MBS206

Did you pull the cas out and actually check it? It's very unlikely the cat fouling will make it skip a tooth. Have you replaced the actual fouled cat yet?

CAS okay? Is it loose? Pull it out, make sure the little teeth inside aren't all chewed out. (Be aware, when you put this back in, you'll need to reset the timing.)

Another idea might be, instead of returning the fuel from the fuel rail to the surge tank... Return it to the actual fuel tank. As to the conservation of power. WTF? I've never heard of "the conservation of power" Power, in an electrical sense is purely dictated by P=VI, that is, Power, in watts, is equal to Volts, times by Amps. And your voltage is given as V = IR, that is, voltage, is equal to amps, multiplied by resistance in ohms. The ONLY reason I can see it being an issue, is that the voltage is generally dropped from 12volts, down to 7, via an inline resistor... Hence, your total current flow is limited, and it might not be enough to start the pump at 7volts... I'll go back over your diagram and see what the go is... Edit: Can you draw me up a full wiring diagram of how you have this? Your first diagram is abit ambiguous. Also, you say the pump primed, and then stopped... Have you attempted to START the car? Not sure if you realised, when you first click to "On" the car will only flick the fuel pump on for 3 seconds I beleive it is, at which point, it shuts off again until you start to get the engine cranking...

I can't quite understand what you're getting at with a current increase in lowering the voltage... If you do that, you'd be breaking the laws of electricity! The fuel pump is affectively an electric motor. Once the pump is up at speed, you have basically 0 amps flowing (Due to a back EMF) When you just slam 12V straight to the pump, the moment you hit it with 12V, is when you actually get your largest amount of current flowing. As the motor winds up, resistance inside it increases affectively (It really doesn't, but the back EMF acts as a resistance) causing the current to drop off. (It's more complicated then that, but, that is affectively how it works in simpleton rules) When you put 12V on this pump, you get approximately 12V back EMF (12 volts attempting to flow the backward direction) if there's no load. Apply a small load, and the back EMF drops. So you'll have a couple of volts across the pump. If you put 7 Volts on the pump, you'll get approximately 7Volts back emf, or a few less volts when loaded. Now, seeing as the resistance of the pump really does stay the same. Pretending the pump has a 1Ohm resistance, at 12Volts, you have 12amps flowing... Now drop your voltage to 7Volts, and all of a sudden you have 7amps... Notice how the current has dropped as the voltage drops? Hence, you don't have an "increase in current" from everything that I can pick up from this setup. If you did... I'd be worried, as your current is dictated by the resistance, and the voltage... Increase resistance, current drops. Decrease voltage, current drops... In this system, for comparing the 7VS12 volts, the resistance can be quoted as constant. Lastly, noise... The Bosch 044 is NOT a noisy pump when mounted correctly. It's all about removing vibration... I have mine mounted in tank. The pump is completely isolated from touching everything else with rubber. Including the inlet and outlet, which have rubber hoses on them... The intank setup posted earlier, had a nice rubber mount for the pump, but, it's issue was the nice solid metal joint, going to the surge tank... All the vibration just transmit through that... The only time I can hear my 044 is when the car nearly stalls (Churning over at 300 - 400RPM) as the exhaust noise goes to basically NOTHING. And only then, is it a slight whine that I can hear... Either that or stand beside the rear wheel on drivers side, and there's a slight noise too... That's it... No need to slow it down, I run mine at full battery voltage 24/7

Go to work, ring up from work, book car in. Drop car off one morning before work, pick car up that afternoon after work. Where was time off?

Even once the coilpacks are "coated in silicon" the car will fart and miss above 5000RPM if you gap is at 1.1mm WHERE IT IS MEANT TO BE! Once you chuck the Splitfires in, (Or even BRAND NEW stock coilpacks) you will be able to gap plugs to 1.1mm AND rev to redline perfectly cleanly, producing a better flame front in your engine. Technically, from what I can gather, it will also allow you to run slightly more advanced timing when you do the tune, as you have a wider initial flame front. Hence @ 1.1mm you should be able to make more power cleanly...

Item:RB25DET + Jatco 4Speed Shift Kitted Age:Motor is a 1994 build, Gearbox unsure of year. Condition:Motor has low comp on Cyl 3, no accesorys on it, no coilpacks, no harmonic balancer. Still has turbo, exhaust mani, and intake mani. Gearbox was rebuilt not long before I bought it with a shift kit. I have not ran this gearbox, as I decided to stick with my manual, hence I can't vouch for it 100%. Price:$1000 for the lot. To Fit: (What car)R33, and the gearbox will fit an R33 also, and also a VLT. May also fit R32 and R34. Will bolt to any RB motor. Also has torque convertor and required bits. Location:Wollongong (Just south of Sydney) NSW Contact:0406 962 347 or PM. Comments:I'd really like these GONE asap. Hence the low price, of $1000 for EVERYTHING. Turbo alone is around $350, as it has no shaft play, plus an RB25DET head at AT LEAST $300 worth, another $300 in RB25 block. PLUS for an extra $50 you're getting a good auto 4 speed for drag racing.

Flash the ECU for codes... I bet it gives an ID 107 error... Seriously, it's your wiring. How are you joining the wires? Twist and tape?

Send it to the inlet piping PRE turbo, POST AFM. It's illegal to run a car with an atmospheric catch can as well.

Bleed your cooling system, with your heater turned on. You have air in the heater box in side the car by the sounds of it. Then just get a normal service. Edit: Injectors are usually noisy too I've found on most Skylines, and "tick" quite loudly.

Washers under the bonnet are your friend... Actually, on this topic, I want to lower my RB25/30 that resides in my R33 GTS-t... What engine mounts can I go out and buy, that will directly bolt in, and lower the motor down?

$350 is pretty cheap for such a computer... Have receipts?

Exhaust is sold. I still have the Turbo, and motor here. Make an offer, I'd like these gone ASAP

The air hoses will hold full tank pressure with out going bang. We run ours at tank pressure of 180PSi.

Echo...

What he said ^^^

Still have motor, turbo and exhaust.

Are all the plugs done back up on the fuel pump? ALL of them? What process did you go through when removing the old pump? (EVERYTHING)

You're buying injectors, a fuel pump, and reg, for $1200? Go get the prices for them new first... Injectors, $790 for Sard 550s. FP: 220 Will get you a new Bosch 044 (Which will supply you PLENTY of fuel) Reg: $200 That's $1190 brand new... Hence, you'd be paying $10 less for it all! Where's the cheap part?

What you actually want, is your pressure source from POST intercooler, how it is on an R32. The R33 takes pressure pre intercooler. Then you get a pressure drop when "cooling" it all down. R32 go post intercooler, and you'll get a "cooled" 10PSi. What your boost guage is reading is a 10PSi charge that has been cooled, and hence, you're getting 3PSi... My pressure source is straight off the manifold. Much better...

Look up the Lexus ISF. Toyota is in talks at the moment with Japan to get it in Aust. 400 or 500 odd BHP. Cheaper then an M3 and the AMG merc. And quicker. Whilst heavier then the M3, and only pushing 3 more KW (100KG heavier) it does 0 - 100 from memory 0.3 seconds quicker... 8 speed flappy paddle...

Offers

Go to the very first post in the thread. There's a link at the bottom of the first post. Open it. Then there's al ink to the DOHC guide. Also read Cobra's

Geoff! AWESOME MAN! That's a huge help. WIll be going down soon to attack it. Hopfully have it all back together tonight...

About the same that high power RB30DETs do to them...