MBS206

IBTL @ teh munkey...

I'll give you 10 cents if you blow your motor...

It's not just the 10 000 and 100 000 marker, it's all of them don't line up. My R33 has them all over the place, it's the easiest way to spot it (Unless digital dash) But hell, don't judge a car on it's kays, judge it on its condition.

So, are people actually going to answer the question, not give bullshit responses? How exactly can you fit the RB25/30 into the R33 GTS-t WITH a strut brace fitted, and NO, I'm not putting on a new plenum.

Alrighty guys, Just went through the RB30DET faq again. And I need to know HOW to lower the motor the 12 and 15 mm each side as required when running the stock 25 inlet mani. Is it a matter of pulling the mounts out, and shaving 15mm off the bottom of each, or what?

I think the whole thing is, he might want to build a non-interference motor incase the timing belt lets go...

Smooth curves usually... It's got have looks, either smooth and fast flowing, or it has to have a very mean presence on the road. That, and it has to have either sheer muscle, to tear the doors off of nearly anything in a straight line, or a good broad range of torque across nearly the whole reve range, with a very refined suspension setup. RWD, as I'm anti FWD and anti AWD, traction control and launch control for fun, and shits and giggles, but purely, turn them off most of the time to have some real fun. Edit: And most of the time, I find the electrical gizmos are a bitch to learn to drive with. They interupt what you expect, so you have to learn that very car to take it to its realy high limits.

I have an engine currently coming from Rockhampton, at the moment it's around Brisbane, be in Sydney on Monday. I told them 400KG as it's coming with a gearbox. Put it on a pallete of 1200*1200 with a given height of 1000 if they ask for one. Can't help you with shipping companies, as I had ALOT of trouble finding one, and it was only for my Dad who rang a friend from QLD that we managed to secure a good deal and great service on moving my motor.

I have issues of blow by (MAJORLY BAD blow by) at the moment, and it causes this smell dramatically. If it's an oil issue, track it down, fix it. Everytime you smell it, you're burning oil from some where. It might just be that a gasket has gone, or, with an increase in exhaust flow and higher boost, you have more blow by, and a catch can could fix it.

IT DOES NOT TRY AND SPIN IT THE OPPOSITE WAY!!! Turbo fins are setup uni directional. Spin the compressor one direction, air will move through it. Spin it the opposite, the air doesn't get moved through it. The same applies if you blow air through it, it'll spin one way, blow it the opposite, it won't. The issue of turbos slowing down, is you get a large pressure build up between the turbo and throttle, if your pressure source, for your wastegate, is pre-throttle body, the wastegate remains open, but your turbo has less gas flowing through it, and the majority of what exits the motor, is headed down the wastegate anyway, so the turbo slows down that way. Take the pressure source post-throttle, and you're fine. edit: On a motor running an AFM, you will get "double counts" of air as it reverts through the intake, and you'll get double the amount of fuel, On an aftermarket ECU, you can tune this issue out to a fair degree, on a factory car ecu car, you'll have stalling issues. Throw an ECU on that makes the AFM just a piece of pipe (IE, convert to MAP) you won't have an issue.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to find out where you got it from, LOL, I was more thinking allowed, trying to get a bit of discussion happening on it, I understand at a fairly good level how nitrous oxide works, but, I don't know the very fine details (like, how it's filled etc, air:n2o ratio etc) I'll have to do some research on it. One, slightly off topic question, but what is your fuel economy like in L/100KM?

Thanks for the response Cara. So, one last question, how long does a bottle last you of just doing runs (No purging)? Have you tested this yet? The other thing is, I'm struggling with the concept of having an issue of a bottle sitting around for a year. Nitrous Oxide is rather stable, and it takes extreme heat and pressure to break down, so, there shouldn't be an issue, in a completely sealed gas bottle, sitting around for a year. If it were not filled correctly, then I could understand. Edit: Isn't the bottle ONLY filled with Nitrous Oxide as well, otherwise different mixtures from different places (Air to nitrous oxide) could cause you grief with mixtures changing etc.

From what I read, it was a full bottle, and had just been sitting for a year...

Gotta come back to this.Cara has found, she gets 5 dyno runs, and a few purges, and she's out. But you claim 200seconds she should be getting, so lets say she got 8 dyno runs without purging, 25 seconds on the dyno seems aVERY long time, especially seeing how she was activating it at basically the halfway point of the RPM, so 40-50odd seconds for a dyno run... One of you isn't adding up. Adding to the full throttle power, that's the problem, Cara may make 170RWKW, but it's only capable of making it at flat stick, back off a bit, nitrous cuts out, she drops "50hp" Back off in a Turbo R33, and you might drop 5-10KW. The turbo is just WAY more useable on the circuit in its power delivery. The turbo would be way more driveable, with no massive "kick" as you go from from nearly full throttle, to full throttle, a turbo can feed the power on alot nicer then what will occur. So basically, Cara can only pick up full throttle on the track once in a straight line, or fear spinning off with a sudden 50HP jump in power. The whole problem with you basis of Cara's car being able to "maul" a stock R33 on a circuit (And we'll see what times she manages at the drags before commenting further) is that she has good linear power change, between part throttle, and full throttle. Most race tracks are driven at part throttle, with full throttle really only being used on straight aways, which on most Aust tracks is just the main straight (Yes, small straights between corners, but even those you have to balance on the throttle alot) Cara, also, so far, how much has the Nitrous kit cost you (Rough price), and how much does it cost each time you need to refill?

Loosing the inertia is a good thing. Would have REALLY helped the response from the NA. And yes, I'm being DEADLY serious.

I've done the exact same thing, back to back, with my car, without touching a thing. It's just how the dyno calcs to give minor changes.

My 33 is legal volume, but has a rumble to it, it sets off alarms, even when you first start it up, if it's beside a car with a sensitive shock sensor, it sets them all. It's not the loudness, but the deepness that sets the alarm off.

Personally, I wouldn't be claiming the MissR34 will be "mauling" them. I beleive Adrian was doing Mid 12s, day in, day out, in an R33 GTS-t on the stock turbo. With a 75HP hit of nitrous. I don't see an NA matching those times with no where near the grunt. And of 3 runs I saw that car do, they were all with 0.5 seconds of each other... You can't say he's a shit driver... And personally, I'd be finding a new tuner... That power curve is VERY up and down... It's almost like a stock ECU in an overboosted GTS-t Also, most people can't match factory claimed times, as generally factory times are run on PERFECT days, with PERFECT drivers, on EXTREMELY grippy tyres, with an extensively well prepped track. That, and your average driver, isn't a race car driver, and they won't get everything perfect, hence they'll run "slow" Edit: Let's take this to the circuit... Then see who gets mauled

Your low readings initially, are due to a poor dyno operator. Your high reading was run in the correct mode. Shoot_6 Your low readings were run in Shoot_4 YES, it DOES make a HUGE difference. Personally, put it down the quarter If it REALLY has 170RWKW, you should net a flat 14. Also, if you made 5 dyno runs, and some purging, I'd say you're going to make a massive amount of 2 drag runs before running out... 5 pulls in 4th, would be a bit more then having to go through the 4 gears down the quarter, enough that you could just do it twice. On the street, this isn't going to be useful to you if you plan to have a "toy" with some cars, as you'll get two good hits, and be all out if you're running it. OR You'll run someone on the track, just beat them, and all of a sudden, they're all over you on the road. Also only useful for drag racing really. Also, I'd be fairly shitted off with that torque curve being so rough... What're they doing with fuelling and timing?

Go out there, and take a few slow laps to learn the track. Basically, use the first session to suss the track out, don't try and break the lap record, you'll just end in the kitty litter. So don't go flat out, nice and easy first session. Come back in, think over what you know of the track now. Go out. Rip it up. Each time you come in, think over what you've learnt about the corners.

pics no work

Cubes, honestly, I can't tell you what's in there at the moment The clutch was in the car when I bought it. My motor and gearbox is coming out not this thursday, but the one after, so I'll get some photos up then. I used to have the brand of clutch and flywheel, but I forgot them.

Might wanna get that checked...Every tech article I've read claims 3PSi. I'll pull my boost controller out tomorrow and run it up and see what it hits... I need to do this anyway, as I need to go back to waste gate pressure before destroying th eengine.

So, who's up for a boost... Just one car on the list... We do it in 24 hours... We get in, we get out, every car on the list... By the time they know what happened, the cars'll be gone... /gone in 60 seconds

I don't. Waste gate is only a 3PSi spring. Your waste gate may be different. Seriously, on the standard setup, turbo = boosted by 2800RPM, to 3PSi steady, at 4500RPM, it cuts upto 7PSi, how do you explain that?