MBS206

Thanks Jonn PM me with the results, as I'm interested in the engine. Can you also find out how much shipping would be to move the motor from Perth to Sydney (Specific post code is 2518) Thanks

The only multi meter I can think of off the top of my head is the Fluke 87 to detect if you have spark, as it has a min/max range.The time that the pulse is for, is VERY minimal, and the gap between pulses is MUCH MUCH larger then the gap of the pulse. Hence, a multimeter (Average one) will just read 0V whilst that wire is pulsing away. Try hooking a led light with resistor in series with it across the + and - terminals and see if it is dimly lit (Use aronud a 600 Ohm resistor in series with the led light.) Also make sure you hook the led light up in the correct orientation to avoid blowing the led light. But you MIGHT be able to see a dimly lit led light this way. (This is also a slightly inconclusive test as you may not see it, but it's still pulsing) The only true way is to use a CRO. Also do a resistance check from one end of the loom to the opposite end of the wire. If the reading is < 0.7Ohm, the loom is fine.

I wasn't having a go, but it was unclear if the new engine was worked, or another stocker. hence the reason for questioning.

You won't get to read a voltage on that wire unless you have a CRO It is a VERY short burst to trigger the coil to ignite (I beleive it grounds it actually.) You would need to look at the wave form on a CRO to see if anything is happening. Have you done a compression check? Don't just immediately blame electricals. So far the check you have done is inconclusive.

So the reason for the new RB26DETT? Strange to just "Swap engines" Have you had the compression check done yet?

Bump

Make: Nissan Model: Skyline Series 1 1994 Milage: 160 000 Transmission:Manual Colour: White Location: Wollongong (NSW) Complied: Yes RWC supplied: Not required Currently registered: Yes Price: $12 000 Contact: 0406 962 347 Comments / Modifications: Turbo back 3" Exhaust FMIC with 3" intake from throttle body to air filter. K&N Pod filter boxed. Type M front bumper with intercooler cutout. Light weight flywheel Button clutch Advan RG2 lightweight wheels. (235/45/17 Front, 255/40/17 Rear) Adaptronic e420c ECU with 3 bar map sensor. Tuned Splitfire Coilpacks Bilstein shocks. GTS4 Springs Tinted windows Car comes with aftermarket lowered springs (not fitted) Engineers certificate and exhaust DB readout comes with car. Regd till Feb 08 Images: Pictures:

So then, a reading of > 120 should be ignored... A question, if it is something else causing it, why when I add more fuel in, drop the ignition timing, the knock value lowers it self to a respectable level?

wouldn't be a turbo issue. It'll be something else. Do you have a atmo BOV?

Adaptronic e420c for an ECU Around $1300 should have it at your door. Plug it straight in, no need to upgrade AFM as it comes with a 3 bar map sensor. I've got a tune on my ECU that would run your car, and be quite reasonable on fuel (I'm tuned rich) (It won't control the auto though) As for 12PSi to make 200RWKW, I did it on 10PSi... So I dunno what you're on about there.

Flow less. Are a POS. Mate has a chaser, stock turbo, with exhaust and FMIC, it peaks out of flow at around 5500RPM.

Still have front bar with foggies? PM me if you will seperate the foggies from the front bar and how much you want.

The "Y piece" off the suspension. Is this for front passenger/driver? It's the top piece yes?

A mates old unit had a security gate, wasn't too bad except for the breaking every second day, but the safety release wasn't a handle, you needed to open a door thing up, and then use a ratchet piece to crank the gate open... Do it from outside and it'd break your arm! Mind you, people just used to climb through the break in the fence!

If they have a buzzer, they'll be back. Get the cars out ASAP

92 and 96db is also not quiet. Considering legal is 90db

An engineer? Depends where you live and what's done really.

I thought the GTR was going to be running an auto only. Hence all the comments on clutch dumps, and the syncros "breaking" etc, are a bit useless... Correct if wrong. And the only real issue with the GTR is the damn asking price!

WTF state are you living in? If the cop ticks "Full inspection" and you don't get a full inspection, the RTA can throw you straight back out, and if the inspector isn't careful, have his inspection licence revoked. There is a box for "partial inspection" I'd like to see this piece of law that supposedly says if you don't have steering/major components. The reason for a full inspection, is because the copper isn't knowledgeable enough on that area, so they send it to someone who is properly certified, and does it for a living, for them to pick it apart. If they say it's safe and fine, then the coppers are happy.

Okay prices: Identity check, safety check - including defect notice clearance, adjustment of records and LPG/CNG, if required: $48.70 Review of engineering certificate (design check) $34.20 If you want details of the place, let me know. If you are prepared to bring it down, be prepared to spend a WHOLE DAY down here... (Doesn't take him that long to go over it, just you drop it off at 9AM pick it up at 5PM and sometime during then he does it... That's the one thing that bugged me) Where my mate went, for just a defect clearance (Was full AUVIS inspection also) cost him $50, they did it there and then. Unfortunately they're VERY strict on stuff, and car must be in tip top shape. With mine, I got nocked back on the intercooler hose coming through the guard, hence me engineering it.

It's the price we pay in Wollongong.In Unanderra (Suburb of W'Gong for those not sure) I paid $50 for mine, plus $35 for eng cert added, and a mate paid $50 just recently (4 months ago) for a blue slip in the middle of wollongong. And no, not a pink slip. Both of these were required as full inspections after defects. I'll go grab my papers from the car now, I think it has price on it. Also, I'm thinking of PM'ing you in a minute re: GTR

Interested in swap for anything? PM price on shell + engine/g/box supplied with.

As a factory turbo owner you'll want to upgrade the turbos diff anyway. They just single leg too much at this age. Compression ratio, only a slight change from what I've seen, nothing to worry about. On the N/A engine, keep boost around 7PSi on a free flowing exhaust, other wise you WILL hit R&R and ONLY run it on 98 fuel. GTS-t HATE 95 fuel (Experience here) Braking department, it's a good opportunity to upgrade anyway. Stock internals should hold easily with just stock /high flow on the side. Longevity of a DE+T will all be about driver abuse. At the end of the day, rebuild it, and it'll be just as tough as a fully built DET Edit: My opinion, keep the R33S2 GTS for a daily run around. Go and buy an R33 S1/2 GTS-t for cheap as, keep it as a weekend car. The price that you pay for them now is basically nothing. Might as well get both. Then when the performer dies, you've still got a good daily.

May cost different depending on where you go. Last blueslip I got was $50, and then cost me another $35 I think it was to attach an engineers cert. After my blueslip, I avoid having to get them done!

You can go alot leaner then 12s as well if you want to, just need to watch your ign advance.