MBS206

If you have a pod filter (And even if you don't) clean your AFM. It'll help MAJORLY. Pod filters often are filled with oil, this sucks onto the AFM, and stops the air flow from cooling the hot wire, which makes the ECU think there is different amounts of air going in to what there is. To clean the IAC valve the easy way, go to Subaru, buy a can of Subaru upper engine cleaner. Follow the directions on the can.

Take a look at the Adaptronic, it's only downfalls I can see with the current e420c that people can pick up: In the GTR, it's not plug and play, you need to cut and solder the looms. It runs semi sequential injection, and wasted spark ignition. Doesnt' come with an IAT sensor ("downfall" since it's a map ECU) It has launch control (When you just switch to kill ignition, works very similar to anti-lag), traction control, flat shift, boost control, dual maps, MAP * TPS tuning (Perfect for ITB setups!) full support and upgrades from the people who make it themselves, it's 100% australian owned and backed, the BEST support you could ever get. Also a feature in the ECU to let you know if more ignition timing will make more power or less. (Is very handy when tuning for peak power on NA cars) RRP of ECU on last check $1000, RRP of loom was like $99 plus I think like $150 for a 3 bar map sensor... Adaptronic also have a new ECU due out very soon, that from what I've heard from testing, tunes take all of about 5 seconds to get a start up and make th ecar move tune... Couple with the auto tune feature the Vi-Pec is sporting for "30 minute tunes) that Adaptronic have been using for a few years now... You can be assured a sensational tune... In 30 minutes!

Yeah, basically a stock GOOD Nissan one... As for bubbling, you have air getting in somewhere... This is NOT good... I'd be looking at your heater core for the cabin, radiator cap, and then looking for BHG signs... PS: Pressure test will not show up the signs of a BHG... Mine went in 3 spots, from water gallery to cylinder, still held full pressure in the radiator for 5 minutes! Also check your over flow bottle... Make sure it's full... Something is definitely a miss, and I'd be getting nervous driving with 100degree water temps. You're running a forward facing plenum aren't you? So you no longer have the bleed point on the plenum... Also, Would it be possible for you to send me a copy of your ignition timing map for Petrol with RPM VS Boost. I want to tune my car possibly this week (If I can get the oil fitting I need) but am a bit onsure on ignition timing, and since I'm not running a PFC, I can't just "keep knock below 40" as my knock values are TOTALLY different ot that of a PFC... And when you tune for E85, without recalibrating your O2 sensor for the AFR of ethanol, do you just tune for the same AFRs etc. (14.7 as stoich, less then 12 for on boost power etc) Also, what AFR are you aiming for on petrol, when just cruising on the freeway?

Do you happen to have the fuel dampener? The one that sits on the drivers guard on the return line. Basically sits next to the fuel filter, looks like a fuel regulator, but has no vacuum line going to it, just a fuel in, and fuel out? I need that and the bracket holding it to the guard if you have it? PM me back if you do.

Top feed injectors, so much easier to change! Go with GTR rail! As to the coolant issue, just throw a thermo fan on instead!

When I did my sards, I found my 870cc came with the right o-rings, and hence, fitted in VERY tightly. As to the cap, I had to remove the little rubber bit in the cap end to make it fit on.

And IMO, they're shit. I have one on my R33... There is NO CHANCE you can ever fit the 90 degree bend whilst the head is in place, without unbolting the engine mounts and lowering the engine. Once you have it on, it sits in the way of the heat hoses, and then, still sits hard against the firewall. If I had my time again, I wouldn't do it. Forgot to mention, I'm only running the dash 8... No idea how the people with Dash 10s fitted theirs!

GT: May I suggest attempting to swap your radiator for a stock Koyo one? Have seen issues from Alloy rads not dispersing heat properly. Either that, or chuck a volt meter in the coolant whilst engine is running, and against battery earth... Do not let the probe in the water touch metal of radiator. Then do a test from rad itself to battery neg... If you get a voltage usually about like 0.5Volts on either, throw an earth strap on the rad.

Who cares about the passengers... They're not paying for the fuel. It is a safety concern though if the driver is not comfortable. Plus, I can't sit my seat up any further, otherwise I hit my head on the roof...

Wow... It's like... The Fast and The Furious and Need For Speed Underground all rolled into one... And bought into reality...

Splitfires with 1.1mm gap works even better! Here's a question for you to think about... You pushed the car to 17PSi, and mis fires like mad... Yet your tuner told you it ran fine at 20PSi... Have you not yet thought he hasn't really tuned the car at all? Get the car on the dyno, do some light load testing, then some full throttle runs. You need to check your AFRs

And you pulled the 2% without putting a wide band on it? f**king smart... Get it on a dyno NOW and check the AFRs. Not "every" RB25 runs rich. Some have minor issues and make them run lean, although they seem to run perfect. Just guess working is bad

It'll get to around 4PSi as quickly as possible. The R33 actuators, are actually a 3PSi unit, so it will actually only get to 3PSi at the source of pressure. And it will do so as quickly as possible.

Go aftermarket with it man...

GT: Why are you getting such high temps in traffic with air con on? Limping along slowly with air con on, the standard cooling system should be more then capable of containing the water temps... Is your hydraulic fan on the way out or something? I know you have everything like air con condensor/FMIC etc in the way of the radiator, have you thought about setting up a "divider" to make sure the air that comes in the front bar HAS to go through the FMIC, radiator, etc?

Revs has told you there are fines against the car. The revs certification will only protect you against things that are not currently listed on said vehicle. The fines are listed, hence, revs cert will not protect you on them. You will have to ring the RTA to find out what that means.

Ah no, the stock ecu will keep injecting for the same amount of time, making the car run stupidly rich... Hence the OP would also be looking at an aftermarket ECU.

Some tuners actually know how to tune the Microtech to still retain normal economy. The problem is, most just tune the full tilt side of it.

+1 How did you put the boost controller in, and not wind it down to the lowest boost possible, and then slowly go up? Did you just chuck it in, and go nuts immediately just hoping it wasn't set to a higher boost then you could use?

Some people need to stop wearing so much nylon clothing, or dragging their feet on carpet...

Have you had the head off the block yet? Or is it still together?

Holmart is where I've been looking... At even attempting to some how fit the 6Speed manual in the trans tunnel too... As to my R33 being a weapon... It's slow compared to quite a few on this forum...

I drove around with my R33 for 12 months running: RB25DET. FMIC Turbo back exhaust. All metal piping from air filter to engine (Makes a difference ditching the rubber pipe to the turbo) light weight fly wheel, and 6 puck button clutch I also like to note I was running light weight racing rims. These do make a noticeable difference. And I had an Adaptronic e420c running the show (For the last 4 months of the twelve) and a manual bleed valve. And shocks I ran Bilstein aftermarket shocks. With GTS4 springs (Made it able to put power down in large sweepers better as the rear wanted to come around less) NOW: RB25 head, which has just been ported (And not yet put back together) RB30 bottom end. Just stock spec bottom end with ceramic coated pistons. 6Boost high mount mani. And a bit of a hybrid turbo, td07s housing with t04r comp wheel and a t66 exhaust wheel. Not the greatest setup turbo wise out there... But when it's on song... It hammers. Also have a Bosch 044 fuel pump and Sard 870CC injectors for fuel supply. Still running all the same clutch and ecu etc, just haven't yet had it fully tuned. I'll be retuning it myself once I finish bolting the head down. If I throw around 24 PSi down its throat, I should be able to rattle off around 370RWKW... But, my bottom end won't last long at that power level... I'm only tuning at 14PSi, and hoping to push around 300RWKW, or actually, with some slicks bolted on, I'm chasing down around a 125MPH trap speed... Which should get me in the mid to low 11s... But at 300RWKW... I'm going to be pushing it VERY hard... For the strip I may tune for 20PSi... Oh, also only running GTS-t suspension now... Haven't yet done the diff, but I have the lock bar sitting here to go in to remove my HICAS, and I'm contemplating pulling the diff at the same time and shimming it... As to buying an R33 or S15... They're awesome fun, and hell, the R33 has come down a SHITLOAD in price, to the point you can pick one up with loose change from behind the couch. I really can't knock em, they're a good package, just for chasing 1/4 miles, I'd rather a new V8... In all seriousness, I'd like the LS2 even just NA in my R33... Lowers my kerb weight by 40KG!

Oh, I know the V8 is a lot more expensive for the exhaust since you're looking at double the manifolds, so double the gaskets also, usually two cats, and as I prefer my V8 exhaust made... Dual system to the rear... Which is double the piping, double the mufflers... Double the price... I've seen I think the best of a 12.8@~110mph from a 33GTS-t. The big thing with it, as you said, is driver skill. The Ree with turbo back, CAI, FMIC and BC will be okay, so long as you set your boost on the dyno. Some stock R33 ecus run perfectly fine at 14PSi, where as others (like mine) shit them self, pull timing WAY back, and drop 30RWKW if you're running 10PSi... And the R33 will do it without slicks/MT Drag radials, so long as you have decent rubber, and a good driver. The big issue with the turbo cars for alot of people when launching, is they come off the line too soft. With an 8 it's not so much of an issue if you come off the line soft, as they still have low down grunt, but most turbos make all their punch up top... My R33 used to start to get moving at around 2500RPM, but REALLY didn't start to pull until 4500RPM when it switched over cam timing... So you come off the line a bit slow, and get caught down in the revs, you might as well re clutch it... In reality, if you want a good setup for chasing 1/4mile times, basically is a nice light car, good suspension, and I've seen the V8 seems to do it the best. Matching 1/4 mile times even across top end drag racers. When you get an identical ET, the turbo is generally 2 - 3 MPH quicker across the line then the V8... And you'll find on the rollers, the turbo is claiming more power, then the ET is actually showing up... This is all I'm trying to state... I love my I6T I really do... But when you crack the throttle at 3000RPM and you go "where's my power?" and then a second later as you start to climb past 4000RPM you're met with a real scream from the tyres as they attempt to fry... Whereas, from what I've seen, even in the big cammed 8s, at 3000RPM they're up in a VERY useable power band... (I'm talking the V8s running 10/11 second here)... The difference you'll still find, is sitting at 100km/h... That V8 is barely breaking 1500RPM... Whereas, my I6T is "cruising" at 2900RPM... Match the gearbox and diff from the I6T to the V8... Watch it be an awesome fun tyre tearer... Generally, the turbos are a very peaky motor, usually needing the tits revved off em, compared to an 8, where it's only really the modern V8s that go past 6000RPM (Street driven)... But hey, I'd still love the Best of both worlds... LS2+TT... (PS, If my RB30 bottom end shits it self, it's a VERY distinct possibility... ) Quenda... You're saying you highly doubt it... But, have you owned the RB25DET? I have... And I've replaced it with an RB30DET... Now it has torque, even when off boost, but waiting for boost to come, so I can actually get moving, is the issue... In 2nd gear, from 2500 - 4000RPM, a stock SV6 can sit side by side with me... Yet if I punch it in 3rd gear at 80KM/h, as I hit 90km/h and boost swings on I step out sideways... Yet a stock SV6 can roll on with me whilst I'm waiting for power to come in... And that's with the 3.0L... Edit2: The LS2 just incase you hadn't realised/neglected to mention, was also available in the late VZs...

2RISMO did it with gas also... Illegal for teh roads... And also needs constant refill which is constant money... Not sure how long his bottles last him. Flat 13... Tyres. - $700 ECU. - $2000 in and tuned for a "basic" ECU FMIC - $1200 installed Full Exhaust - $1000 Boost controller. - $400 Good driver. - Priceless... So over $4k to run flat 13. To get the power up to get extremely high 11s, you're looking at a new manifold, new turbo, and a new bottom end for a reliable high 11 second setup... New bottom end is around $6K in mods. New mani - $1100, new turbo $2000.... Plus you need the retune again, and you'd want to be looking at that suspension too as it's getting quite old and shagged. Forgot, cams too... And that's two of em that you need... That's $1000 alone before you even do the springs which need doing also, about another $400... Still need em installed too... All prices I've quoted for mani + turbo, is excluding labour, and the little things like $300 in oil lines and gaskets... Then there's the diff that's going to need locking, another $1000... As to that $600 for an OTR CAI, that's still a huge rip off. You could get a good setup in for $200. Full exhaust system on an 8, including mufflers I was quoted $1300... Then the need for extractors, was $400 each... So less then $3000, and that was fitted. Drive in, Drive out. From what I've seen with driveability of the LS2 and L98 on a HUGE cam... There isn't much of a driveability issue... The huge displacement just allows them to still get up and moving from idle. And the R33s trapping a flat 13 are showing normally around 200RWKW, and hitting the line at 110MPH... You will find, especially if you're used to V8s, what the imports lay down in MPH compared to their dyno graph, the dyno graph is usually 100HP odd inflated. I used to argue the same until I did ALOT of digging. For the same MPH, the V8s just manage to run around 0.3 - 0.5 seconds on the ET quicker when you're talking up near the 11 second bracket. Oh, as for driveability... Get stuck any where below the 3500RPM mark and you're sitting there going "Is that an excel over taking me?"