MBS206

Just put another RB20 box in... Should be able to pick one up for a couple of hundred, spend a weekend with a mate under the car. All done.

Okay guys, you're all noticing drops in engine temps (Bar Guilt Toy) so has it worried you that now your engine is not running at the temperature it was designed to? Maybe causing pre-mature wear? We all know it's bad to flog a "cold" engine, but is it bad to flog a cooler then normal temp engine? (IE, 10 - 15 degrees less?)

That's the one, can you PM me a price with shipping included to 2518?

Ethanol is ethanol... Or are you more concerned of the other 15%?

The fuel dampener, I can see it in one of the pics. How much for it?

on the exhaust side of the engine, on the actual side, but at the front, there is a big hexagonal "thing" which has an electrical connection. It sits just behind the back of the cam cover. You can see it without removing a single thing.

Dirt Garage: I think what Shanef is getting rather annoyed about, is the fact you keep talking up the Vi-Pec, when ever he asks for info why it's so much better, you just tell him to ring someone else... It's as though you don't understand why it is a technically more advanced ECU, and that shows that this ECU may not be technically more advanced. Give some actual info as to HOW it is so much better... Not just say "Ring so and so, they'll tell you" We want YOU to tell us, since you're pushing this product so hard...

If you have a pod filter (And even if you don't) clean your AFM. It'll help MAJORLY. Pod filters often are filled with oil, this sucks onto the AFM, and stops the air flow from cooling the hot wire, which makes the ECU think there is different amounts of air going in to what there is. To clean the IAC valve the easy way, go to Subaru, buy a can of Subaru upper engine cleaner. Follow the directions on the can.

Take a look at the Adaptronic, it's only downfalls I can see with the current e420c that people can pick up: In the GTR, it's not plug and play, you need to cut and solder the looms. It runs semi sequential injection, and wasted spark ignition. Doesnt' come with an IAT sensor ("downfall" since it's a map ECU) It has launch control (When you just switch to kill ignition, works very similar to anti-lag), traction control, flat shift, boost control, dual maps, MAP * TPS tuning (Perfect for ITB setups!) full support and upgrades from the people who make it themselves, it's 100% australian owned and backed, the BEST support you could ever get. Also a feature in the ECU to let you know if more ignition timing will make more power or less. (Is very handy when tuning for peak power on NA cars) RRP of ECU on last check $1000, RRP of loom was like $99 plus I think like $150 for a 3 bar map sensor... Adaptronic also have a new ECU due out very soon, that from what I've heard from testing, tunes take all of about 5 seconds to get a start up and make th ecar move tune... Couple with the auto tune feature the Vi-Pec is sporting for "30 minute tunes) that Adaptronic have been using for a few years now... You can be assured a sensational tune... In 30 minutes!

Yeah, basically a stock GOOD Nissan one... As for bubbling, you have air getting in somewhere... This is NOT good... I'd be looking at your heater core for the cabin, radiator cap, and then looking for BHG signs... PS: Pressure test will not show up the signs of a BHG... Mine went in 3 spots, from water gallery to cylinder, still held full pressure in the radiator for 5 minutes! Also check your over flow bottle... Make sure it's full... Something is definitely a miss, and I'd be getting nervous driving with 100degree water temps. You're running a forward facing plenum aren't you? So you no longer have the bleed point on the plenum... Also, Would it be possible for you to send me a copy of your ignition timing map for Petrol with RPM VS Boost. I want to tune my car possibly this week (If I can get the oil fitting I need) but am a bit onsure on ignition timing, and since I'm not running a PFC, I can't just "keep knock below 40" as my knock values are TOTALLY different ot that of a PFC... And when you tune for E85, without recalibrating your O2 sensor for the AFR of ethanol, do you just tune for the same AFRs etc. (14.7 as stoich, less then 12 for on boost power etc) Also, what AFR are you aiming for on petrol, when just cruising on the freeway?

Do you happen to have the fuel dampener? The one that sits on the drivers guard on the return line. Basically sits next to the fuel filter, looks like a fuel regulator, but has no vacuum line going to it, just a fuel in, and fuel out? I need that and the bracket holding it to the guard if you have it? PM me back if you do.

Top feed injectors, so much easier to change! Go with GTR rail! As to the coolant issue, just throw a thermo fan on instead!

When I did my sards, I found my 870cc came with the right o-rings, and hence, fitted in VERY tightly. As to the cap, I had to remove the little rubber bit in the cap end to make it fit on.

And IMO, they're shit. I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine. Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall. If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it. Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

GT: May I suggest attempting to swap your radiator for a stock Koyo one? Have seen issues from Alloy rads not dispersing heat properly. Either that, or chuck a volt meter in the coolant whilst engine is running, and against battery earth... Do not let the probe in the water touch metal of radiator. Then do a test from rad itself to battery neg... If you get a voltage usually about like 0.5Volts on either, throw an earth strap on the rad.

Who cares about the passengers... They're not paying for the fuel. It is a safety concern though if the driver is not comfortable. Plus, I can't sit my seat up any further, otherwise I hit my head on the roof...

Wow... It's like... The Fast and The Furious and Need For Speed Underground all rolled into one... And bought into reality...

Splitfires with 1.1mm gap works even better! Here's a question for you to think about... You pushed the car to 17PSi, and mis fires like mad... Yet your tuner told you it ran fine at 20PSi... Have you not yet thought he hasn't really tuned the car at all? Get the car on the dyno, do some light load testing, then some full throttle runs. You need to check your AFRs

And you pulled the 2% without putting a wide band on it? f**king smart... Get it on a dyno NOW and check the AFRs. Not "every" RB25 runs rich. Some have minor issues and make them run lean, although they seem to run perfect. Just guess working is bad

It'll get to around 4PSi as quickly as possible. The R33 actuators, are actually a 3PSi unit, so it will actually only get to 3PSi at the source of pressure. And it will do so as quickly as possible.

Go aftermarket with it man...

GT: Why are you getting such high temps in traffic with air con on? Limping along slowly with air con on, the standard cooling system should be more then capable of containing the water temps... Is your hydraulic fan on the way out or something? I know you have everything like air con condensor/FMIC etc in the way of the radiator, have you thought about setting up a "divider" to make sure the air that comes in the front bar HAS to go through the FMIC, radiator, etc?

Revs has told you there are fines against the car. The revs certification will only protect you against things that are not currently listed on said vehicle. The fines are listed, hence, revs cert will not protect you on them. You will have to ring the RTA to find out what that means.

Ah no, the stock ecu will keep injecting for the same amount of time, making the car run stupidly rich... Hence the OP would also be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

Some tuners actually know how to tune the Microtech to still retain normal economy. The problem is, most just tune the full tilt side of it.