MBS206

Wait for me to get my car back on the road, and I'll prove you wrong on that. I used to shoot 1 foot long bright blue flames out the back of mine sitting at the tree waiting to launch. WITHOUT Anti Lag.

Have you let the PFC do the idle learn?

ZOMG! I lost 25HP between dyno runs!!! Shit... Never seen that before... Oh wait... Yes I have... It's just the dyno not correcting it out perfectly. You haven't lost power, move on with it. Chasing dyno numbers is pointless. If you want your magical missing power back, when you do the run, make the air temp sensor on the dyno read higher then it really is...

Just think, when you pull it down, you'll have to pull the dump pipe off, then it's usually easiest to remove the turbos, remove exhaust mani, undo everything that attaches to the head or inlet manifold (Pipes, and electricals) And then undo the head from the block, watch for scraped knuckles or elbow here... I smashed my elbow hard on the guard... You'll also have to take all the timing gear off the front of it, which, in the end means the radiator has to come out, fan off, bottom belts all off, harmonic off, just to get your timing back on. While the heads off, check the block is true flat, and get the head skimmed. Then you have to bolt it all back on. Have fun, it's a big task.

It's a bit of a flamin mongrel of a job, that's all I'll say... Mines in pieces at the moment (RB25/30) and I'm not looking forward to putting it back together... If you f**k one thing up... You gotta rip it all down to that point...

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t. The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

Go break an engine mount, or just unbolt the passenger one. The motor will twist around a shit load more, response drops off, and so does overall power. And if no amount of torque can shift the motor, then you won't lose any, because there is none being USED to move it no where. And if someone sponsors me some L28 mounts, I'll change them over...

So... Update...

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels... But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover. This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing... Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

16.8 @ 97mph, he can't drive for shit...

On a daily car, it is fine. On the race track, stick a bit lower down. (This is why the ex bathurst GTR ran a 7000RPM limiter on race day, but during prac/qual ran 8000RPM...)

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

So what I said about the factory limiter being at 8000RPM is correct? Why the hell lower it to 6950 then!!! It's CRAZY TALK!

Trent, if I am ever in Victoria, I'm definitely going to swing past to check out your setup, I hear a lot of good things, and would like to have a look-see and say Hi sometime, unfortunately though, I'm from Wollongong (Just south of Sydney) I'm also planning to wait until Andy and the boys finish the new ECU, and I plan to upgrade to it also.

I, and many others have ZERO issues running wasted injection and wasted spark. Including the 1UZFE boys.

Isn't the factory rev limit 8000RPM for an RB26DETT?

I'm still wondering how your missing power has come back so suddenly from a change in knock sensors when you run a power FC... Also, you seem pretty caught up on playing the numbers game... A mates car went from making 195RWKW to making 160oddRWKW, yet, it still ran the exact same 1/4 mile times... Maybe when he lost power, the laws of physics changed also?

haven't measured them. Will attempt to do that tomorrow.

Another idea... Get it tuned? You have VERY lean fuel mixtures. You need to get the car tuned, for your motor, and injectors... Tune it. Now.

Hey guys, Blew the head gasket in my RB25/30, pulled it all down, and turns out, it neither matches the head, nor the block. Note, I didn't build this motor, and it only lasted a max of 1500kms before this let go... Pics to come: So, the head is an RB25DE head from an R32, and obviously, it's a S2 RB30 block... So, does anyone know what that head gasket is from? I'm thinking RB20 due to the oil/water gallery line up sizes of it...

What ECU?

Get it tuned. Pure and simple. Also, what base fuel pressure are you running?

Body kits = fail... Just plain ugly and destroying factory lines! But, each to there own. As to the gas, and "loss of performance", you can actually extract more power from gas, then you can from premium unleaded... Why? It has a higher octane rating, and hence, is more resistant to knocking. The ISSUE with tuning for sheer power on LPG, is that LPG doesn't have the quality control that petrol does. IE, you gas it up one day at say 114octane, but a few days later, you gas up at another place, but there gas is only 105 octane... That's an issue if you're tuned on the edge on 114 octane...

The R32 RB25DE inlet manifolds ARE NOT the same as an RB25DET from an R33. (And the R32 was never released with an RB25DET AFAIK) To get the correct inlet manifold gasket, head down to Nissan, it's where mine came from. You will require a Vin number and model number though for most Nissan Dealerships to help you since it is an import. The RB20DET also does NOT match. The RB25DET ports are larger then the RB25DE from the R32, and the RB25DE from an R32, has larger ports then an RB20DET. You will have to get the inlet gasket for the RB25DE from an R32 itself (The RB25DE R33 has larger ports again over the RB25DE from an R32!) Go to Nissan, go directly to Nissan, from memory it shouldn't be over $120 for this part. Oh, and when you get the part number, can you let me know? I'm about to have to go and buy one too... As well as the exhaust manifold gasket... And the head gasket...

88 000KM on it... But isn't the sticker on the timing cover saying it's done 100 000KM? Isn't that what that sticker is for, they put it on ONCE the car has had the 100 000KM service?