MBS206

Coilovers are not illegal. They're a factory fitted item.

Check that the part where the CAS goes into isn't chewed out. It allows the CAS to flop around, and jumps timing up and down and causes mis fires mainly when attempting to hold revs constant.

So now, if we read into those rules... You'll need to check the floor pan of the car, and see where you can make it exit... I've seen some of the guys running side pipes out through the passenger guard... But that's usually on drag car setup.

Am waiting to see your results... Then I might get mine tuned for it if I can get the local servo guy I use to stock it!

Check your TPS. If it isn't working properly, then you will lose the throttle enrichment, hence, a lean out when you first step on it. Also, earth the fuel pump as mentioned. Throw some new plugs in it gapped at 0.8mm

Wait for me to get my car back on the road, and I'll prove you wrong on that. I used to shoot 1 foot long bright blue flames out the back of mine sitting at the tree waiting to launch. WITHOUT Anti Lag.

Have you let the PFC do the idle learn?

ZOMG! I lost 25HP between dyno runs!!! Shit... Never seen that before... Oh wait... Yes I have... It's just the dyno not correcting it out perfectly. You haven't lost power, move on with it. Chasing dyno numbers is pointless. If you want your magical missing power back, when you do the run, make the air temp sensor on the dyno read higher then it really is...

Just think, when you pull it down, you'll have to pull the dump pipe off, then it's usually easiest to remove the turbos, remove exhaust mani, undo everything that attaches to the head or inlet manifold (Pipes, and electricals) And then undo the head from the block, watch for scraped knuckles or elbow here... I smashed my elbow hard on the guard... You'll also have to take all the timing gear off the front of it, which, in the end means the radiator has to come out, fan off, bottom belts all off, harmonic off, just to get your timing back on. While the heads off, check the block is true flat, and get the head skimmed. Then you have to bolt it all back on. Have fun, it's a big task.

It's a bit of a flamin mongrel of a job, that's all I'll say... Mines in pieces at the moment (RB25/30) and I'm not looking forward to putting it back together... If you f**k one thing up... You gotta rip it all down to that point...

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t. The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

Go break an engine mount, or just unbolt the passenger one. The motor will twist around a shit load more, response drops off, and so does overall power. And if no amount of torque can shift the motor, then you won't lose any, because there is none being USED to move it no where. And if someone sponsors me some L28 mounts, I'll change them over...

So... Update...

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels... But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover. This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing... Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

16.8 @ 97mph, he can't drive for shit...

On a daily car, it is fine. On the race track, stick a bit lower down. (This is why the ex bathurst GTR ran a 7000RPM limiter on race day, but during prac/qual ran 8000RPM...)

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

So what I said about the factory limiter being at 8000RPM is correct? Why the hell lower it to 6950 then!!! It's CRAZY TALK!

Trent, if I am ever in Victoria, I'm definitely going to swing past to check out your setup, I hear a lot of good things, and would like to have a look-see and say Hi sometime, unfortunately though, I'm from Wollongong (Just south of Sydney) I'm also planning to wait until Andy and the boys finish the new ECU, and I plan to upgrade to it also.

I, and many others have ZERO issues running wasted injection and wasted spark. Including the 1UZFE boys.

Isn't the factory rev limit 8000RPM for an RB26DETT?

I'm still wondering how your missing power has come back so suddenly from a change in knock sensors when you run a power FC... Also, you seem pretty caught up on playing the numbers game... A mates car went from making 195RWKW to making 160oddRWKW, yet, it still ran the exact same 1/4 mile times... Maybe when he lost power, the laws of physics changed also?

haven't measured them. Will attempt to do that tomorrow.

Another idea... Get it tuned? You have VERY lean fuel mixtures. You need to get the car tuned, for your motor, and injectors... Tune it. Now.

Hey guys, Blew the head gasket in my RB25/30, pulled it all down, and turns out, it neither matches the head, nor the block. Note, I didn't build this motor, and it only lasted a max of 1500kms before this let go... Pics to come: So, the head is an RB25DE head from an R32, and obviously, it's a S2 RB30 block... So, does anyone know what that head gasket is from? I'm thinking RB20 due to the oil/water gallery line up sizes of it...