bubba

NGK BCP6ES-11, not BCRP (the R is for the resister type). Also, what is the condition of the plugs on the coil harness?

Is it actually spiking? (if so, to what?) Or, is the boost falling off? What does it do with no % increase?

Pretty easy, IIRC it's only about half a dozen screws. Just make sure you don't snap the needle on the end of the speedo cable when you're putting the new cluster in

324mm DBA4000's on front with 33 calipers (using adapter brackets), Ferodo DS2500 pads, braided lines, master cyl. stopper. Stops on a dime, even for street driving the extra confidence of the bigger brakes is great.

No sweat mate, I just didn't think there were any gearbox changes between series 1 and 2 R33's so a "series 2" gearbox is really just going to be newer than a "series 1". I know they changed with the R34 though. My "uknown series" 25 box is going strong and has taken all the abuse dealt so far. We'll see how it goes in a few months with ~550rwhp!

I think Castlemaine Rodshop do mounts for RB30 into LC/J.

So the box was out of a series 2 R33, not a "series 2" gearbox?

lol sounds like a spaceship!

+1. If you really want to spend some money, look at getting your stock manifold extrude-honed.

vh is a nissan v8 the uz (1UZ/2UZ/3UZ) is a toyota v8

Thanks mate, should be interesting with an extra 300hp P.S. the dosing on the VL's would get SOOOOOOOOOOOO annoying!

syfon I managed to download it off my youtube account, PM me you email addres if you want

Pfft, I just run a metal pod filter and an ARC bov wound up really tight (had to wind it up so tight to stop it from letting air out at idle).

Too hard, just watch it when you get home

The rail is like AU$240 I think, twin entry to suit 14mm o-rings and RB20 manifold. I have a custom plenum with RB20 runners and seeing as no-one answered my question about RB26 rails onto RB20 runners, I kept looking for an RB20 specific item.

At the end of the clip where I take off slowly, is that the sound you're talking about?

Pop the boot and look under the carpet. It will be just to the side of the spare wheel well, need a special tool (or a screwdriver and a hammer) to get the cap off. If you have a search through the DIY/Tut sections, there should be writeups on how to change the fuel pump (which you shuold probably do while you're there aswell).

tuffcarparts is where I got them from, probably are alright but getting them flowtested anyway so I can hand my tuner known numbers and also so I can stagger them so highest flowing is at the back as I'm going to forward facing plenum. Any 14mm fuel rail should be fine yeah? found an RB20 14mm rail on tweakit that I think is going to be the go.

My 1000cc Rochester injectors arrived yesterday and I've sent them off to be flow tested (just a little concerned about the lack of packaging, each injector was in a small ziplock bag with all 6 just throw loose into a postbag).

We cut them back a little bit shorter than yours, a 25 plenum would have been a bit nicer to line up but the 20 plenum has the runners (particularly the last two) come out at funny angles. I haven't bothered to clean it up too much yet as the overlap is on the plenum side so there's no real restriction in the runners. When I eventually decide to go bigger cams and do some headwork, I'll make the inside of the runners all nice like and match the ports to the head. Only thing left to figure out is what angle to bring the water outlet out on.. gotta wait for my throttlebody to arrive though so I can make sure I miss it

Don't lump me in with that complaining lot John

sci2000tech, that's similar to what I have done minus the ITB's as I'm going Q45 t/b. We found the RB20 runners and the GTR plenum runners didn't line up too well so #1 and #6 were were heated and bent slightly and then a happy medium was found. The good thing was the GTR runner are significantly smaller than the RB20 runners which helped when lining them up.

Nice work.

I think that's the money winner right there.

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