MBS206

I'm still putting money on the turbos are getting to their efficiency... The N1s are good on a stock RB26 at around 24PSi... Now you're pushing 17PSi through... So an absolute pressure of 31.7PSi... Now add in the fact you're ingesting an extra 15% of that air, rather then it being a restriction... So you're really pushing ~37PSi... Take back off the 1 atmosphere... You're pushing around 22/23PSi "comparison" wise... But you have to think, at the same time, when you push 15% more air in, you're pushing MORE then 15% more air out... (Heat, expansion, yada yada yada) you're just pushing those poor turbos WAY past their efficiency range... Get the maps out, and do the maths... Those turbos are out of their league! A friend pushes his at 24PSi on a stock capacity 26... Makes 320AWKW... And it makes it up near 6500RPM... You may "only" be making 300AWKW in yours... But you have to think, you're making it at a LOT lower RPM if you're running outta power at 6250... Which means, you're making more torque... So you're using more fuel, and air (Less restriction, same boost level, more air flow... ), at a lower RPM... TURBOS ARE OUT OF EFFICIENCY... Logic says it...

Maybe the ones you're listening to have larger turbos?

How far away from the exhaust tip did he have the microphone? From your description he had it right at the exhaust tip...

Explain how it's a backwards/sideways step on a skyline? I run INDIVIDUAL COILS per cylinder, but run wasted spark... Wasted spark is not just about having 1 coil, for 2 cylinders, it is PURELY about firing 2 or more spark plugs, when only one is actually making the power.

I'd also be looking at the turbo maps of the N1s... It's all about air flow, not boost where they become inefficient, so moneypit could be well on the money... And getting bigger cams, is just going to make the problem worse if he's correct.

The one I run has a RRP of $1000, and from memory the plug in loom + Map sensor was $290 RRP IIRC.

The 1JZ and I believe 2JZ also run MAP... Lots of manufacturers cars run MAP from the factory My car takes a couple of cranks to fire, but that is purely the ECU, and NOTHING to do with it being MAP based.

The issue with multi throttle bodies and MAP, is the turbulunce. You can get the same MAP reading, for a different throttle reading, and it plays havoc. Good ECU's, like the Adaptronic, Motec, (I also believe Haltech, ViPEC and Autronic) run MAP vs TPS tuning. I run MAP with the Adaptronic, and it has no issues at all. Actually, it has quite a few benefits... I can run NO BOV, and not have a single issue. I run an oil coated air filter, and not have it flood my AFM giving shit readings, resulting in poor idle...

The Adaptronic is an awesome unit. I've been running one now for quite a while (When my car runs that is) Currently tuning the car myself, and it's quite easy to use. Go with it, it has AWESOME support after purchase, and is constantly having new features put in it. Currently has traction control, launch control, flat shift, etc etc etc, (boost control too)

Where's your pressure source for your wastegate? If you take the pressure source from the inlet plenum, it helps smash the waste gate closed when shifting which helps bring boost on quicker... Especially if you run no BOV it will make a HUGE difference...

Run a braided line. It goes down under the turbo... Very hot down there...

mmHg is only used in VACUUM. I can't remember what the positive pressure side is measured in. But the GTS-t RB25DET R33 runs 7PSi max stock.

VCT is off below 1050 RPM Turns back on once you get above 1050RPM, then turns back off at 4500RPM...

This man, he knows... Hand brake shoes don't really "wear out" unless you're one of those gumbys who drives around with the hand brake still partially on... Most of the time, when you pull the hand brake on, the car is already stopped, so there isn't really any "wear"

So how'd those new knock sensors go with the PFC? As for doing skids, I'll rip em on the spot to finish a set of tyres of, but I much prefer throwing the car aroundo n the skid pan, sliding here and there.

Try bolting the backing plate TO the engine... It'll be easier... Just go buy one, and bolt it on. Problem solvered...

Put the factory BOV back on, OR plumb your Atmo BOV back into the intake... In the same way the Factory one does it...

Hey man, I can't exactly go drilling and tapping shit at the moment, as the head has already been service, cleaned and rebolted to the motor. I'm at the part of needing to get this oil line done, so I can put my inlet plenum back on...

Hey guys, I've been searching and digging around for some info, but I can't really find what i need... Anyway, I have an RB25DE head from an R33 (YES it HAS VCT!) Now, I had a workshop do the tapping of the hole for the oil feed to the VCT... Now my issue seems to be, he's tapped the hole on the SIDE of the head... IE, pretend you're bolting on the inlet plenum, the way that bolt is being done up to bolt it to the head, is the same way you would do up the oil fitting to the head... As in, the hole is on the side, not the front... Now, why such an issue I hear you all ask... Well issue is, when I have the little adapter, plus the oil line bolted onto it, it fouls on the water feed into the plenum. As in, the actual fittings JUST clear it, but the alloy oil line fouls it, no matter how hard you turn it, as the fittings JUST clear (As in, half a millimetre) So I went back to my local place for getting bits and pieces like this, after a bit of chatting, instead of running a straight adapter out of the head, I got a 90 degree bend so I could clear everything... ISSUE! This fitting cant be screwed in, as it fouls on the head as you turn it to screw it in (Where the stud goes through, it hits this bulge) So, I'm wondering, how have others done their oil fittings if their hole is tapped in the same spot. OR, if I plug this hole, and DON'T feed my VCT any oil at all, what issues can I encounter? Should I pull the VCT valve out and just put a plug in here too? Or would I be better off getting a fitting that will fit the VCT hole, plugging the one I tapped and just feeding constant oil up there. (I don't care right now if VCT does, or doesn't work) I don't have the cash to change cams, hence, not worried right now if I lose VCT, so long as i don't smash a motor to pieces... Any help... Thanks

Just put another RB20 box in... Should be able to pick one up for a couple of hundred, spend a weekend with a mate under the car. All done.

Okay guys, you're all noticing drops in engine temps (Bar Guilt Toy) so has it worried you that now your engine is not running at the temperature it was designed to? Maybe causing pre-mature wear? We all know it's bad to flog a "cold" engine, but is it bad to flog a cooler then normal temp engine? (IE, 10 - 15 degrees less?)

That's the one, can you PM me a price with shipping included to 2518?

Ethanol is ethanol... Or are you more concerned of the other 15%?

The fuel dampener, I can see it in one of the pics. How much for it?

on the exhaust side of the engine, on the actual side, but at the front, there is a big hexagonal "thing" which has an electrical connection. It sits just behind the back of the cam cover. You can see it without removing a single thing.