MBS206

I have loud as shit induction noise while I'm still at 10mmHg! You don't even wanna hear it when it comes on boost! It sounds like a pure animal if you're driving alone beside it. Mind you, 3" stainless pipe from motor to filter helps with this... Then I must also have a "noisy" pod...

What's boost? I rarely use it... Probably about once a day I hit it, and it's due to a VERY poorly designed on ramp near me, speeds usually drop to 40 odd km/h in a 90 zone... Using 3rd gear I pull onto the outer lane with a decent amount of throttle (Mind you, I do it in a safe gap too!) and that's normally only low boost too. I rarely hit full boost, maybe once or twice a week. I just baby it, it's driven daily, and there's no need to hit full boost on the way to work.

No, every single car will do it. It's just slightly unburnt fuel in the chamber exiting and igniting in the exhaust.

Get a serious cat. Don't know what I'm on about, google serious cat.

It's not your actual clutch? The only real way to find out is to open the engine up. Hope you've got a good wallet when you do.

Sid, get ahold of the small electronic box thing that is sitting at the back of the coil packs, try one of those. It's more likely dead then wiring. (And easier to replace IMO

Sounds like a boost leak or gasket blown

Thanks Jonn PM me with the results, as I'm interested in the engine. Can you also find out how much shipping would be to move the motor from Perth to Sydney (Specific post code is 2518) Thanks

The only multi meter I can think of off the top of my head is the Fluke 87 to detect if you have spark, as it has a min/max range.The time that the pulse is for, is VERY minimal, and the gap between pulses is MUCH MUCH larger then the gap of the pulse. Hence, a multimeter (Average one) will just read 0V whilst that wire is pulsing away. Try hooking a led light with resistor in series with it across the + and - terminals and see if it is dimly lit (Use aronud a 600 Ohm resistor in series with the led light.) Also make sure you hook the led light up in the correct orientation to avoid blowing the led light. But you MIGHT be able to see a dimly lit led light this way. (This is also a slightly inconclusive test as you may not see it, but it's still pulsing) The only true way is to use a CRO. Also do a resistance check from one end of the loom to the opposite end of the wire. If the reading is < 0.7Ohm, the loom is fine.

I wasn't having a go, but it was unclear if the new engine was worked, or another stocker. hence the reason for questioning.

You won't get to read a voltage on that wire unless you have a CRO It is a VERY short burst to trigger the coil to ignite (I beleive it grounds it actually.) You would need to look at the wave form on a CRO to see if anything is happening. Have you done a compression check? Don't just immediately blame electricals. So far the check you have done is inconclusive.

So the reason for the new RB26DETT? Strange to just "Swap engines" Have you had the compression check done yet?

Bump

Make: Nissan Model: Skyline Series 1 1994 Milage: 160 000 Transmission:Manual Colour: White Location: Wollongong (NSW) Complied: Yes RWC supplied: Not required Currently registered: Yes Price: $12 000 Contact: 0406 962 347 Comments / Modifications: Turbo back 3" Exhaust FMIC with 3" intake from throttle body to air filter. K&N Pod filter boxed. Type M front bumper with intercooler cutout. Light weight flywheel Button clutch Advan RG2 lightweight wheels. (235/45/17 Front, 255/40/17 Rear) Adaptronic e420c ECU with 3 bar map sensor. Tuned Splitfire Coilpacks Bilstein shocks. GTS4 Springs Tinted windows Car comes with aftermarket lowered springs (not fitted) Engineers certificate and exhaust DB readout comes with car. Regd till Feb 08 Images: Pictures:

So then, a reading of > 120 should be ignored... A question, if it is something else causing it, why when I add more fuel in, drop the ignition timing, the knock value lowers it self to a respectable level?

wouldn't be a turbo issue. It'll be something else. Do you have a atmo BOV?

Adaptronic e420c for an ECU Around $1300 should have it at your door. Plug it straight in, no need to upgrade AFM as it comes with a 3 bar map sensor. I've got a tune on my ECU that would run your car, and be quite reasonable on fuel (I'm tuned rich) (It won't control the auto though) As for 12PSi to make 200RWKW, I did it on 10PSi... So I dunno what you're on about there.

Flow less. Are a POS. Mate has a chaser, stock turbo, with exhaust and FMIC, it peaks out of flow at around 5500RPM.

Still have front bar with foggies? PM me if you will seperate the foggies from the front bar and how much you want.

The "Y piece" off the suspension. Is this for front passenger/driver? It's the top piece yes?

A mates old unit had a security gate, wasn't too bad except for the breaking every second day, but the safety release wasn't a handle, you needed to open a door thing up, and then use a ratchet piece to crank the gate open... Do it from outside and it'd break your arm! Mind you, people just used to climb through the break in the fence!

If they have a buzzer, they'll be back. Get the cars out ASAP

92 and 96db is also not quiet. Considering legal is 90db

An engineer? Depends where you live and what's done really.

I thought the GTR was going to be running an auto only. Hence all the comments on clutch dumps, and the syncros "breaking" etc, are a bit useless... Correct if wrong. And the only real issue with the GTR is the damn asking price!