MBS206

I have the exact same issue. Especially the reversing and then braking issue. My wheel alignment guy found the problem. My front upper control arm bush was shot, allowing the control arm to float backwards and forwards into the car body. He noticed it via the tiny amount of rust where it was hitting and slight scraping/ding.

17mm Hg, my 33 idles at 20 - 21 mm Hg, and so do a shit load others I've seen... Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere personally. Also, ditch all the little tuneable things, and get one big tuneable thing. As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up. That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC

I might meet you guys there if I remember.

If you still have motor, box, ecu and loom when you're about to send it to the wreckers, let me know.

I'll rebuild it for $2000. *Gets out sledgehammer, gaffer tape, super glue and 100 sheets of paper for gasket material*

Clamping brake lines, just like fuel lines can be dangerous. They are known to split. Personally, if you're going to clamp them, be prepared to replace them. As for the shims. They are only used to prevent brake squeel. There's no worry at all if you don't run them.

How much boost are you running? Does the GTSlink only run one rev limiter? There's no soft limiter? No boost cut? No flat shift limiter? When it hits the "rev limit" (What you're currently experiencing) is it like a miss fire? If it's getting richer and richer, why don't you try leaning it out? ( by rich I'm assuming you're talking 10:1 or 11:1)

Intake plenum with throttle bodies sold with the head I'm guessing?

Targa Tas

srs. coilovers (good ones) are often worth a mint.

Hey all I need to find somewhere that does the front, passenger side, upper control arm, forward bush, where the control arm goes onto the car body. My bush has decided to die, enabling the upper control arm to "float" forwards and backwards. I have been quoted $200 for this bush alone, from pedders. And find this an unbeleiveable price. So, are there any others?

Sounds like crap tyres. I'm running a GTS-t R33 with GTS4 springs in it. So stiffer springs in the front, which will create more understeer then stock springs. And it only MILDLY understeers. To me, it also sounds like poor driving (I'm not having a go, I used to do it too) It sounds like your starting to feather the throttle way to early (I internally yell at myself everytime I take a corner so that I don't do it) As you start to feather that throttle, you're lifting weight off the front tyres. Which is reducing traction. Keep off the throttle till you're through the corner further, wait until you can SEE where you want to go, and then start to wind the throttle open. And no, more throttle does NOT equal oversteer. Go do a skid pan day. It lowers the grip limits immensely (On concrete) and it shows you exactly how the car handles under breaking and stepping on the throttle and different amounts of steering (No, more steering won't make you turn in further all the time!) But a start: Get some grippy tyres.

To test it, you really need the car to be misbehaving under "normal" conditions to begin with.

Without viewing video. I'm thinking: Remote turbo location. Somewhere near the rear of the car. Think lag. Cops will just follow long piping and find it. Plus your car is turbo from factory I'm assuming (GTS-t) so if you take the turbo off, the car is STILL on the banned list (As all of a sudden you've done an engine performance modification.)

The whole in the boost controller, is to allow air to escape when you close the throttle. This then allows the wastegate to close again. Also, if your boost is dropping 5PSi, it isn't the hole doing that. That's ALOT of pressure to loose through a tiny hole. By a 5psi drop, the spring and ball should have closed, all air should vent out, allowing the wastegate to close, and boost to climb again. It sounds more like your turbo can't keep up.

If it leans out. You could blow the motor. If there's too much timing, it could detonate the engine.

Drive around with it cold Let it run like a billy goat. As soon as it gets good, jump out of the car. Unplug the Coolant temp sensor that heads to the ECU. This is the plug that sits on the top radiator hose, and has TWO wires going to it. See if it runs like a dog or not. If it does, most likely CTS.

Did it happen as soon as you serviced it? Sounds like coil/plug break down.

Copied from another site PSI HKPA 14 0.966 14.25 0.98325 14.5 1.0005 14.75 1.01775 15 1.035 15.25 1.05225 15.5 1.0695 15.75 1.08675 16 1.104 16.25 1.12125 16.5 1.1385 16.75 1.15575 17 1.173 17.25 1.19025 17.5 1.2075 17.75 1.22475 18 1.242 18.25 1.25925 18.5 1.2765 18.75 1.29375 19 1.311 19.25 1.32825 19.5 1.3455 19.75 1.36275 20 1.38

Sounds like a wiring issue. Car is actually making boost right? Now, you have an external boost guage right? And it shows 6PSi? If you get the car to say 3PSi, does the AVC-R read 00mm-hg or does it actually read something less? If it's less then it sounds like a setup issue. If it's 00mm-hg, then it sounds like the boost sensor is sending out the same signal as soon as it hits boost. Like it's maxing out.Strange.

Your understeer could also be that your car may want a little less front camber once that tyre has heated up. Generally, if a tyre gets too hot, it gets slippery. Not sure at what temp this will occur on a slick.

I'm running stock GTS-4 springs all round in my GTS25t The front sits slightly higher then what a stock GTS-t would, on the road, I actually quite like it. Slightly stiffer front, induces slight touch of understeer as I'm feeding on power out of long sweepers (On the road), stomp on the gas, and it'll still want to get that nice over steery ness though...

Not quite more angle = more downforce. You should find max downforce would be at around 45Degrees. Going much further past this, and you will get less downforce, and more drag The downforce should be something of a pure sine graph. Downforce = Sin(x) Whilst the drag will become Drag = Sin(x/2) This is why pure race cars are tuned, and a trade off is found with the minimal amount of downforce they will accept, and the max drag they will accept.

Hey guys, Really want to try and get this car gone by this Thursday. (Then I can get back enough money on my insurance) Has rego until 4/1/08 Just ring/SMS me (I won't be able to take a call/respond until after 1PM on Saturday *16/6/07*)

Mild steel 3" from turbo. Good cat, resonator at the middle, and high flow rear muffler. It's "legal" My old system was the same except for a 3" cannon on the rear, which put me at 95DBa @ 4000 RPM