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MBS206

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Everything posted by MBS206

  1. It's one of those features they put in Mac browsers to make up for the factor of not being able to press one button to right click...
  2. Had been doing an RB2530 backyard conversion on it... From 18 months ago now... The motor has had considerable problems, and just me being slow working on it etc, and getting piping all done. But got it all running, and late last year blew the head gasket apart. Guy I'd bought the motor from used an RB20 head instead of the RB25... So had to buy all new head and what not... Got all that on and sorted, car decided to catch fire (Hood lining dropped onto the turbo) Then I just got the shits with it, took it to Kon, got him to do a heap of flushing of fluids, major tune (Tune was going from a scaled tune from a 25DET with stock turbo to a 30DET with huge turbo and 850cc injectors) Also getting things like my power steering leak fixed up, all brakes bled in preparation for the track day on Friday, but last Friday the car decided to melt a coil pack. That's one of many things in a long list of very small setbacks for the last 18 months... LOL
  3. Looked nice and clean Luke, how'd you find dealing with Kon? I see your car got in after mine and beat me out... Bastardo! LOL Least yours doesn't crop up a billion issues... (My car has done it for 18months... LOL)
  4. I don't see how you're going to get more power from colder fuel? It means you could "theoretically" run smaller injectors, but if you cool the fuel, and inject for the same amount of time, you've just richened the engine up...
  5. I beleive the T88 is what a friend runs, Don't think it starts seeing boost until 5000RPM... That's ANY boost, still building boost at around 6000RPM...
  6. I never expected that out of you Dirt, since you seem to know everything about engines and what not. The reason I didn't expect it, is that DOHC and what not, are actually OLDER technology then pushrods.
  7. Does someone from here currently have a silver 33 Series two in at WAS for some work?
  8. You're the only person I've heard complain of the connectors. Have you given any feed back and then chased it up with Adaptronic? Please explain the "problems" these connectors have. Also, how does it become a "hobby" ecu compared to the Vipec, when it basically does everything the Vipec does, at much the same cost? Explain, in full details its downfalls against the Vipec.
  9. The ECU can easily alter fuelling. The difference being, when you tune a car to say 18PSi. with WOT, 16PSi at the same rev point, usually relates to a slightly closed throttle. 16PSi wot and 16 Psi partially closed are two different VEs on the motor. Not by much, but ever ever so slightly. Also, MAD082 may want to share what turbo he runs an aftermarket one can't handle running 2PSi more then it is set for...
  10. Mine comes on beautiful and strong. Set to come up to 14PSI, and it does that straight away, and not a single PSI over. EVER.
  11. 4 Injector outs, 3 Ignition. No issues with that, although the new one from memory is 12 injector outs and 8 ignition outs... Along with traction control, launch control, closed loop boost, auto tune features for fuel and an indicator setup to tell you if you'll get more power increasing or decreasing timing. Retard on knock as well as the ability to enrich or lean. closed loop idle, closed loop fuel, as well as adaptive fuel, logging features, duel maps (Flick a switch and it'll swap over) or if you run something like the GTR, Map X TPS X RPM tuning. Also has boost cuts, soft and hard rev limits, water temp adjustable rev limits (if it's cold, lower the rev limiter) as well as basically every other feature the Vipec has, as well as it being OWNED in Australia, 100% supported in Australia, and has been around longer and tested for longer. The only reason Vipec got such a "name" so fast, is because they worked on getting work shops promoting it. Adaptronic work on making their ECU better... And yes, the unit is plug and play for alot of the skylines.
  12. Define how you knocked every other ECU out at that price range? For the same price range, you have the Adaptronic ECU, that does everything the VIPEC does, and it is 100% local.
  13. They only take a few days to go through... Either way, it's only a $40 difference... One of these days normally would be $250 - $350... It's probably your last chance... Just do it!
  14. Head to Nissan. Order the whole VRS kit. Should cost roughly $300. Has all gaskets for top end. At the same time, get the nuts Then go to a performance shop, and get the SHORTENED version of the exhaust studs if running aftermarket mani If not, order them at nissan... Edit: Find a good nissan dealer, they'll be able to look the numbers up in their program.
  15. I don't have a single issue with running my pressure source from the manifold, and I know many people who do it also. And I have a light switch turbo, in the fact it's nothing nothingn othing everything all at once. Doesn't spike one bit. From down near the intercooler, I'd say is actually more hose then running straight across the firewall. Also, I didn't think the waste gate allowed the air from the pressure source line to "vent" to atmosphere. Therefore, pressure along that line should always be the same no matter what. Also, if your boost guage is T'd from before the cooler, how do you know how much boost you're running at the motor? Like my car runs a map sensor, so if I take my boost reading before the FMIC, where the temperature is roughly going to be the same (Hence, at same pressure etc, same amount of air is there) but my FMIC is working a lot better as it's colder, suddenly my motor sees 2 PSI less then I want it too, the MAP sensor picks up on this, and will make the car run in a different load point on the MAP... Shortening the engines life... And hey, I know I'd rather replace a $2000 turbo then a $7000 - $10000 motor... Also, if you're running that high up near the top of where you should be running the turbo, that pushing one or two more PSI is going to damage it, then really, you need to rethink your logic of choice of turbo, and pressure you're running... Also, are you saying your boost guage, you don't let it read into vacuum?
  16. I suggest taking it from the inlet manifold so that when you shut the throttle it slams the waste gate shut... Will help you tremendously in getting it spooling properly in the next gear, and then your EBC if you go to run one, will be taking the pressure source, from the point most people have their boost gauges running from...
  17. 2 pumps... No one way valve... When you turn one pump off, you do realise fuel flows BACKWARDS through the second pump right? In much the same fashion if one pump dies, it'll send fuel backwards out the dead pump, leaning your engine out? Very VERY bad idea for a fuel setup... Get ONE main pump. If it dies, at least the engine just turns off... It doesn't lean out.
  18. For all of you up for a bit of fun in the south coast region, who don't mind mingling with other kinds of car fold (IE, not just hanging with Nissans) check out www.southcoastcarscene.com/forum
  19. Typically you remove the whole boost controller as it is a bastard piece of shit really. (Although mine is still bolted to the firewall, it really is crap, and is disconnected)
  20. Turbo smart bleed valve has a TPiece in it correct? If it does, openit, remove the ball and spring, put it back together. (WITHOUT THE BALL AND SPRING) This thing holds the waste gate open. Had the same Boost Controller, had the EXACT same issue.
  21. Ha ha ha, yeah, I was looking at that too going "Hmm... Are you meant to bounce off obstacles and use the sand trap to get around this course quickly?"
  22. Is that picture saying take turn one at 190km/h?
  23. She's not building a streeter, she's building a show pony. Nothing more, nothing less. Oh, and MISSR34 did you ever find your missing KWs that your knock sensors were supposedly hiding... With your PFC and all that doesn't do anythign with the knock reading other then flash a light... See, we'll let that be lesson one for all the boys here. She WON'T listen to you, no matter what you tell her. Supposedly knock sensors caused her to be majorly down on power, whilst she ran a PFC... Oh, and she argued black and blue they were the fault...
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