MBS206

Is it just me, or are you guys missing the REAL basics? You have a vented bonnet, it was pissing down rain. You've filled something electrical in the engine bay, most likely your coil packs, with water and they've stopped working. You're going to have to disconnect everything electrical and spray CO contact cleaner in there, then put it all back together. Bitch of a job, but it's the only way, unless you wait about 10 days for the water to evaporate.

The procams with 10+ mm of lift, are for solid lifters. The ones with < 10mm lift are for hydraulic.

Any water in the oil? Lots of steam out the exhaust (more then normal)? Only other way to really check is to pull the head off, which means you replace the head gasket if blown or not.

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages. If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off. When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking. Check your alternator out, and all connections.

You don't just set the cams to Zero degrees. They NEED to be dialled in properly. Also, running different sizes from inlet to exhaust does different things with the engine. You will most definitely HAVE to dial them in to make the most of it, and this is why your power will be out and your ignition timing.

Is it like a high pitch whistle or a howl? If it's more whistle like, it'll be a gasket blown. If it's howling, bearings shot, etc...

Every engine burns oil. It is normal. As said before, it depends on whether it's noticeable in 5 - 10K kms. If the engine didn't burn oil, that means oil doesn't stay on the bores, which means the rings would rub hard metal to metal, and wear out insanely fast. since a small amount stays on the bores as the rings slide past, when the cylinder is ignited, that oil is burnt off, and then recoated on the next revolution... Hence, oil burnt. Also with turbos, it can be EXTREMELY common to get hot oil vapour etc sucked into the catch can.

If I knew you had the wing when I bought the seats, I'd have bought it too... Hrm... Lemme see what I can swing $$$ wise but most likely not until after Christmas...

Skull drag it with another car...

I have to ask, with your choice of ECU, does the Link do a lookup comparison between MAP and TPS? With ITB, you'll find that at different throttle positions, you get the same pressure behind the throttle body (Headed for the motor) but, you're actually getting different air, especially since you get a lot of air turbulence. This is where you'll LOSE out on your throttle response, and get a drop in power, if it's not able to be tuned properly. The Adaptronic which was mentioned earlier, does exactly this. The GTR doesn't have to worry about anything of the likes until you go MAP sensor on it. And then it sees the exact same issue. Also to the person saying the Adaptronic runs unreliable drivers... I'd like to ask, SINCE WHEN?

Used to do it all the time in the old Camaro that the olds used to own... Mind you, it also topped out first gear 112KM/H. Also, if it's an auto, it won't snap down to 1st gear at 50km/h. Complete lock out from down shifting once above 45km/h in the autos. You guys seem to like to argue about shit too. Personally, I'm looking to sell my Skyline and buy an SS. Why... Doesn't stand out, plenty of grunt from the big 8 with just as much, if not more potential, and the FE2 suspension, from the factory, is unreal IMO. I haven't found ANY factory suspension that really matches it.

Clutch

Some people were also dropped at birth, others just should have been swallowed when they were conceived...

It blew on him as he was pushing more and more nitrous into it. I know Jason, have seen the car. Ran a 10.8 IIRC with him backing off BEFORE the line. Was making 370 odd RWKW, with Nitrous.

Sorry Baron, I forgot to use the smilies in my reply. I was purely joking with Dirt, knowing full well he would not be "limiter checking" a car, and I was nearly 100% that he hadn't bought a R35 yet...

Were you checking to make sure the rev limiter was installed in reverse?

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BAHAHAHAHA!!! You're shitting me right? I can walk into Voda, get a similar number, (Yes it will be differen't) but just "as good" and easy to remember, Pay $51, and get $300 worth of credit... So tell me, why should I pay more for less?

I have an RB25DE head on my 25/30 (My new head too) and it has VCT. And no, I didn't buy it from some confused "loon" who claimed it was a RB25DE head, as I also have the rest of the motor to go with it... If it were an RB25DE head from an R32, then no, it wouldn't have VCT, but the R33, and R34 RB25DE heads HAVE VCT.

From what I've read, we no longer have to have the restrictors in. They were only mandatory during the time when leaded, and lead replacement fuels were available to stop the mix up there. Also, if the pumps were designed to avoid the mix up, then the sizes really should be swapped... A petrol motor can run with diesel mixed into it, as it needs REALLY high compression ratios, or a flame front to ignite it. Hence, it'll just make the car run really oily, and blow blue/black smoke until it's all gone. Now, throw petrol in a diesel motor and watch all hell break loose as the petrol pre-ignites, then ignites the diesel, then bends rods as we've only just started the compression stroke... Not finishing it...

Where in the guide does it say this?

Make a custom throttle with ITB, with individual air filters. Same throttle response, same induction noise, no plenum, better tuneability, more reliable and consistent through varying weather patterns. I still need to ask why you want to remove the ECU, considering, placing it in any car in NSW would make it illegal with ECU etc removed.

The question would be, WHY? Even if transplanting, the engine is still from a "new" vehicle, and hence, when being engineered, needs to meet the Emmision levels of the engine. Hence, going Carby, you will not meet these emissions, so I'd really have to ask WHY you want to do it? If you get a whole loom, plus ECU, it really is only around 5 or so wires you need to modify to make it all fit. Much easier the customising manifolds.

Are you sure you actually have foglights? The series one, with and without fog lights look the same from outside, just that the non fog light series 1 cars don't have the bulb or wiring, or switch. But when "looking" at the car from outside, with all lights off, look like they do have fog lights.

Sent you a PM, but you didn't reply...