MBS206

NSW clearly states, in VSI 06 (Search for it on the RTA website) that emissions must meet that of whichever is NEWER. IE, LS6 into HQ = Meets LS6 emissions. Old 350 into a new VE Commodore, = Meets VE Commodore emissions. The VSI 06 document clearly states this, and as we know, it's much easier to get a new engine and keep it at its emissions standard, rather then bring an old engine up to new standards. Hence why most people claim that you can only put an engine into a different car if the engine is newer then the car... As it's simpler, and they have NFI...

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily. Even on 10PSi... I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire. I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world. The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

Black Flagged - You'll be followed everywhere, and constantly pulled over. Changing plates won't help it. It's tagged to your licence + car. I had to start disappearing a few times smartly after I got done "high speed"... Basically, I was lucky I had friends and family that worked around where I kept getting followed and would just pull in down a long driveway and they'd drive off...

Bubba, what time, MPH, and RWHP are you running?

Um... Are you not the water pump and oil pump etc? As for the dump, cut it and get 38mm longer added into it... IC Piping, is usually change one pipe. More machining? What more machining? Skim the head, deck the block... Are you not doing this on the RB25? I had my head modified to retain VVT for my second head (DIdn't have it on the first, still torquey as hell down low) Cost me $20 to have the stuff welded, and tapped. And has cost me $250 in external oil lines, but that's including doing oil drain mods, which you'd be HIGHLY advised to do on the RB25 also...

I'm with GIO, and I just renewed with them. Even got them to lower the price even more then they already had... I'm covered for over $23 000 agreed value, but with EVERY little piece modified on my car listed. I can park it on the street, do what ever in it, my excess if an unlisted person drives it is like $5000... But other then that, not overly too bad. I went with them when I was 20. This is my second year. I was originally with Famous and WILL NOT go back there ever again. Bastards hiked my premium up, even though my NCB got better! Went from car had to be parked further then 500m away if not in my garage, to must be parked over 1KM away if not in my garage to be covered, excesses went up. Told them to shove it where it fit. Just Cars were pretty much a bunch of ass-wipes when I tried to deal with them. Next time I renew I'll be looking at Shannons or Lumley Special Vehicles. Shannons WERE going to insure me, even though I was under 25 due to a few good things for me... But the premium was still a little high, and the guy even told me to go with GIO Custom Car.

You guys obviously fail at budgetting hey? Put a bit of money aside each week and it pays for itself... Plus you get interest on it.

Should be ~240 - 250km/h. But it's ridiculous to want to get to those speeds anyway

Coil packs... Go buy some split fires, and regap out to 1.1mm.

Sounds head gaskety to me with the water issue. But the rattle sounds bearing.

Same thing man, 245/40/18... I couldn't quite remember the size you siad. On a low profile, really, 36PSi is the LOWEST you want to go. I HAD to run a set of Falkens at 32PSi before as I had severe straight line grip issues... Spoke to a person I know at a tyre shop, and they said they'd normally put them at 38PSi, if there's issues with wheel spin in a straight line under moderate throttle, they'd drop them to as low as 36PSi... Thye were a touch shocked when we had to get mine to run at 32PSi... Made cornering bullshit though... From memory I went back to 36... And it was purely that the tyres, even though low profile, just rolled around too much...

Motor sounds definitely fubar. Clunking, as mentioned, is generally bearings. If it's from down behind the plenum, it's not very likely to be a cam or anything up top, but one of the crank bearings.

For a set of 235/45/18s, get those pressures up near 38PSi. 34PSi is way under inflated for those tyres, and will be causing the tyre to wander around. It's a great pressure for drag racing, (Not really, I'd be going for alower pressure when dragging) but it's absolutely shit for cornering.

I'd have to say the only way you'll achieve this, is dump in the RB30 bottom end. It absolutely SHITS all over the RB25 and RB26 in terms of Torque, and can be revved out just as hard when built. OR, you can bump up your CR. But the bumped CR will NEVER get you any where near the torque of a streeted, basically nothing done RB30...

Check what the other gear ratios are in the gearbox on the VL and the R31 first, calculate what the final end ratio would be and make sure with your gearbox, and your new chosen diff, you'll get the same final end ratio.

It's in the Crank Strength and Upgrading thread in the RB30 section...

4.3's here... 1/4 Throttle + Wet + Rolling at 80 KM/H = Needing two lanes of the road...

Why do you gap down to 0.8mm? What sort of boost are you running? When I was smashing out to 19PSi, and hitting 11:1 AFR, gapped at 1.1mm, I didn't have a single issue of mis fire. If you have decent coil packs, keep the gap out large at 1.1mm to get a better flame front. Will give you a better burn. Obviously if you're running huge boost (2 Bar Superstar) you may need to gap down, but from what I've seen, even 1.1mm with 25PSi and splitfires = perfectly fine... Just wondering if you're gapping down to 0.8 from force of habit from doing it with shit coil packs on the RB25?

Mate, I did a ring landing, and valve, and the ONLY thing you could tell from it when it first let go, was that it had a SLIGHT miss to it at idle. That's it. Cat blocked, she'll still run fine. As to the cam timing, you can unplug it and it'll be fine. It only moves the cam a few degrees. Rule it out. Drop the exhaust, and run it on the dyno, is power back? No? Leave it off... Compression test motor, is comp down? No, move on. Pressure test whole inlet, is there a leak? No, Move on. Checked the cams? Haven't snapped one? Cars have seen to run but make no power with snapped cams before.

Block the gallery, and that's it. You'll want to convert to a non VVT cam though so you can put an adjustable cam gear on though.

The cops do do everything they can, but there's only so much they can do without a complaint being made against them... Back in the old days, if they thought they knew who had stolen it, they'd head around, haul them out the back of the station, and give em a kick up the arse until they actually admitted it, or were convinced that that suspect didn't (good enough reason to not get caught doing anything and become a suspect) These days, if they even questioned the person informally, they'd have there arses belted by a higher up management because the arse hole who stole your wallet thought he was getting unfairly treated because he got questioned. From what I last heard, the coppers were pretty darn sure they knew who had done the theft on my car, but they didn't have enough evidence to prove it. The only evidence they had, was the guys mobile phone, and the fact he has a history for doing it. But hey, he claims his phone was stolen and bam, he's home free... As to insurance, luckily for me, it was my old bomb, and not my Skyline, so only had third party property, but still managed to sell the wreck for more then I paid for it. Only thing was, it was a good ol car!

Thanks for the rims man! Good guy to deal with everyone!

Wing is sold... Sitting in my garage.

Things that affect cold start and running a lot is the temp sensor. Replace it anyway, it's only $60. Also clean out valves as suggested above.

If running a standard RB30 bottom end, I'd suggest spinning it to only about 7000RPM. 7500RPM max. The N1 turbos flow enough to make 320 odd AWKW on a 26, drop boost a few PSi, and with lower rev limit you'll make "less" power, but you should pull the same torque. hence, a less stressed engine.