MBS206

Depends how hard you're prepared to rev it and for how long to make boost... Take it for a drive, you're most likely imagining things, and nothing is wrong.

That adaptronic, can use it, if you buy one. The only difference I'd be able to see, is if the PowerFC, Autronic, Motec, Haltech etc, COME with the air temp sensor, which, from my limited reading on these ECUs, they don't come with one either... They may, please correct me if they do. So I don't see the issue here. If you want one, run it. I haven't had an issue with mine, without running one, but I keep my tune conservative, not on the edge. To tune the air temp correction properly, you need to run the car on the dyno in different heats, and then adjust the temp correction, but, at the same time, humidity will also affect the tune, so how many of us are running ECUs that can alter for it?

The change in density would be minimal though, to the point, that cars tuned on the road, generally have a safe tune in them, that the minor amount that they can lean out from this heat up, is negated from the slightly extra fuel anyway. That and the fact the car can run in closed loop, so it can richen or lean out the mixtures accordingly

Why do you say this?

Ditch that POS you're running then, and get Kon to order you a good one... (Yes Adrian... I'm a creature... )

I run one, Ran my RB25DET and now is running my RB25/30DET. Absolutely no issues with it. If you look on the field apps page at the white R33 that's on there. That's my one. It can be ran in one of 4 modes. Open Loop, uses no O2 feedback Closed Loop, Uses O2 feedback and trims the maps by a percentage, this percentage is erased each time the engine is started. Slow converge, uses O2 feedback to SLOWLY modify the fuel values in the fuel map. This takes a long time, and is good to run in to get the maps just perfect at cruise. Fast Learn, uses O2 feedback and very quickly makes changes to the map. Running in this mode is for tuning only really, whack it in this mode with a wideband, when the fuel map is a fair way out, or you've just made some changes to the setup and need to retune. ECU also has features such as Launch Control, Traction Control, a few boost cuts, air temp correction, water temp correction, Soft rev limits, and hard rev limits, log direct onto a laptop, also has the video controller that plugs into a 7" tv screen as an extra unit. The Map sensor, is also tapped into the wires that run to your AFM, so you unplug your AFM, T into these wires, and wire the map sensor in (3 wires that you have to solder and tape in) and then connect the Map sensor in physically. The loom is a simple plug and play. Go nuts setup. Works perfectly. Any questions, PM me.

Check and change the engine temp sensor for the ECU (2 pin) it should be about $90 from Nissan

I like the fact that I have insane fuel economy... Although that might be because it goes through more engine problems then tanks of fuel... Anyone want to change my BHG? But, when it is running, even pig rich, the torque, to just cruise in and around easily. Then when I want some real power, plant it, and wait a second or so for boost... Oh... And only revving to 5000RPM, only 1 bar of boost, running pig rich, no timing, and still able to pull 3rd gear roll on burnouts in the dry with 255 wide rears on... But it's not fun when only using 1/4 throttle in the wet and having the same issues...

If you had a hole, like a decent one in the SMIC, you'd have more dramas then no boost. It would be like trying to run with a cooler pipe off... Rags, as in CLOTH... Pull it all off, check pipes for blockages etc. If you're only seeing MINUS 5, on the boost gauge, you're not even hitting atmospheric pressure, IE, you can't flow enough air through the pipes to even satisfy the engine if it were normally aspirated. You don't have a hole in the pipes, you have a blockage somewhere. Either that, or have you taken the car for a drive and tried to boost it?

If you're only seeing -5 on the stock boost guage, you aren't even getting out of vacuum... Actually, you're quite deep in it. I'd pull the SMIC off and check for rags etc.

As soon as I pay for the new HG and have it all running, I'll have some spare cash to come buy you one!

Gasket issue is not from overheating. There, in the end, was no overheating issue. The car was at its normal op temp, it's just that I had the wrong sensors in, hence, wrong information. Headgasket we'll find out if it either wasn't torque enough on build, or if the motor has seen detonation etc next week.

Does not cause it to overheat. How tight is the belt when you've tensioned it?

I am led to beleive there is a difference between them. Also between mine and friends S1 engines, there seems to be a difference between 93 and 94 model engines. I have a 94, all the guys have 93s, and my ECU just runs like a dog on there engines.

Put the AC on. As to the other belt. Are you tensioning it?

Those ratchet ringys are awesome. Make sure your son doesn't souvenier then back off you... I got a set for my 21st... They truly are a god send!

+1 for innovative. have wide band kit, andl ogging kit. Plugs direct into the Adaptronic and lets the Adaptronic do closed loop tuning (Not just trim, but full adjustment of fuel maps)

Adriano, Bubba: The beers that I owe you, have to go on hold... Blew the HG apart tonight...

Just had another look at pics. 1) Move your pressure source AWAY from your FPR. You should NEVER tee things off the FPR signal line. You can cause pressure drops when putting things on that flow air etc. 2) Your hose clamps on the hot side of the intercooler to turbo seem to not be sitting right. Undo them, line them back up, redo them.

Quoted as I'm also interested...

Adriano, Bubba, I shall replace the temp sensors. If you guys solve this one, I owe you both a beer!

Take it to a mechanic at this stage...

Thermo is rated at 76.5 The service manual gives a length it should be open at 90C. Car should be sitting around 77 - 78 when idling. Gauge in the dash is off the scale. As is ECU, and a thermometer.

R34 GTFour: The current thermostat is genuine. I decided after the second, that I'd try a genuine one. I'll time it on Saturday to see how long it takes to open. I know at 90degrees celcius it should be open 10mm (According to the service manual) And I've been squeezing the bottom hose, and you can feel it pressure the top hose (squeeze top hose first) from the radiator side, as though the thermo wasn't open. Very strange...

I run high flow. I might be able to gain 3RWKW at max with it removed. System flows well enough