MBS206

Unplug EVERYTHING (and I mean EVERYTHING) THEN, Plug it all back in. Seriously, don't just do one or two plugs, do EVERY SINGLE plug. You'll find you've left one plug out, or a relay out, or a fuse. When you redo it, it'll all be sweet.

There's a thing of having temp correction to alter fuel, and as you get a hotter temp, most people put LESS fuel in, as there's less air. The issue becomes, there's less temp difference on the radiator to extract heat from the engine, and the inlet charge is hotter, which means, you're more likely to detonate. An AFR of 12.5, especially with a normal amount of timing, isn't something to sneeze at. It can shred an engine very quickly.

Nice AFR... Not... Rather heading to the lean side on that mate at a 12.5AFR most of the way through the rev range... That could be rather damaging on a warm day if it detonates.

Do you still have the stock rubber that goes from air filter toturbo?

An idiotic idea, and a brilliant way to kill a turbo from major spiking... What boost controller do you have on there? That really is a slow curve, and is NOT right. Have you looked at getting the $30 ebay turbo tech one? They work brilliantly. And a stock turbo, with those mods, should be seeing 10PSi by no later then 3000RPM.

You mean you have to pay more for antilag? WTF is this shit? It's a piece of code, they should just f**king add it!

Get a full compression check mate. My R33 used to do the same thing. I'd dropped cylinder number 3.

If you had an ashtray, how much would you want? Also for the dash surround (Big piece that goes up over stereo, and cluster) And also the two arm rest bits on the drivers doors? Just prices on IF you have them. If you do, I'll drop around soon and pick up. Also the clip that goes on the drivers seat, and holds onto the seat belt?

Missed this ages ago... Mine sounds from up at the turbo as I run launch control... And it's not the light pops you are all talking about, I get bangs + flame... But the light pops, are normal, and nearly every car does this, especially on down hills. Most cars though you can't hear it on as they run quiet exhausts.

Change your O2 sensor. If it's bunged, it'll really upset your car. Also check the two wire temp sensor is within spec. If it's saying the car is always cold, then you'll run rich all the time. Clean out your air filter, and your AFM as well. Then go grab some Subaru upper cylinder cleaner. Pull the line from the IACV off, and spray half the can down this hose. Put the hose back on, and leave it for 5 minutes. After the 5 minutes are up, start the car up, and get someone to hold the revs up (Up around 3 - 4000RPM) take the same hose off, and spray the other half of the can in, whilst getting the person to stop the car from stalling with more throttle. The car WILL blow a SHIT LOAD of black smoke whilst you do this, but, it's cleaning the whole engine out of carbon build up. Your car will love you for it. The neighbours won't.

The door lock, is right beside the thing to open the door, I put money on you bumping it! The other remote wouldn't have worked because the engine was running. My car won't listen to the remotes after the motor is started either.

Buy brand new! 2 year old tyres dry out, and go hard, especially once the first initial bit is worn down! No matter how good these tyres WERE, they'll now be hard, and shit. Might as well just get them for burnouts!

Look up the build that Sydney Kid wants to do. He reckons it should be good for 400HP if I remembre rightly.

I know of a few people who've done idle tuning and what not over the net. Basically setup wireless internet, and do a remote connection over that (The same way you do Guilt but without the phone net) Obviously, that setup is only good for doing the idle and the low vacuum points (IE, open throttle up, and tune where the revs are sitting)

Check that the VCT is still plugged in, and working. Sounds like how the ECU goes when the VCT doesn't change over if not running 100%

So you ran that time with 363RWKW? AWESOME

This at the private track day... There was a CC GSR there running 11.6 also... With lots of smashing the limiter whilst wheel spinning and a screamer...

My exhaust mani gasket for an R32 RB25DE was $60 from nissan.

By far no Pro.Before removing the plugs I also hit the holes with an air gun to clean the shit out, and prevent it going down the hole. Also check down the plug holes also, although there's f**k all to see down there, and if anything goes in, you have f**k all chance of getting it out anyway. Just have to learn how to use the tools properly, and you'll be sweet.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power. And we know revs also kill motors. I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

Personally, I'd be going for a stock turbo if you don't want to break things... I'm running a T04R on the same setup as you, except for ceramic coated pistons, and a flowed head... I hit 4000RPM and just snap into massive amounts of torque... Off boost drives really well, but once above 4000RPM it REALLY Hauls ass...

In the last 6 weeks, no it hasn't been out, I've been driving another car. But it initially got locked away not because of the fuel economy, but because of some attention I stupidly drew to myself and the car... And I'd take it out tomorrow, except as of Friday just gone, I'm not at my work anymore... So I'm watching how much I have to spend on fuel now... But it used to come out and do 400 - 500KMs a week with that fuel economy... (And that was just normal running around, it only went to work ONCE...) I'll update you all with my economy once it's all tuned... But be aware, since I don't drive it alot, it often comes out and gets accelerated hard (Sticking within the speed limit though) although on track, it was known to fishtail 3rd gear without being prompted from the brake pedal or steering wheel.. Just mashing the throttle...

The only feature I see of this ECU, that is beating the Adaptronic e420c, is the auto gearbox control. And hey, the e420c costs around $1290RRP, with the plugin loom, runs map, boost control, launch control, traction control, dual maps, will do what you want it to when it sees knock, so many features in the Adaptronic. Closed loop idle, fuelling changes dependent on temp. All software and upgrades free, and when you get on there forums, or ring the business, you either speak to the Owner, or the 3 guys working for him. All of whom are into there cars, and extremely good at there jobs of fitting the ECU. So the question for me, deciding between these two ECUs if I was going to, would be "Is $700 more worth it for the auto gearbox control" for me, no it isn't, I run a manual, for the auto guys, it might just be, but you just leave your stock ECU piggy backed in to run the auto and save $700... I hadn't managed to find the final price, as I got to page 4, and got sick of the one sided bias coming from Dirt Garage who kept knocking everyone down if they passed a comment he didn't agree with... But hey, that's what sales is all about, pushing your point of view...

Looks normal A boost controller will just cause worse AFRs, but the extra air, still allows for more power. 2 ways to fix the AFR issue really, ECU change, or an adjustable fuel reg.

1500KMs since Start of january this year... Was off the road for some repairs at start of the year, but the last 6 weeks I haven't had it started.