MBS206

NO! The air going backwards CAN'T spin the turbo backwards due to the design of the compressor. The air going backwards applies ZERO force on spinning them backwards. No BOV DOES NOT force blades to go "backwards" What boost controller are you running?

Sounds like fuel pump

If the speedo is gone, the ECU may be attempting to force itself to idle while you're driving, hence, the idle valve is closing right up and stalling. If you unplug your AAC does the car stall?

My button clutch feels lighter then my mates old stocker clutch. Yet, I still tore the bracket off the top of the fire wall... Be aware, the button does more then just put strain on your drive line. It'll chew tyres, it makes parking a bitch, bumper to bumper traffic WILL send you insane, and basically no one else will be able to drive it. It also makes quick take offs at the lights ALOT harder without frying up a set of tyres. I have a button in my R33 with a 4.8KG flywheel... The button clutch is coming out hopefully when new motor goes in, and I'll be headed for an organic.

PM sent Highly interested. First dibs if possible! Edit: I was the one who just gave you the call too. Matt

Find the last time this topic came up in this section... There was a VERY good technical discussion with alot of math involved... Eug was a main contributor with it.

How many people here have sent there cars to a workshop to have the RB25/30 built and installed, and where they Sydney/Wollongong shops... My car needs a rebuild put in, just missed out on the rips motor which someone page earlier bought due to being stuffed around for a few days extra then I expected. So, now I need to find a workshop, who can do me a build, at a reasonable price and put it in. I don't exactly have the time to do it myself, although, I will install it myself if need be. Just want a shop to build it and tune it for me, as I don't have time to build the engine.

Normal polish And why put WD40 on it! It's a f**king lubricant!

Polish it...

Adriano sounds on the money. Retarded timing = combustion isn't complete when exhaust valve is opening, allowing the turbo to spool

Do a skid... And if he's tuning it, on that fuel, it won't detonate... That's the whole point of doing it. But, without a retune, there's zero advantage of putting in 98 fuel either... Hence why it's a placebo when you throw 98 in your excel.

What plugs came out, and what plugs went in?

How'd you check?

I'd say Yes, And no to keeping the AFM. Look at things like sound, nothing beats straight off the side of the motor. Look at extra piping. That's a restriction, minor, but still a restriction. Then you've got 6 filters vs 1 filter. Basically, you have to look at how much you're prepared to spend. I know of only one ECU (Although, I bet there are more) that do a map crossed with a tps tune for multi throttle bodies. And the ecu I know of, is at pretty cheap price too. But, then you'll need a full tune. And then, what gains will you get from the 6 throttles + full tune? Might as well pull the the head at the same time, port it, cams in, etc. But then, big expense, not a "huge" gain. Are you planning on going turbo later on?

Carry a 600ml pump bottle on the passenger seat. that's what my old washer bottle on my supra was...

When tuning with individual throttle bodies. To get a nice smooth response, when running a map sensor, you want to look at something like a MAP crossed with a TPS setup. Reason for it is you can get the same map reading at different TB openings at the same RPM... Yet one lets in more air. Unsure if it's an issue on N/A engines, but it is a hiccup with FI, and I know the quad throttles on the toyota 20Valve I think it is, have this issue. The AFM doesn't have this issue.

The aftermarket boost controller, should be able to get boost BELOW 7PSi, if installed correctly. The factory actuator is only a 3PSi setup. The question is, did you remove the factory solenoid? Also, have you removed the ball and spring from the Turbo Smart tee-piece? Those boost controllers aren't that great... I ran one, switched for the little $20 boost controller and haven't looked back!

There's a system like this out at the moment. And it's also an immobiliser/alarm. You can SMS it to immobilise or lock the car. Get position via SMS of the car, or jump on the net, and view a map of where the car is. The downside, the system is around $1000 (But, it's also an integrated alarm/immobiliser) and you can remotely check status of the car, and arm/disarm features. So full alarm+immobiliser, with tracking... Can't remember name atm... :S Also, pre paid isn't recommend by alot of people, as you need to keep getting access to the phone to recharge it (Or some you can call up and do it with an operator) but again, plan is easier, as you know it won't run out of credit.

Mine gets that same pop from up near the turbo (I know why mine sounds from up there though... ) And it's nothing to worry about. It's just the normal backfire.

ECU is having a hissy fit as you're getting more air then what it should

Ah dood... It's actually the Aussies who pronounce Nissan incorrectly. It is properly pronounced neesssaaan... Ni being pronounced knee. ssan being pronounced saaaan (or sarn, or if you ever learnt japanese in high school... Son)

It's most likely detonating. They run more aggressive timing as you're building boost. Get it on the dyno, get it checked.

Rich and retard DOES NOT "richen" the fuel up. It only retards ignition. In fact, on my dyno graph with stock ecu, when I hit R&R my AFR leaned off slightly (Headed back to a nice 11.5:1) Just rips timing back to around 6-8 degrees

Compression check. Also, oil is not conductive.

Why a larger exhaust then inlet?