MBS206

Yes

Been thinking CC GSR Looks like an ordinary lancer. Exhaust (quiet) and boost. Mid 13s should be there Little bit more work, and scare the hell out of most people out there who think it's "just another prancer"

rear diff?

I have them on my Supra. Only time they get turned on is when it is: a) Foggy, b) Rainy c) Some idiot came up behind me with his on, so I get behind him and flick them on and off. I hate people who have them on, unless they're needed! They're just wanker lights. Also, there IS a difference in driving lights and fog lights Fog lights: Yellow lense, low power, used to cut through fog to give better visibility, able to be turnt on and off WITHOUT headlights being on. Driving lights: White lense, generally high power (Except in wanker cars like SS commodores etc). These lights by ADR/Law are only meant to be able to be turned on whilst your HIGH BEAMS are on. FYI: It is a $75 or $77 offence in NSW to have your fog lights on when not needed. Having driving lights on is the same offence as not dipping your high beams. You have been warned.

I like lumpy idle... Put them in the other way around... SK: What is stock duration on an R33 GTR and stock on GTS-t

Sell intake manifold seperate? If so, PM me

Just go full aftermarket ECU if the ECU in there is the culprit. Also if it's a "drifters" ecu, I'd be checking everything is A-okay in the car.

Did I call BS at all on his figure? I just asked fot IT and AT and the other factors. And as always, I couldn't give 2 shits about a dyno figure. They mean nothing. Driveability and the proper ability to make use of said power is the key. Plus, the main thing is area under the curve.

What were the IT and AT like? On DD readouts, it's usually all down the bottom so you get the whole picture...

Do them then Sounds like it isn't burning fuel correctly.

Price?

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.p...;highlight=dyno

Yes, it's an old thread, I know, I was looking for something else entirely (looking for dyno graphs from a certain workshop to compare with) Anyway, I noticed on the first dyno graph that has been posted, the car has been run in the wrong shootout mode. This WILL affect your power read out. The car should have been run in Shoot_6F, not Shoot_6. This affects ramp rating, and internal measurements etc.

Running a pod filter that uses oil? Clean your AFM with electrical contact cleaner. Post mods too.

So, does anyone else have one? Just picked my car up today off of Andy (He's a friend) and just wondering if anyone else had bought one of these ECU's and had it installed. Personally I like the ECU, I think it runs quite well, but alas, it is like every ECU, your tuner needs to know it. But yeah, anyone want to share ECU files etc for something with stock turbo, stock fuel side of things, exhaust, FMIC and boosted? (I'm tuned to 12PSi, running at 10PSi)

Two front shocks? What condition are they in? Is there a car that's had rear end damage, as i see on the first post, your car has front damage, but you say you're wrecking two cars.

Including shocks sold?

It's to do with torque and how much pressure is being created outwards on the outer surface with the interference fit.

Had a quick look around, can't seem to find what I need to "fix" this bug (Although I doubted I can, as I'm client side) But I've attempted to go to paullr33.skylinesaustralia.com (Unsure if that is 100% correct, I followed the link in his sig) to visit his site, and I am getting an error that looks like this. Any chance someone can have a look at this as from what I read somewhere on this site in one of Pranks posts or blogs, this issue has supposedly been fixed. Note: I get it on multiple computers.

Okay guys, I've been PM'd the info that I needed, and for those in the future who want this info. The fuel pump runs at dual stage, just connect the fuel pump relay wire will give you low speed. From the info I was sent, grounding pin 104 sends the pump into high speed mode, delivering more fuel. Will let you know on Saturday night how I go. This can be locked now if the mods want. Matt

Advantage of a screamer pipe: The police can locate you from 2 states away. They have a huge fine that goes with them as well.

No sorry, I'm trying to work out how to adjust my aftermarket ECUs wiring, to enable me to get an AFR richer then 13:1 when the injectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Alrighty guys and girls. Putting an ECU into my car, and have come across a problem whilst tuning. At 5000RPM, 10.5PSi, my AFR (On a wideband 02) is going to the maximum richness of 13:1 (WOAH, thats bad!) Now, car is running stock fuel pump, stock fuel reg, stock injectors. Fuel pump is wired up using the fuel pump relay pin on the stock wiring loom, but from what I can gather, there is another circuit in there also, that enables the fuel pump to enter a faster running state. Now, from what I can see from wiring diagrams, this is something like pin 106, but the issue is, I would like to know how the stock ECU operates this. Does it: a) Provide 12Volts when the higher state is required? b) Ground out the wire, when the higher state is required? I know that this can be tested, but I can't get to the car right now, and won't be able to for a little while, and was just wanting some knowledge on how this setup operates. Also: At the moment, I would prefer to NOT be going to do the fuel pump direct feed mod that is written in the FAQ section. So please, don't mention it. And don't mention, "get a bigger pump" etc as this isn't the pump, or fuel systems limit. The stock ECU, at the same boost pressure sees AFRs around 10.5:1 - 11:1 so it seems to be that the whole fuelling side of the car, I'm not quite understanding (Electrically on the fuel pump itself) Any help on how this system works?

I've been on the skid pan, I know how much fun it is, even if you're "3 seconds slower"! (That's f**k ALL over such a long distance) and it's so hella fun, plus everytime you turn the key to head out, you learn something new about your vehicles handling technique.

KeyMaker: Not having a go at you. IMO if a hand controller is supplied, with the ability to tune, you should be able to tune the ECU through it, and it should be made to be done fairly easy. Yes, the handcontroller is great for checking sensors etc, but the ECU I'm about to install, I plug the laptop in, hit one key, and I have my sensors. Not quite as "great" and "easy" as the PFC, but if I'm diagnosing my ECU/Engine, I like screen captures. Again, Datalogit can most likely do it, but then, what is the point of the hand controller? Sales gimmick?