MBS206

Lee, think of it this way. Power (HP/KW) is = RPM, * Torque / Constant. Or in simple terms, RPM * Torque (We don't need to worry about the constant whilst now working numerically. Now, you make the same power from your RB26 to a RB30 right. But your RB26 is being revved to 8000 - 9000RPM. Most of us rev the RB30 to an ABSOLUTE, maximum 7500RPM, Mines only going to be revved to 6500RPM... Yet, I'll make the same power... What does this mean... I'm actually producing more torque, and therefore, will have a quicker car. People need to learn to give no shit for peak power. It's all about the torque curve. Torque curve from an RB30 RULES the RB26 Torque Curve.

You have an air leak. You've most likely broken the gasket either between plenum and AAC valve, or the TB and plenum, or you haven't reconnected a pipe properly. Listen VERY closely for air leaks in whilst it's running, and use your hand to feel for them too.

I've had a whole car stolen and written... That's when you really feel like shit. What made it worse, because I'd been up till about 1AM, and didn't hear the coppers at 3AM trying to ring the house phone/knock on door, they thought I'd done it to begin with. I the end, with a window smashed, and wallet grabbed, the coppers really aren't paying much attention, because hell, what do you want them to do? They could quite easily take your car for about 2 days, fingerprint the shit out of it, then have it turn up with no fingerprints because all the f**ker did was smash a window and grab your wallet, and probably kicked your panels, not put his greasy hands on it. And even in the 1 in 100th chance they DO get a print of the guys, they need to then have the one in one millino chance, his finger prints, are in the database. So shit, would you like them to keep your car for 2 days, where you can't use it, or fix, and it is even more of a hinderance, or would you like them to be blunt, and just take the details down, and then have them go back to watching TV? And why does it take people so long to learn the trick of DON'T LEAVE VALUABLES IN THE CAR! There are signs up everywhere in most car parks, and the police once or twice a year make public announcements on TV (Usually around November/December too...) not to do it... So why do people still do it?

Check your water temp sensor. If it's f**king out, it can cause major issues like this.. Could also be dodgy knock sensors.

Take it from me mate. If you're on a budget now, you need to slow the build, built it once, build it right. DO NOT shortcut, or skimp out on things. Buy the good brand name gear, and forge it right away. If you really want to do it cheap, go buy a stockpile of RB30 blocks, and don't worry about rebuilding or breaking them...

How high do you plan for the spacer to be?

Blown cooler pipe.

+1

You want decent sized mufflers thrown on. Mid muffler, at least a 5" body on it, with fibreglass packing. Rear muffler at least a 7" body, you only want a 3" out let on it though. Fibreglass packing again. You also want them as long as possible, for both. Don't let anyone tell you it won't fit. I have photos of mine all fitted up, and running, with ZERO ground clearance issues. And REALLY quiet, and high flowing. If you need help with getting the exhaust done, PM me. And a good high flow cat.

Hey man, Not good to hear that Bezerkly has now closed. Any chance though, you could post up what things are actually needed to make this fit exactly? From what I read on another thread, it's new engine mounts, notching the cross member, gearbox mounts, and a new clutch master, plus the electrics, piping, and custom exhaust etc... Anything else you can enlighten me on?

From what I've seen, R33 VS R32 manual, = same diff ratio. This is from multiplewebsites I've read this... Also, if you're revving an R33 manual to 6500RPM, and want to get it out to that same speed as what you'd normally be at at 7000RPM, you want a 4.1 diff.

Pioneer only does it when the radio is on.

If you're blowing fuses, you've f**ked some electrics up somewhere, and hence, why it won't start.

Toffy, th eR33 RB25DET runs a 4.363 not a 4.1

The link you posted is accurate, except it gives all of it's speeds in MPH, not KMH, so you need to convert.

I can fit a decent esky in the 33, so long as I don't have sub + amp in there. If I mount the amp properly, it'll fit. But won't with amp+ sub floating... That, and I also have a rear seat to fit shit in...

R33 manuals run a 4.363:1 final drive. I think it becomes "slower" if you're running a larger turbo, as if you punch it at 2000RPM, it say might take an extra second to get into your boost range... Hence, you're slower to get moving.

If you're pulling it down, and rebuilding, don't put stock gear back in. Put in good H beam rods, good set of bearings, and some forged pistons. Then if you really want to play it "safe" stick to the same rules as have been stated above, and you should easily get 10+ years from it.

So you're saying your 4th gear (Top gear) in your auto, is a 1:1 gear? As 4th in the manuals is direct 1:1... If this is the case, you should already have lower then the 4.3:1 ratios. Also, from all my research, some of those numbers in the above table thing posted, are slightly wrong. Also, I believe it was Cubes who stuck some 3.9s into his RB30DET, and found it slower as it took longer to wind on boost. I believe he's now back on 4.363:1... You can do a search and find a very good thread with people who have actually done this, and I believe all of them have reverted back to stock diffs.

New coil packs, plus a new coil pack loom will most likely solve the issue...

He wasn't enquiring about the -7 he was asking about the -9 being a direct replacement.

Pull RB25 out. Replace with an LS1. Leave LS1 standard, be happy with around 180RWKW or maybe a touch more...

Actually, all he stated in his first post, that him running a FMIC was legal, and running a panel filter was legal, and that he wanted to keep it on the legal DB side... All 3 of these things apply to NSW as well. He didn't state at all that he could only do one intake mod only...

Do some resistance checks on the Engine temp sensor. It's in the top radiator pipe. The one with 2 pins. Make sure it's plugged in, if it is, make sure the resistances are correct for the temperatures (You'll have to search for what the resistance should be)

Mine used to feel the same when I was running that sort of boost. Would just snap from 6000 - 7000RPM, reason it was doing it like it was, was because between 4 - 5K, torque was coming on strong, but 5 - 6K I dropped off in power, then over the 6 - 7K range I was picking up 30 - 40RWKW within about 100RPM (6 - 6.1K) and it'd pull it's hardest to redline.