MBS206

Whilst I like saying everything done to my car is all done in my garage, the blood sweat and tears sometimes doesn't feel worth it when shit all goes horribly wrong and there's major f'uck ups, as I find I quite often lose my focus, and interest for a while... Only right now, as I'm getting things back together am I starting to be slightly happy... Although it's still stressing me money wise that I may not quite finish everything when I want too...

HOLY SHIT! Ever thought of putting individual throttles on the RB25? Not like it hasn't been done before... Oh and the butterflies won't affect LAG or the BOOST THRESHOLD between either of them if built right. It WILL affect throttle response... These are THREE totally different things.

My question is, is this "rattle" from the exhaust, or is it a rattle from something else... All that you've said is "rattle" at 3000RPM... Are you sure the noise is from the exhaust?

Why is an RB25 going to be laggy compared to an RB26 making the same power? If you've got a really laggy RB25 making the same power as the RB26, then the RB25 isn't built right... It's only a 100CC difference, not overly noticeable, at all on the street. Now compare the RB25/26 to an RB26/30 and the latter will make much more power, with the same lag... And just remember, Lag and boost threshold are two different things...

Define better. Looks, flow, noise?

For some reason I didn't get notified of this reply... :) I don't have any current photos, but, I'll attempt to slide under the car tomorrow and get some photos of the setup, where the car is currently sitting, I can't move it, or jack it up, so I'll try my best to get some photos, but they won't be great, when it goes up on the hoist next, I'll grab the good photos. Please note, the dump pipe WON'T be bolted up. I'll try get the measurements as well of what sizes I'm running length wise, I know it's definitely a 5" and a 7" (midd and rear) I'm thinking of trying to make it even quieter, so I might lengthen my mid section, and put the front muffler on, just to see how quiet I can really get it.

Check the breather hoses to things like the charcoal canister. If they crack, you'll get really strong fuel vapour smells.

If Cara could find the real problem, and then post her dyno "figures" and then back up the power with a good MPH, not an issue... Until then, those who know, are just sitting back pissing themselves laughing at her for believing the knock sensors are the culprit. Come on Cara, dyno it, and then drag it!

Once it goes back together Adrian, Kon's expecting somewhere between 450 - 480 hot ponies from it at the tarmac melting stage... It already lights third on the roll before it came apart again... But, I don't see what this has to do with a sensor on a car, that affects absolutely nothing in the way of the tune, and hence, won't affect power, or driveability.

*Dives into a garbage bin at 200 killer wasps*

So a sensor that provides feed back to a system, which does NOTHING with this feed back to alter ANYTHING, not even pull timing or change fuelling... Made a difference on your car? Wow... I really want to know how it did that... Unsure if you know, but having a knock sensor, having a dead knock sensor, and having no knock sensor, on a car with a powerFC will make it run EXACTLY the same... The only thing you'll notice, is the CEL flashing if you actually get knock, (Or if it's cactus it'll flash without there being any knock, and without the sensor, it won't flash at all) But glad to see you picked up 50 bajillion killer wasps at the rear wheels... So, when are we going to actually see this thing make a pass down the quarter to back up these over inflated dyno figures? Or, are you too scared to run it down the 1/4 as it'd prove you don't have all those killer wasps, just like you won't post a dyno sheet of how it's running now as you know the knock sensor did sweet f**k all, and if your mechanic told you it made a difference, you should quit going to him. If it's you saying "it made a difference" get over the placebo effect.

Knock sensor change was an epic failure I bet...

Driveway to garage... That's a long distance... Do you not look in your mirrors?

I run a 3" straight through system, with a cat, and two mufflers. My exhaust is loudest at idle, and even then, it's legal. Open the throttle right up, and all that you can hear is the engine itself revving, and the turbo induction. My whole system is custom, the only off the shelf item is my cat, my mufflers are all custom built. If you're around Sydney/Wollongong, and you want a really nice sounding car, that's quiet, with HUGE flow, PM me, and I'll pass on some details for you. Oh, and when my mufflers were built, we were looking going "Hrm, we can fit X, but we'll just stick to smaller for now, if we want quieter, we can make this one bigger, that one bigger, oh, and throw another one in there..." For reference my rear muffler is a 7" 650mm round custom muffler with fibreglass packing, straight through setup. And mid muffler is a 5" 550mm from memory (Or maybe it's the 650 and the 7" is the 550) and it runs fibreglass packing as well, and if I wanted another one, I was going to lengthen the 5" muffler to 950mm, and also chuck in another 5" 650mm stainless packed muffler BEFORE the cat (Hence stainless to deal with greater heat)

And that's the advantage of the 3L and a big turbo... Hit the throttle, while waiting for boost, you have torque, when it comes on boost... GONE!!!

Hey man, PM'd you a few days ago, haven't gotten a response. Genuine interest on the motor.

Hydro, by the English dictionary, refers solely, to water. Hydraulic, refers to fluid, oil, water, what ever, just as a fluid. Hence, when the original question was "Is my car hydro locked" the answer is, NO. There is no water in the cylinder, to HYDRO lock it. There may be some other fluid, Hydraulic locking it, by the car is not HYDRO locked... It was a bit of a tongue in cheek remark using the play on words to get people to think, you sir, seemed to have taken it quite too seriously. Oh, as to background, mechx engineering, doing lots of work with Computers and eletrical/electronics in industry... You'll find crimps are alot worse at making good connections then a solidly solidered joint.

Mine was a bucket of shit and annoying to drive daily, purely as it wasn't tuned... It loved to foul up plugs and what not... Used to idle at 10:1 AFR. But once even the idle got tuned back at 15:1, it became hell nicer to drive on the street. Once away from idle, apart from the over fuelling, it was really good and easy to live with, much better then the RB25DET

That one is deisgned for a 2" exhaust (Hence 2" inlet) It's sad though that some people believe the tip on the last muffler HAS to be like 5 times larger then the inlet... My 3" outlet, on a black 7" round bodied muffler looks stealth as cause you can barely see it!

Hydro VS Hydraulic... I see mechanics can be pretty thick some times hey? Back OT: HOW did you do the joins on the AFM? Did you just do some nice "twist and tape" or did you properly solder them and heat shrink them? I'd also be pulling all of the inlet piping off that you've touched, and put it all back on. THEN, check it's all tight.

So from that, as long as you can clear ground height, and noise, then it's legal as far as I can read from that.

Just thought I'd add too... Even if it's full of fuel, it's not hydrolocked... Hydro, means water...

A starter motor is designed to draw high current, it'll draw huge current if it can't turn the motor, as the starter initially acts as a short circuit, and if it doesn't start turning, then it doesn't build it's own resistance, hence, you've got a short circuit and huge current draw, but the starter is a-okay...

They see me rollin... They hatin... :D

Throw it on the charger all after noon, and all night, try start her up tomorrow around lunch time. Sounds like a low battery issue... Maybe the alternator is on it's way out? And when you say it runs really rich, how badly do you mean? Constantly blowing black smoke etc? What's your fuel economy like?