Blue32

El bumpo - still looking!

Thanks for organising the group buy Madaz - top effort! I have transferred the $453 - $165 for the GTR and $253 for the 160kw 3.5 litre ball tearing front drive tow car Verada - the Grandpa pack edition. I'll let you know when I can get down to do the job - the 'minister for war and finance' may want to have the ball tearer done a little earlier but the R will definately be late Jan / Feb some time. Thankyou again, Andrew Blue32

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Just to clarify - I'm happy to pay now and have it done when I return? Any chance of that happening?

I want to get my GTR done as well as my daily - KF Verada (magna) wagon? How much would this be? I am overseas till mid January so can I still get it done when I get back? Good work on the group tint buy by the way

Been a while - any updates? Just got a bunch of new bits for the beast and once installed keen to give 'em a testing.......

Guilt-toy: The gasket was $105 delivered from www.shopx.com.au I am mildly skeptical as to the results I might see from this gasket - but can't hurt to try I guess! With the std intake air temp, I think something that really lets it down is the abililty to shed heat from the sensor itself. It really seems to slow to react to temp change. I know when I start the engine, after it has heat soaked, the sensor is reading quite high, but after a minute or so of running (especially driving) the temps of the air charge entering the engine should be much closer to ambient plus a little bit (depending on intercooler efficiency etc) and not linger around the ambient plus 40 or 50 that it does. At least by moving the sensor to the cooler outlet pipe, it won't be so susceptible to this, therefore running a more accurate intake temp vs ignition correction? Thoughts?

I run the D-jetro on my RB26 - I find I have no dramas at all, runs well, was easy to tune, comes with a base map etc. Common misconception is that you have to remove the inlet manifold. I can confirm this is NOT the case - I have my MAP sensors connected via a T piece to a vacuum feed on the inlet manifold and it runs fine. Talking with the guys at Willal racing, this is exactly what they do and haven't found any differences over running it this way vs drill and tapping fittings into the runners. Benefits on the d jetro - removing the AFM removes inlet restrictions, also there is obviously no need to upgrade your AFM's once you max them out so that saves you quite a conserable amount of $$. Economy - I am still obtaining 400 - 430 kms per tank around town running 340 rwkws and have seen 500+ open road. I don't exactly drive it all that economically either - (what point is horsepower if you don't use it?) I just figured that $$L Jetro + 2xAFMs + tune > Djetro + tune + sell AFMs (its a big difference, trust me) If you have any questions let me know - happy to answer them.

Ah - the dreaded heat soak issue! I have had an issue with my PWR FC D-jetro RB26 on hot ambient days getting inlet manifold heat soak after shutoff (up to 80 deg after some time 10 or 15 mins) - and it makes it hard to start once it exceeds the 80 deg. I have to hold a bit of throttle on to allow it to continue running until the temp drops below 80 and it returns to running fine . I realise there are compensations built into the engine management to pull timing etc once the intake temps exceed 80, but it is obviously heat soak NOT actual inlet temps of 80+ deg. To combat this problem I have ordered a Gizzmo Phenolic inlet manifold gasket to try to prevent the heat transfer to the manifold / temp sensor, and I will be fitting it in Jan when I get back from overseas to see if it makes a difference - I'll post the results. If this doesn't work adequately, I will be moving the sensor into the intercooler output pipe as previously posted. Anyone else had experience with these gizzmo gaskets? Real time results? I will datalog the results I see and post for all to see in January!

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PM + voice mail left - very keen

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Double post - damn you slow assed internet!

Should be able to make it - put me down for a feed and a run :-)

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For mine I went to the local hardware and bought a suitable size bolt (like 16mm or so as mentioned before), CUT the thread of the end with a hacksaw and cleaned up the edges with a file, then filled the back of the crank with grease and gave it the FBH (f@cken big hammer) approach and it popped out easy as. The bolt has to be a tight fit - ie you have to hit it in with the hammer, and after a short amount of time it came out easy as. Cost me a couple of dollars - tried heaps of other methods before I finally gave this a go - was completely suprised at how easy it was. You then can keep the long bolt 'genuine spiggot bush remover' in your box of tricks for next time. As they say - the right tool makes the job easy! Good luck :-)

Engine wise - R34 RB26 with steel wheelled low mounts, believed to be N1 or group A spec but haven't chased up the actual kind, just made sure they were the large cartridge/steel wheel variety for the boost I run (1.5 bar) The usual fuel system upgrades (pump, 700cc injectors, sard reg), ARC oil cooler and IC, blitz intake pods + hard IC piping kit, APEXI radiator (currently in the process of being replaced), PWR FC D jetro with last dyno at Willalls (340rwkws, 1.3 bar) although on the track I run a 20% toluene/boost 98 mix, 1.5bar and 3 to 4 degrees extra timing so whatever that gives me (seat of the pants dyno=quicker :-) ) Gearbox = stock, OS giken twin plate, ATS 1.5 LSD in the rear Chassis - all joints rose jointed, extra body bracing through the engine bay with tomei strut / body brace, chassis rails all expander foam filled, 4 point cage coil overs, track wheel alignment setup (although I haven't been to the Lala with the new setup) AP 330mm brakes up front, std rear albeit with braided lines + nismo pads in the back Tyres - at this stage still running the ADVAN street tyres (trust me - its a bloody handful on the track!) but I will be getting some semi's early next year. Managed a 36.66 up collingrove last Sunday on the first (and only) timed run before the event was rained out. Mallala is a braking track - so brute horsepower isn't a huge neccessity. Good cornering / brakes will help you along in leaps and bounds before you try taking more grunt to the track. Also tyre pressure / wheel alignment is a huge help, although it is obviously a little impractical to run 3 deg camber and 6-7 castor on an everyday streeter.

Very keen - I have currently ran a 1:20 at the Lala but this was on a single flying lap due to cooling system issues! Happy to take it to the Evos and STIs!!! I'm away with work till mid Jan so if it doesn't go ahead till after then - I'll be there!!

Sounds great - Definately in, although I am away with work alot I'll be there for everything I can be! We could also incorporate an SAUSA shirt/sticker into the membership price? I'd be willing to pay $50 - $60 bucks for the year if this was the case - any others keen?

Turning my GTR into more of a weekend / track car and hence I am selling my DVD player / Amp and Subs with box Items: Pioneer AVH-P7500 II In Dash DVD / CD player (RRP $2500+) - Until recently the Top of the Line in dash player - features 7 inch touch screen - 5 channel surround sound (50Wx5 channel inbuilt amp) Pioneer GEX-P5700TVP (RRP $999) - TV tuner box for above player - includes aerials Alpine MRV F505 4 x 120W Amp Output Power at 12V: 4 x 50W @ 4 ohms (0.04% THD) 4 x 65W @ 2 ohms (0.3% THD) 2 x 130W @ 4 ohms (0.3% THD) Output Power at 14.4V: 4 x 75W @ 4 ohms (0.04% THD) 4 x 100W @ 2 ohms (0.3% THD) 2 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.3% THD) Fuse: 2 x 25A 2 x Kicker Comp Series 12 inch subs in custom box for R32 specifically designed to fit rear facing in r32 with rear strut brace Item Condition: In dash screen and TV tuner as new - has been in car for just on 12 months. Amp and subs - a few years old but in great condition and well looked after Box has been custom built around 9 months ago, yet to be covered with carpet but can come covered for a little extra $$ :-) Extra Info: Items still in the car - can see operating if required. Installation is only 2 cartons of coopers pale ale away..... Contact Details: Currently am not on the site very often - please sms or call my mobile 0439 703 239 Price and price conditions: $2500 $2000 the lot, or In Dash DVD Player - $1800ono $1600ono including the TV tuner Amp and subs in box - $800ono $600ono Thanks guys, Andrew

Dennis, Mate, you know what I've got on the beast - but for the benefit of others reading this thread I'll whack in a pic. btw - these brakes are outstanding, they have a much better feel than the standard brakes when cold, and when they get some temp into them they'll stand you up out of your seat!!! nb - no fade or pedal feel change at Mallala even with 210+ terminal speeds across the back straight..............oh and with $8 brake fliud (don't ask..............)!!!!!! Challenge to all: Anyone recognise the brand of the coilovers in the beast?

Items: R32 radiator - GTR or I think GTST is the same Contact Details: PM me Price and price conditions: Reasonable working condition - no leaks or rust.