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Everything posted by DaveB
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This is what SydneyKid said about the fittment of the whiteline rear bar (and specifically how much thread to have exposed) in post 54 of the original group buy thread:
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Hey thanks Josh, looking to do this on my S2 soon and you just took all the hard work out!
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Sorry car is at the workshop without an engine atm so I don't have pic's... if I come across one I'll post... but yeah I think aftermarket headunits can be made to mount just as flush as the OEM unit (the single-DIN one at the bottom of the xanavi setup)... if that's what you mean. Mine did. I just left the outer plastic surround/frame thing that comes with the headunit off. I recommend getting one with at least a USB port, 'cause 16-32GB USB keys are pretty cheap these days and a (* load easier to manage (IMHO ) than cds/dvds etc. Also recommend bluetooth capability for your phone... I think nobody's mentioned yet that the xanavi screen folds down (has an "eject" button) and behind it there is a slot-load CD player. Plus when it's folded down it doubles as a drink shelf There are two 3.5mm phono sockets (the kind usually found on headphones etc) on the front of the xanavi unit; top is for video and bottom for audio (99% sure could be the other way round!) To use as an input you press the TV button (is marked in English) and select "VR2" input on the touch-screen. The climate control is also handled by the touchscreen; very cool. The two Jap "buttons" (on-screen) below the image of the air source are for manual selection of air source (left button) and outside temperature (right button). Temperature display etc are in English. If you install an aftermarket headunit, you can wire the output from the Xanavi unit into its auxilary input. This is how I have mine setup. That leaves me with the front panel audio/video inputs on the Xanavi still working, the NTSC sound output and the internal CD player output, all working through my aftermarket headunit. You'll need a 5-pin DIN plug to do this (easily available). If you need the pinouts just let me know but pretty easily found by testing.
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There are a few posts around now on the Nistune. Also see the ordering page on the Nistune site for prices here. You want the Type 4 board; cost on that page when I last checked was $260AU plus $50 fitting? Something like that don't quote me. You send them your ECU and they fit the daughterboard, load your existing tune onto it, and send it back. You plug it back in and there's no change until tuned at a workshop which can tune the Nistunes (quite a few now, also check their "Workshops" page).
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What Part Of My Loom Is This?
DaveB replied to beRwick_GTRage's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
First pic' looks like the gear selector from an auto... and the brown connector is the one on mine (auto) which gets pulled to keep the auto box in 3rd (limp mode) when it gets dyno'd. If it's an auto loom then there'll be a 'detent' (park/neutral) switch somewhere which needs to be shorted to get the car to start (safety feature on autos). Somewhere in that loom... Mine's a 4WD auto stagea and it has all 3 of those plugs, one above the other. -
Giving Away: S2 Standard Clarion Headunit & Cd Boot Stacker
DaveB replied to DaveB's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Sure; wiring first... the wiring colours for the headunit I found matched up with the text diagram at the top of this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...l=stereo+wiring I had a xanavi unit, and to adapt it to the standard stereo wiring harness there was a short adapter which went from the standard wiring scheme (as per the post above) to separate/different plugs for the xanavi unit. If you are after wiring diagrams for the xanavi you can try this pic'... mostly Japanese sorry (also I think it's series 1, but seems to be 99% the same...) When you remove the headunit you've pretty much got to remove everything as per the headunit install post above. ***ONE DIFFERENCE WITH XANAVI*** is that there are two screws which hold the stereo surround to the mounting bracket that the headunit/LCD etc. fits in. So, you can't just pry off the surround as suggested in pics 4 and 5 of post #2. Apart from that it is a really good guide. You'll know if you have a xanavi setup, because you've got 2-DIN-unit LCD touchscreen for your climate control, with a (albeit NTSC) TV tuner -
Giving Away: S2 Standard Clarion Headunit & Cd Boot Stacker
DaveB replied to DaveB's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Which one Alex - mine's gone at this stage, you mean Stooge's? -
Giving Away: S2 Standard Clarion Headunit & Cd Boot Stacker
DaveB replied to DaveB's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Here's a pic' of it anyway Chris, just curious what it is/what you were looking for... Just to let people know again... at this stage it's gone (sold?) given away, thanks. -
Giving Away: S2 Standard Clarion Headunit & Cd Boot Stacker
DaveB replied to DaveB's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Thanks Chris. Sorry stacker given away about a minute before your post... whew quick work thanks guys. I hate throwing stag' stuff in the bin! -
Hmm not good about attesa... maybe they pulled a fuse instead? They should drop the shaft...
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Yeah no way a RS-Four stag should do that with less than 300awkw (and then, would be at all four). Sounds like somebody forgot to re-fit the front driveshaft. It could be dangling () so get it checked out ASAP!
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Yes FAST will tell you... buggered if i know how... there's a guy on this thread who could tell you though...
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Hi Gary, I was one of the people who went down the path of getting a set of R33GTsT-spec front rotors and getting them machined down the 6mm (3mm metal removed), to be 290mm (same diameter as my original S2 fronts). S2 RS-FourV (auto), 2000 model year. Unfortunately, after getting all of that sorted, I found that the offset was different. Out by at least a few mm?. I don't have the exact measurements, only a couple of pic's which gives an idea. But I still have the rotors (paperweights now) so I can measure the stock rotors and the new ones. Here are a couple of pics; note the nasty gouges out of the new (slotted) rotor where I fitted it to the car, and then rolled the car a few feet by hand wondering what that grinding sound was. That's all it took to destroy a nice new rotor Ah well, I was only going on advice off the forums, I knew there was a fair chance it wouldn't all be peachy. Just lazy sometimes I guess lol. DaveB
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Whoa that SUCKS... of all the cars on the street... it had to pick the bayside blue stag!!! Sorry to see that Dave, hope it doesn't turn into too much of a trial getting it fixed. Hope you'll be seeing your stag in A+++ condition with new panels and a full respray v. soon!
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Rear Bilstein Shocks Suit Auto Stagea
DaveB replied to darrinspencer's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Thanks Gary, I might take you up on that I didn't know they were still available; but please do let me know details. PM if you like -
Crap, it's still November 14th isn't it? I think I'm going to have to pull out too My stag's booked in for an engine teardown & rebuild on the 4th so I don't think it will be ready in time unfortunately. Sorry I didn't let you know sooner, forgot about this. Looking forward to hearing how it all goes though... and if I can I'll come along for a look-see.
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Great stuff guys... awesome info as always Timmeh you are _the_ authority on stagea spec's lol. RB_Ryan yes I was getting viscous confused with mechanical. Been reading the group buy threads for kaaz centres too much lol. Anybody have an idea how much it would cost in labour for a shop to open the diff' to change centres (Simon)? Might as well replace rear subframe bushes while there? Replacement mounting bushes for the diff itself available? (mine look a bit worse-for-wear). Simon interesting to read that you went for an LSD upgrade - and what kind of a difference did it make? Do you feel like you've got more traction, or less? Just wonder what attesa would make of an LSD... would it start to oversteer 'cause it can, or would it start to understeer because it's not got more traction at the rear...
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Been serviced 2 or 3 times in 45,000K's so far. But I don't want to drift or anything... just getting used to the 4wd. Probably even a 1.5 is a bit over-the-top for my uses. A 1-way viscous would be nice; yes I read a how-to on here about how to shim your diff'.
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Thanks Darrin. Never knew there was a 6 x 1. Never been close enough to a GTR But I'm pretty sure this diff' is a 3 x 2... thought I'm not sure if $800 is a good price for it, although it is brand new. Here's a pic':
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Optionals were viscous? ...hmm... not good. PM sent
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Thanks that's interesting... I wondered about the whole diff' off an S15. I know the centres are exchangeable, so just to find the right ratio. Diff I found is actually complete in housing with the S2 6-bolt axle flanges.
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Whenever there's a considerable lack of traction and over-application of power... lol but not trying to drift or anything... happens at very low speed (say 20km/h or less). Doesn't happen as often with the wider rims as it did with the standard rims/tyres. For example, going around a corner near my street, it's steeply uphill and off-camber. Turn in really slow and give it plenty of power and it sort-of "shuffles" sideways first at the rear, then the front, then the inside rear spins, then the outside, and it kinda crabs up the hill for a couple of secs then pulls straight. Kinda cool, and also kinda unpredictable. I think an lsd would make it more predictable, and feel safer around round-abouts lol. Still cool, just not LSD-style fun. But then with an AWD system like this it is probably safer to shuffle some of the excess torque to the front or the back and let it just spin away the rest.
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hmm interesting... viscous lsd... was that a series 1? I heard they wear out after 50,000K's or something, is that true?
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Hi all, When I first started researching stageas a few years ago I was surprised to read that they apparently didn't have an LSD. I came to this conclusion when I read that RS-Four S has "mechanical" LSD. As does 260RS. But what is the standard LSD in say a 33gtst or 34gtt - viscous or mechanical? Is it possible that the standard S2 auto diff' is a viscous limited-slip unit? Just about every S1 stagea diff' I have seen for sale said it was an LSD... that's something else that made me wonder about viscous LSD. I am interested to know because somebody is selling a new viscous LSD R200 in the correct ratio for S2 auto and I would like to know if it would be an upgrade or not. I don't like the uncomfortable "sideways shuffle" of my stag atm (I'm sure if it *was* a viscous LSD it's worn and now running open).