MBS206

I was just about to send through a PM to see the best price on the Harness... LOL Better you buy it then me, I need to save more dollars.

I think you forgot to turn the page of the calendar...

You know what, I'll be there! WOO!!!

Only 25 hours? be a man and do 50!

I love these wheels... Have them in white but as the RG2s...

Yes

IMO, you'd be wasting your time on the dyno. If the car is misfiring, the fuel is not burning and using up oxygen, there fore, whether 10 litres of fuel is going down each cylinder per cycle, the car will read lean unfortunately. So, plugs have been changed, and coils have been changed. There is still a LOT of other things that can be done. Clean AFM for one. Check the temperature sender that goes to the ECU (The dash may read fine, but it comes from a different sender) Check the CAS too. It could be jumping around internally a bit as it accelerates. If you bring it on boost in 5th gear, does it do it exactly the same as in 1st gear? I'd also be checking all hose clamps, and EVERY air line (Not just intercooler, but all rubber ones too)

From what I've been told, you can spin a bearing from engine picking up revs far too quickly, with not quite enough oil pressure. Basically, the rate in which this engines revs when it breaks traction, under full boost it doesn't just "rev up" it just simple jumps from 4000 RPM to the rev limiter... Jump in RPM like that, but oil pressure lags behind slightly. In regards to this build, I've found the person I'm getting to build it. And very confident in it being done right. Now to just get up enough cash for parts and what not.

I don't see how it's a case closed... The ECU is getting a reading from the CAS that says the "Crank is at X degrees" From this, the ECU does some awesome maths and goes "I've worked out after Y time, it'll be at Z timing where I'll fire" Now, it's making it fire at "5 degrees BTDC" But this 5 degrees before TDC is in relation to the CAS. Which is able to be MOVED in relation to actual TDC. If you advance your CAS 10 Degrees, then add on the extra 5 degrees from the ECU, you'll have 15 degrees of actual ign timing. What you have to remember, is what the ECU is putting out, is in reference to the CAS position, which can be adjusted in reference to actual TDC. Your actual timing VS timing outputted via the ECU, are offset by how much the CAS is adjusted.

If we do that, I foresee that the sydney side peeps would join us too! +1 though if you wanna go group buy on Hotel Room. So long as it's cheap... I'm attempting to save for a new motor.

You should do some research on MissR34. She's been around a while, we correct her misinformed posts all the time, only to have her argue, we do it with tact, she still argues. Now we just shoot her down in flames. She shuts up for a couple of weeks, and then starts dribbling again. She doesn't leave. And I wouldn't want her to either. I'd just like her to learn, like we've all had to (And hell, I still get shot down with some of my stuff, and I go re-read, then research, then ask a few questions so I udnerstand it better)

Is that the one that is (Or at least was) covered in stickers and is around the keiraville/gwyneville area?

Go looks up all of MissR34's posts, not just in this thread. She is a "know it all" She's been in the FI area, asking for help, then telling people when they offer there help, she doesn't want to do things that way, because she knows a better way (Then why ask in the first place!) Also, the age old knock sensors loosing her power... LOL

Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488 We knew the torque, and at what RPM, and the 9.5488 is a fixed figure, therefore, we could calculate the power at peak Torque... Easy peasy. (to tell you the truth though, I just punched the numbers into an online calculator... ) But I do think MissR34 really should take her car to the track after she has claimed how fast it is... Just to prove it... Although, I honestly think she's too scared to find out it's slower then she and her fan base think it really is. And really, I don't care that it's NA, or how it's mod'd for looks (It ain't my cup of tea though) but what pisses me off is the damn owners attitude of "knowing it all"...

A car that is 10% heavier, so really, would work out with around 5% more torque. And I never claimed it was CONSIDERABLY faster. But I know exactly how a manual commodore gets up and moves, and how an auto one does (I used to own a VN Manual, and a VR Manual, and a VR Auto all V6) 0 - 100KM/H, The VN runs around in 8.1 seconds, R32 GTSt in 8... 1/4 mile, the VN in 15.7 seconds, R32 GTSt 15 Now notice how those times are so close, (the skyline being slightly faster?) now notice how I quoted times for the TURBO variants? How many of you can keep up in a straight line drag to your turbo counter part? MissR34, please, head to the Drag Strip, then PROVE to me, your car is quicker then a dead set stock standard CV8 Monaro... CV8 Monaro standard, runs a 14.7 second quarter mile... I went looking, and the only guys with NA Skylines who seem to talk about quarter mile experiences, are the R31 guys... And with a HEAP of work, they're only doing low to mid 14s... How you manage to keep up with a CV8 that'll do a high 14 with no issues, when you claim to not use your nitrous on the road... Also, everyone here is all about claiming they're quicker then a FAMILY SEDAN (Note, you're comparing a sports car, to a family sedan), and all about chasing KW numbers, yet, as soon as someone attempts to point out, that what you're claiming is pretty "trash talk" you all jump to the "You're just jealous, blah blah blah" point... Also, for those thinking they can keep up with the hypo cars, I had a guy claiming his NA skyline kept up with me so well off a set of lights... He got the shits when I actually gave it a bootful and left him for dead... Most days, the guys with super quick cars are only toying with you making you think you're "quick"...

HP and KW wins bragging rights at the bar... Torque wins races... VS 3.8L 304 Nm@3600 RPM - At peak torque KW = 114KW R33 RB25DE 255 N·m @ 4000 rpm - At peak torque KW = 106KW... See how the VS has 7% more power at peak torque compared to the R33, yet has 20% more torque at peak torque? You will find, most japanese and european cars make all their power through revs, not torque... American and Aussie cars are all about Torque. Oh, and take into account, 2nd gear comparison, an Auto Commo VS a manual Skyline, the commo has 65% longer 2nd gear then the R33... But drop back to the manual commodore and they go KM/H for KM/H... Yet the Commodore is still revving 1500RPM LOW... So it still runs, 27% longer gear ratios... Fits 5 people comfortably with luggage in the back, towing a trailer, and you barely notice it... Just to give you a bit more "comparison" I made 250RWKW on the dyno, took it to OP GP, had Brad (RISKIN) riding shotgun as instructor... His comment was that I hadmore straight line go then his 480KW GTR... His GTR is lighter then me too... So how would that work out if it's all about HP and KW? It's because Torque makes you go fast... Same reason V8s are doing the same times as us down the 1/4 mile, with 100KW less... My R33 when it ran the RB25DET in it, I could feel the added weight of 3 passengers... Yet alone the complete and utter lack of boot space, not to mention, I wouldn't tow on it! Oh, and when you get your 2.5L N/As making 250RWKW, come talk, we'll see who's still quicker... My turbo or your NA... (When you hit 250RWKW, see if you can start a rolling burnout at 130KM/H in 3rd gear, by ONLY accelerating... (No clutch kicking, nothing) and that's with warmed up tyres... On the track too...

We'll see closer to the date... But it's no meet and greet if I can't beer it up! May drive up for the foods and hellos. As long as people will be there like post 7:30...

I swear I responded to this! But I HATE living in Wollongong...

Does anyone know the old skyline that used to get around the gong, I think it was YPANIC?

The motor will be heading off to the machinists for all the regrind of the crank, and a rehone on the block and a bore to match the cylinders. In respect to the cause of dead bearing. It's appearing to me as a mixture of oil surge, and an over rev (Should have stayed up in 3rd gear instead of attempting to accelerate in 2nd, as 2nd just spun the wheels instantly). So I'll be looking to increase the volume of the sump, as well as baffle it (And a bigger oil pump). Now, by ensuring clearances and tolerances, you're talking plastiguaging the bearings etc? I've never done that before, so I have NFI on how to do it. Any one care to elaborate for me? And by build, yes, I mean assemble. Will be getting all machining done off at a workshop that specialises in it.

Hey guys, I've got an RB25/30DET in my R33 at the moment, Problem being, it decided to spin the big end bearing. What I want to do is pull it all out, and rebuild it. The biggest problem I have... I've never rebuilt an engine before. If following the manual, and doing everything slowly, are they really that hard to rebuild? Are there any special "tricks" to rebuilding the bottom end of an RB30?

There is also no actual LAW stating those warning signs for speed cameras have to be there. So you won't get away witht he "But there was only 2 speed warning signs" added to that, nearly every single one I've passed has a speed limit signed tacked onto the side of the speed camera warning one.

You know what's really pissing me off? The fact I have no car...

If you're using it for circuit work, the best way to keep it reliable, is to look at your oil supply. Engines are not a fan of oil surge, and these motors are known to surge on the track... Mine did...

It's an old hose, that is starting to dry up, and lose it's ability to seal. Time to replace.