MBS206

It'll get to around 4PSi as quickly as possible. The R33 actuators, are actually a 3PSi unit, so it will actually only get to 3PSi at the source of pressure. And it will do so as quickly as possible.

Go aftermarket with it man...

GT: Why are you getting such high temps in traffic with air con on? Limping along slowly with air con on, the standard cooling system should be more then capable of containing the water temps... Is your hydraulic fan on the way out or something? I know you have everything like air con condensor/FMIC etc in the way of the radiator, have you thought about setting up a "divider" to make sure the air that comes in the front bar HAS to go through the FMIC, radiator, etc?

Revs has told you there are fines against the car. The revs certification will only protect you against things that are not currently listed on said vehicle. The fines are listed, hence, revs cert will not protect you on them. You will have to ring the RTA to find out what that means.

Ah no, the stock ecu will keep injecting for the same amount of time, making the car run stupidly rich... Hence the OP would also be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

Some tuners actually know how to tune the Microtech to still retain normal economy. The problem is, most just tune the full tilt side of it.

+1 How did you put the boost controller in, and not wind it down to the lowest boost possible, and then slowly go up? Did you just chuck it in, and go nuts immediately just hoping it wasn't set to a higher boost then you could use?

Some people need to stop wearing so much nylon clothing, or dragging their feet on carpet...

Have you had the head off the block yet? Or is it still together?

Holmart is where I've been looking... At even attempting to some how fit the 6Speed manual in the trans tunnel too... As to my R33 being a weapon... It's slow compared to quite a few on this forum...

I drove around with my R33 for 12 months running: RB25DET. FMIC Turbo back exhaust. All metal piping from air filter to engine (Makes a difference ditching the rubber pipe to the turbo) light weight fly wheel, and 6 puck button clutch I also like to note I was running light weight racing rims. These do make a noticeable difference. And I had an Adaptronic e420c running the show (For the last 4 months of the twelve) and a manual bleed valve. And shocks I ran Bilstein aftermarket shocks. With GTS4 springs (Made it able to put power down in large sweepers better as the rear wanted to come around less) NOW: RB25 head, which has just been ported (And not yet put back together) RB30 bottom end. Just stock spec bottom end with ceramic coated pistons. 6Boost high mount mani. And a bit of a hybrid turbo, td07s housing with t04r comp wheel and a t66 exhaust wheel. Not the greatest setup turbo wise out there... But when it's on song... It hammers. Also have a Bosch 044 fuel pump and Sard 870CC injectors for fuel supply. Still running all the same clutch and ecu etc, just haven't yet had it fully tuned. I'll be retuning it myself once I finish bolting the head down. If I throw around 24 PSi down its throat, I should be able to rattle off around 370RWKW... But, my bottom end won't last long at that power level... I'm only tuning at 14PSi, and hoping to push around 300RWKW, or actually, with some slicks bolted on, I'm chasing down around a 125MPH trap speed... Which should get me in the mid to low 11s... But at 300RWKW... I'm going to be pushing it VERY hard... For the strip I may tune for 20PSi... Oh, also only running GTS-t suspension now... Haven't yet done the diff, but I have the lock bar sitting here to go in to remove my HICAS, and I'm contemplating pulling the diff at the same time and shimming it... As to buying an R33 or S15... They're awesome fun, and hell, the R33 has come down a SHITLOAD in price, to the point you can pick one up with loose change from behind the couch. I really can't knock em, they're a good package, just for chasing 1/4 miles, I'd rather a new V8... In all seriousness, I'd like the LS2 even just NA in my R33... Lowers my kerb weight by 40KG!

Oh, I know the V8 is a lot more expensive for the exhaust since you're looking at double the manifolds, so double the gaskets also, usually two cats, and as I prefer my V8 exhaust made... Dual system to the rear... Which is double the piping, double the mufflers... Double the price... I've seen I think the best of a 12.8@~110mph from a 33GTS-t. The big thing with it, as you said, is driver skill. The Ree with turbo back, CAI, FMIC and BC will be okay, so long as you set your boost on the dyno. Some stock R33 ecus run perfectly fine at 14PSi, where as others (like mine) shit them self, pull timing WAY back, and drop 30RWKW if you're running 10PSi... And the R33 will do it without slicks/MT Drag radials, so long as you have decent rubber, and a good driver. The big issue with the turbo cars for alot of people when launching, is they come off the line too soft. With an 8 it's not so much of an issue if you come off the line soft, as they still have low down grunt, but most turbos make all their punch up top... My R33 used to start to get moving at around 2500RPM, but REALLY didn't start to pull until 4500RPM when it switched over cam timing... So you come off the line a bit slow, and get caught down in the revs, you might as well re clutch it... In reality, if you want a good setup for chasing 1/4mile times, basically is a nice light car, good suspension, and I've seen the V8 seems to do it the best. Matching 1/4 mile times even across top end drag racers. When you get an identical ET, the turbo is generally 2 - 3 MPH quicker across the line then the V8... And you'll find on the rollers, the turbo is claiming more power, then the ET is actually showing up... This is all I'm trying to state... I love my I6T I really do... But when you crack the throttle at 3000RPM and you go "where's my power?" and then a second later as you start to climb past 4000RPM you're met with a real scream from the tyres as they attempt to fry... Whereas, from what I've seen, even in the big cammed 8s, at 3000RPM they're up in a VERY useable power band... (I'm talking the V8s running 10/11 second here)... The difference you'll still find, is sitting at 100km/h... That V8 is barely breaking 1500RPM... Whereas, my I6T is "cruising" at 2900RPM... Match the gearbox and diff from the I6T to the V8... Watch it be an awesome fun tyre tearer... Generally, the turbos are a very peaky motor, usually needing the tits revved off em, compared to an 8, where it's only really the modern V8s that go past 6000RPM (Street driven)... But hey, I'd still love the Best of both worlds... LS2+TT... (PS, If my RB30 bottom end shits it self, it's a VERY distinct possibility... ) Quenda... You're saying you highly doubt it... But, have you owned the RB25DET? I have... And I've replaced it with an RB30DET... Now it has torque, even when off boost, but waiting for boost to come, so I can actually get moving, is the issue... In 2nd gear, from 2500 - 4000RPM, a stock SV6 can sit side by side with me... Yet if I punch it in 3rd gear at 80KM/h, as I hit 90km/h and boost swings on I step out sideways... Yet a stock SV6 can roll on with me whilst I'm waiting for power to come in... And that's with the 3.0L... Edit2: The LS2 just incase you hadn't realised/neglected to mention, was also available in the late VZs...

2RISMO did it with gas also... Illegal for teh roads... And also needs constant refill which is constant money... Not sure how long his bottles last him. Flat 13... Tyres. - $700 ECU. - $2000 in and tuned for a "basic" ECU FMIC - $1200 installed Full Exhaust - $1000 Boost controller. - $400 Good driver. - Priceless... So over $4k to run flat 13. To get the power up to get extremely high 11s, you're looking at a new manifold, new turbo, and a new bottom end for a reliable high 11 second setup... New bottom end is around $6K in mods. New mani - $1100, new turbo $2000.... Plus you need the retune again, and you'd want to be looking at that suspension too as it's getting quite old and shagged. Forgot, cams too... And that's two of em that you need... That's $1000 alone before you even do the springs which need doing also, about another $400... Still need em installed too... All prices I've quoted for mani + turbo, is excluding labour, and the little things like $300 in oil lines and gaskets... Then there's the diff that's going to need locking, another $1000... As to that $600 for an OTR CAI, that's still a huge rip off. You could get a good setup in for $200. Full exhaust system on an 8, including mufflers I was quoted $1300... Then the need for extractors, was $400 each... So less then $3000, and that was fitted. Drive in, Drive out. From what I've seen with driveability of the LS2 and L98 on a HUGE cam... There isn't much of a driveability issue... The huge displacement just allows them to still get up and moving from idle. And the R33s trapping a flat 13 are showing normally around 200RWKW, and hitting the line at 110MPH... You will find, especially if you're used to V8s, what the imports lay down in MPH compared to their dyno graph, the dyno graph is usually 100HP odd inflated. I used to argue the same until I did ALOT of digging. For the same MPH, the V8s just manage to run around 0.3 - 0.5 seconds on the ET quicker when you're talking up near the 11 second bracket. Oh, as for driveability... Get stuck any where below the 3500RPM mark and you're sitting there going "Is that an excel over taking me?"

You need to venture into Robertson itself. There's a small cake shop in there.

If only you were in gong... And I wasn't losing my garage...

Quenda, don't know where you're pulling your figures from... But $3K for a cam... Um, that's an INSANE price to pay for one. Only some hippy weed munching idiot would be paying $3k alone for a cam. http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=58304 See in there... It's $3300 at a very expensive tuning house to have the Cam you've chosen be supplied, fitted, AND tuned... So your $1000 tune just simply disappears. And paying $600 for an OTR CAI is like the guys on here paying HUGE money for "HKS/APEXI/SomeJapBrand" CAI when you can simply make one yourself, or get a cheap version for $50... And as for that tuning house one running the 10.87... I've seen the dyno graph... Power BAND from 2700RPM - 7200RPM... and the amount of torque it had below 2700RPM was still rather impressive. I'll try and dig it up... Also, it was running a manual, not an auto. And why is it, that there are Cam + tune only LS1s out there (Privately owned) running 11s? I'm not talking tuning house. I'm talking privately owned cars. In full street trim. As for comparing RWKW from a I6T to a V8NA... Find mt what a 260RWKW R32 runs... or an R33... Then compare it to how much power you say is needed by a V8 to match (300RWKW wasn't it?) and then watch one do the same time, with the same power instead of needing 40RWKW more... PS, the link below shows a car, who's quoted kerb weight is in the high 1800KG... Yet it's running higih 10s... What'd happen if we stripped it back down to an R33 GTS-t weight, or even better, down to an R32 GTS-t weight? http://www.gmmotorsport.com/gm_mrsls1.shtml You guys have to remember, a V8 delivers power TOTALLY different to how a I6T does... They don't need as much power to run the same times. They have area under the torque curve. And f**k me, everyone on here keeps claiming it's the area under that torque curve that WINS races... That cars mods are: GMM Custom TK Cam, GMM Pushrods, GMM Custom Cold Air Intake & GMM Custom Maf Tune, Di Fillippo 4 into 1 headers and Twin 3" Di Fillippo Exhaust It's also the one that ran 10.87 in full street trim... Notice how the POWER curve is basically a nice 45 degree angle? That is basically saying, the torque it's making down low, is EXACLTY the same amount of torque it's making up top... In other words... That would be an awesome car to drive on the street... No lag, no power holes... Also, I hear a 350-370RWKW R33 GTS-t is what, about a mid - to low 11 second car... Then why are the 8s, which are also heavier, dropping into the 10s... http://www.gmmotorsport.com/gm_rippin.shtml (And look at the car above again...) Oh, that's with the 5.7L, yes, with a bit more work done on it, so yes that one would be a bit expensive... But what I'm trying to point out, they don't NEED to make the power to run the times... There cars run the same, if not quicker times, with 100HP less... Oh, just one last one... 260 RWKW = 11.4@117MPH... Yet a 240RWKW R32 is crossing at what 105mph?110mph? But doing what, lazy mid to high 12s... Yep... I'm sure your 240RWKW R32 will keep with "newer" V8s...

The one thing Terry has left out. Mac Pass: If travelling it over late Autumn/Winter/Early spring, be VERY VERY VERY careful of black ice. f**k being worried about the wet leaves. The black ice WILL take you out. If travelling these areas of a night, or around dawn/dusk, be VERY careful of Wombats... I've nearly written a car off up there trying to dodge a Wombat that would have definitely killed me. Also, be very careful of Kangaroos. If you decide to go up near Mt Keira, the warning used to be of a late afternoon or in the night be ware of the deer, but it's now a matter of what ever time of day it is, be ware of deer (I nearly took one out up there around 2 weeks at 1PM...) A friend lives just at the bottom of the start of the "no house" area of Mt Keira, and they constantly have deer around there... Also, there's a few corners on Mt Keira, that look nice and good on camber left handers that dip down, and as you hit the apex dip back up (And make for excellent cornering speed) be EXTREMELY careful of these, as they are often VERY slippery as water sits here, and moss builds. The 3rd corner before the turn off to the first look out (Coming from the bottom) is very bad for this... I know quite a few people who've come off bikes on this corner, and I have spun into the cliff face myself writing a car off... Be very careful! If you don't know either of these two roads, do NOT hammer up them the first time, take a scenic driver, there are some massive bumps that throw you in/out of the corners quite violently that if you don't know how to take, often land you in a tree, cliff, or oncoming traffic. Especially the one on Mt Keira just past I think it's the Scout Camp... Tristian you fool, Robbo pie shop is actually terribly shit. Especially compared to Alb Pk Rail pie shop, OR compared to the REAL Robertson Pie shop. Any one who thinks those pies are good, has never had a decent pie!

The advantage of the welded/spooled diff, is you KNOW everytime you give it a hit around a corner, both wheels are going to spin. With an LSD, the LSD picks and chooses if it'll single spin, or double... My R33 is horrible for this. Give it a big kick in the guts, it'll single, so you just keep turning normally, then it'll double up step you out sideways so you have to throw a heap of anti lock at it, and then it decides to single again, and you guessed it, your front wheels are now pointed the wrong way... I've also came through the same corner, mearly a minute after I went through last time. First time I went through it basically slightly singled. Came through the second time and instead it decides it wants a massive double coming out... With the locker/spool/welded diff, you'll NEVER have to worry about single wheeling occasions. LSDs wear out, and when they wear, they become unpredictable.

It may have cost you 30K more to throw into the R32, but what you have to think about, the guys attempting to compare, an old car, to a new car. AND he was attempting to take a modified car, which has NOTHING you can really level it against without him properly running it down the quarter and getting times. Hence, to "level" it back up, you need to throw the extra money at the new V8, OR leave the R32 stock. Oh, and you may want to check out the price of SS now... They have come down a fair bit BRAND NEW with the economic crisis... As to the guy who spent 6.5K and failed to get over 270RWKW, go call GM Motorsport RIGHT NOW, ask them what they can net you 1/4mile wise, and power wise, (The quickest) with just the basics of a 4-1 Exhaust, and a cam and a tune. You may well be surprised, especially since they're GUARANTEEING their work last time I read... I think you got jipped mate...

Ceramic exhaust wheels hate these things... The heat put out from the raw flame passing them is ALOT hotter, then just the exhaust gas... Also, raw fuel in exhaust = terrible for Cats...

LOL @ all the people in this thread so wound up about how "great" imports are... Seriously, go start comparing the power levels of V8s and their MPH at the drag strip (And 1/4 mile times too!) then do it with the Import turbos... Better yet, enter any turbos data into the calculators out there for working out MPH and ET, then laugh at how far slower they really are... Seriously, if in 6 months time my RB30 bottom end blows in my R33, it's coming out, and in will go an LS2... I took a VE SS (STOCK) for a test run when I had just the RB25 in my R33... The ability to light the tyres up 1000RPM just by squeezing the throttle... Yeah... It kinda shocked me... The V8 just kept on pulling the whole way through the rev range... There was no "waiting" for boost, it just pulled the same the whole way... And it was quicker... Now then, lets take this simple R32 that's pushing 240RWKW... and throw the same amount of money at a VE SS... So turbo + mani = what let's say $2500... FMIC - $600 Injectors - $800 ECU + tune - $1500... So we've spent $4400... And you're running what sort of time? In the 12s? New VE SS... Spend that on the SS, and you should be cranking High 10s... GM Motorsport did just this... Cam package, tune, and things like filters etc... In an auto... High 10s... (10.87 to be exact @ 128MPH) So,will your R32 with the same amount of money spent on it keep up with a new V8 is a much better question... And simply, NO.

PSI: For working out the best fuel economy, you will need to know what your cars drag coefficient through air is at 100km/h. This can be easily found out, by looking at your ECU and finding out what RPM you're sitting at, then seeing how much throttle you're applying and wack the car on the dyno, apply the same amount of throttle, and hold it at that RPM... That's how much power you need to apply to keep the vehicle cruising at 100km/h... Then you'll need to look at your torque curve... And some funky trial and error on some calculations to get to a point, where at 100km/h, you're still making the same amount of POWER at the wheels, but dropping into a region that has a better DC... Be aware, when doing a DECREASE in diff ratio, you CAN increase fuel economy, if the motor begins to labour...

The only thing that affects tunes, is if the car isn't tuned 100%. IE, it's not just about setting up your fuel and ignition maps, you need to adjust trim over different temperatures etc. Obviously, on an AFM car, if tuned in summer, when driving in winter you will hit certain points on the map that are untuned, as you can draw in more cold air and get to different load cells. Hence, it's all about getting a competent tuner. Not sure how GT does his, as I haven't spoken to him, and for this reason, I couldn't just turn my car over to him. BUT, in saying that, give me half an hour of his time, and my arsenal of queries and questions, and I'm sure he'd have my car keys in one hand and driving off... As it is, I plan to query him on setting up an ignition map soon.

Erm... That tells me you want to reduce from 18mm to 12mm... And most likely the thread pitch is 1.25mm... Go back to bunnings...

NSW clearly states, in VSI 06 (Search for it on the RTA website) that emissions must meet that of whichever is NEWER. IE, LS6 into HQ = Meets LS6 emissions. Old 350 into a new VE Commodore, = Meets VE Commodore emissions. The VSI 06 document clearly states this, and as we know, it's much easier to get a new engine and keep it at its emissions standard, rather then bring an old engine up to new standards. Hence why most people claim that you can only put an engine into a different car if the engine is newer then the car... As it's simpler, and they have NFI...