torque across nearly the whole reve range, with a very refined suspension setup. RWD, as I'm anti FWD and anti AWD, traction control and launch control for fun, and shits and giggles, but purely, turn them off most of the time to have some real fun. Edit: And most of the time, I find the electrical gizmos are a bitch to learn to drive with. They interupt what you expect, so you have to learn that very car to take it to its realy high limits.

I have an engine currently coming from Rockhampton, at the moment it's around Brisbane, be in Sydney on Monday. I told them 400KG as it's coming with a gearbox. Put it on a pallete of 1200*1200 with a given height of 1000 if they ask for one. Can't help you with shipping companies, as I had ALOT of trouble finding one, and it was only for my Dad who rang a friend from QLD that we managed to secure a good deal and great service on moving my motor.

I have issues of blow by (MAJORLY BAD blow by) at the moment, and it causes this smell dramatically. If it's an oil issue, track it down, fix it. Everytime you smell it, you're burning oil from some where. It might just be that a gasket has gone, or, with an increase in exhaust flow and higher boost, you have more blow by, and a catch can could fix it.

IT DOES NOT TRY AND SPIN IT THE OPPOSITE WAY!!! Turbo fins are setup uni directional. Spin the compressor one direction, air will move through it. Spin it the opposite, the air doesn't get moved through it. The same applies if you blow air through it, it'll spin one way, blow it the opposite, it won't. The issue of turbos slowing down, is you get a large pressure build up between the turbo and throttle, if your pressure source, for your wastegate, is pre-throttle body, the wastegate remains open, but your turbo has less gas flowing through it, and the majority of what exits the motor, is headed down the wastegate anyway, so the turbo slows down that way. Take the pressure source post-throttle, and you're fine. edit: On a motor running an AFM, you will get "double counts" of air as it reverts through the intake, and you'll get double the amount of fuel, On an aftermarket ECU, you can tune this issue out to a fair degree, on a factory car ecu car, you'll have stalling issues. Throw an ECU on that makes the AFM just a piece of pipe (IE, convert to MAP) you won't have an issue.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to find out where you got it from, LOL, I was more thinking allowed, trying to get a bit of discussion happening on it, I understand at a fairly good level how nitrous oxide works, but, I don't know the very fine details (like, how it's filled etc, air:n2o ratio etc) I'll have to do some research on it. One, slightly off topic question, but what is your fuel economy like in L/100KM?

Thanks for the response Cara. So, one last question, how long does a bottle last you of just doing runs (No purging)? Have you tested this yet? The other thing is, I'm struggling with the concept of having an issue of a bottle sitting around for a year. Nitrous Oxide is rather stable, and it takes extreme heat and pressure to break down, so, there shouldn't be an issue, in a completely sealed gas bottle, sitting around for a year. If it were not filled correctly, then I could understand. Edit: Isn't the bottle ONLY filled with Nitrous Oxide as well, otherwise different mixtures from different places (Air to nitrous oxide) could cause you grief with mixtures changing etc.

From what I read, it was a full bottle, and had just been sitting for a year...

Gotta come back to this.Cara has found, she gets 5 dyno runs, and a few purges, and she's out. But you claim 200seconds she should be getting, so lets say she got 8 dyno runs without purging, 25 seconds on the dyno seems aVERY long time, especially seeing how she was activating it at basically the halfway point of the RPM, so 40-50odd seconds for a dyno run... One of you isn't adding up. Adding to the full throttle power, that's the problem, Cara may make 170RWKW, but it's only capable of making it at flat stick, back off a bit, nitrous cuts out, she drops "50hp" Back off in a Turbo R33, and you might drop 5-10KW. The turbo is just WAY more useable on the circuit in its power delivery. The turbo would be way more driveable, with no massive "kick" as you go from from nearly full throttle, to full throttle, a turbo can feed the power on alot nicer then what will occur. So basically, Cara can only pick up full throttle on the track once in a straight line, or fear spinning off with a sudden 50HP jump in power. The whole problem with you basis of Cara's car being able to "maul" a stock R33 on a circuit (And we'll see what times she manages at the drags before commenting further) is that she has good linear power change, between part throttle, and full throttle. Most race tracks are driven at part throttle, with full throttle really only being used on straight aways, which on most Aust tracks is just the main straight (Yes, small straights between corners, but even those you have to balance on the throttle alot) Cara, also, so far, how much has the Nitrous kit cost you (Rough price), and how much does it cost each time you need to refill?

Loosing the inertia is a good thing. Would have REALLY helped the response from the NA. And yes, I'm being DEADLY serious.

I've done the exact same thing, back to back, with my car, without touching a thing. It's just how the dyno calcs to give minor changes.