MBS206

I like the fact that I have insane fuel economy... Although that might be because it goes through more engine problems then tanks of fuel... Anyone want to change my BHG? But, when it is running, even pig rich, the torque, to just cruise in and around easily. Then when I want some real power, plant it, and wait a second or so for boost... Oh... And only revving to 5000RPM, only 1 bar of boost, running pig rich, no timing, and still able to pull 3rd gear roll on burnouts in the dry with 255 wide rears on... But it's not fun when only using 1/4 throttle in the wet and having the same issues...

If you had a hole, like a decent one in the SMIC, you'd have more dramas then no boost. It would be like trying to run with a cooler pipe off... Rags, as in CLOTH... Pull it all off, check pipes for blockages etc. If you're only seeing MINUS 5, on the boost gauge, you're not even hitting atmospheric pressure, IE, you can't flow enough air through the pipes to even satisfy the engine if it were normally aspirated. You don't have a hole in the pipes, you have a blockage somewhere. Either that, or have you taken the car for a drive and tried to boost it?

If you're only seeing -5 on the stock boost guage, you aren't even getting out of vacuum... Actually, you're quite deep in it. I'd pull the SMIC off and check for rags etc.

As soon as I pay for the new HG and have it all running, I'll have some spare cash to come buy you one!

Gasket issue is not from overheating. There, in the end, was no overheating issue. The car was at its normal op temp, it's just that I had the wrong sensors in, hence, wrong information. Headgasket we'll find out if it either wasn't torque enough on build, or if the motor has seen detonation etc next week.

Does not cause it to overheat. How tight is the belt when you've tensioned it?

I am led to beleive there is a difference between them. Also between mine and friends S1 engines, there seems to be a difference between 93 and 94 model engines. I have a 94, all the guys have 93s, and my ECU just runs like a dog on there engines.

Put the AC on. As to the other belt. Are you tensioning it?

Those ratchet ringys are awesome. Make sure your son doesn't souvenier then back off you... I got a set for my 21st... They truly are a god send!

+1 for innovative. have wide band kit, andl ogging kit. Plugs direct into the Adaptronic and lets the Adaptronic do closed loop tuning (Not just trim, but full adjustment of fuel maps)

Adriano, Bubba: The beers that I owe you, have to go on hold... Blew the HG apart tonight...

Just had another look at pics. 1) Move your pressure source AWAY from your FPR. You should NEVER tee things off the FPR signal line. You can cause pressure drops when putting things on that flow air etc. 2) Your hose clamps on the hot side of the intercooler to turbo seem to not be sitting right. Undo them, line them back up, redo them.

Quoted as I'm also interested...

Adriano, Bubba, I shall replace the temp sensors. If you guys solve this one, I owe you both a beer!

Take it to a mechanic at this stage...

Thermo is rated at 76.5 The service manual gives a length it should be open at 90C. Car should be sitting around 77 - 78 when idling. Gauge in the dash is off the scale. As is ECU, and a thermometer.

R34 GTFour: The current thermostat is genuine. I decided after the second, that I'd try a genuine one. I'll time it on Saturday to see how long it takes to open. I know at 90degrees celcius it should be open 10mm (According to the service manual) And I've been squeezing the bottom hose, and you can feel it pressure the top hose (squeeze top hose first) from the radiator side, as though the thermo wasn't open. Very strange...

I run high flow. I might be able to gain 3RWKW at max with it removed. System flows well enough

It has both R32 senders in it. Is there a difference? Daisu: I have been yes, will be doing more soon, following the service manual at the moment to bleed it, need to cool car back down again.

Hey Daisu Yeah, the bottom rad hose is the inlet of water TO the motor, and this is where the thermo also sits, and also where the waterpump pulls water from (Hence the bypass directly behind the thermo that gets closed when it opens. When I had the water pump off, I blasted water through every opening I could find. From the top outlet pipe, to the water bypass where the thermo sits, to the point the pump pushes water through. They all flowed around and together... Weird... :S Oh and the engine was meant to be freshly rebuilt (And every sign on it says it is a fresh rebuild also...) Will pull the hoses off though and check for blockages, but it seems to be able to flow, as everytime I remove that pipe water pours out of it. Will removed and check though.

What let go on the old turbo? Just the exhaust wheel? If the intake also let go, pull the FMIC off and inspect it.

The stock gauge is also telling me it is WAY too hot. Even the mechanic is saying it is way too hot, especially for just sitting and idling.

Chrisso: Without thermo, the temp sits at 60 - 70 degrees, The issue with not running a thermo in an RB style motor, is the water divert in the back of the block, if it's not blocked whilst taking water from the radiator, I've been told it can hot spot the block. My mechanic refuses to tune it without a thermo in it, and as such, the car is at mine whilst we work out the issue (He was letting me work on it at his workshop for no charge, but workshop got full... ) The top hose is actually getting to a boiling temp, as 2 temp guages in the pipe say so, as does the laser gun, and a thermometer in the top of the rad.

I'd first check your throttle position sensor, next up would be change back to the same weight oil as you pulled out.

Hey all. Currently my 25/30 has a bad overheating issue. The car heats up nice and quick, but the skyrockets and fluctuates between 85 - 90degrees. The bottom radiator pipe stays cold, whilst the top is boiling hot. I have replaced the thermo stat 3 times, it now runs a genuine pump. I'm running the standard fan, and the air it is pulling off the radiator is cold, the only part of the radiator that is getting hot, is the top 1 - 2 inches. I haven't seen the temp go above 90 degrees, even if the car is moving. This issue has been there since the motor was put together. Any help/ideas/suggestions? Details below. Currently I have an RB25/30 It's running the RB25DE head from an R32, with 240 degree exhaust, and 248 degree inlet cams. The bottom end is a VL RB30 bottom end. The only mods to the bottom end (Other then being a fresh build) are ceramic coated pistons. Running the fuel side is a bosch 044 pump, with a sard adj reg, and Bosch 036 Injectors. Inlet mani is stock 25DE from an R32. Exhaust mani is a 6boost, bolted to a T04R. Coilpacks are splitfire, plugs are gapped to 1.1mm Running a plazmaman FMIC, and a BRAND NEW Radiator (The radiator has been run for 20 minutes, The old one passed away during testing to solve the over heating issue) The pump is a genuine nissan waterpump, RB30. It's been pulled off, and inspected, it is brand new too. I am kind of thinking that the standard outlet piping which is from 2 spots on the side of the head, which join into one pipe, and the one spot out the front of the inlet manifold, that join together, and then return to the radiator might need the pipes to the head blocked, and just leave the inlet mani side... Not sure though, and don't want to break anything. The motor has ALWAYS had this over heating issue since it went in my car. Any help, ideas, suggestions, things to check or try? This car is doing my head in majorly... Please help. Thanks heaps, Matt