DaveB

Cheers!!! I only heard this last night, when I went to pick up a split pipe... the guy told me it would bolt to the standard cat-back for now... that explains it. I held off doing anything about exhaust for so long thinking that I couldn't do anything unless I changed the whole system :S This is very useful info - exhausts are always being modified. Now to find a 105mm PCD gasket with 3"/275mm ID... probably exhaust shop.

lol oops sorry meant 75mm not to worry, went to local motormate/sprint type shops and they "don't have anything that big". So will have to go to an exhaust place anyway... thanks

Hi all, Hoping to get out to pick up some exhaust gaskets on my lunch break today and I know that the ID is 275mm but I don't know the ED/bolt spacing... can anybody help out at short notice? thanks! DaveB

Yep, on series 2 auto at least, bottom-right "electronic parts" fuse runs the central locking & I think the key remote receiver. It blew when I shorted one of the central locking power connections when I was installing my alarm/immobiliser. Twice.

glad to hear you're now one of the lucky ones who's factory ceramic turbo is _not_ whining its head off! Did you replace the corrugated part of your inlet pipe with a metal tube (as mentioned somewhere here in a '5 minute DIY' or something similar)? Also helps stop 'sucky closed under boost' though you probably won't have that problem with the factory turbo I guess.

An update pleeease, Messanic???

Thanks a heap for the replies guys, that puts my mind at ease a bit more... for the record the GCG hi-flow of the stock turbos is a complete new Garett core, and is ball bearing. I was told I needed between 1.5L and 2L per minute, I got ~400mL in 15 seconds. Glad to see yours was similar crayman; I'm sure this info must be known for the stock RB25DET engines - I mean it's only been done about a million times before. Still, I guess I know that my setup specifically is safe. For the record I have found, that the stock line is fine for flow if you just drill out the banjo *bolts*; they have about a 1mm restriction in *both* of them. If you drill them out on an RB25 (NEO in my case) you should get around 400mL/15sec at idle. PS Thanks URAS, that number may yet come in handy

My thoughts exactly That is true; however there is an investment to be made in hardware & software by the tuner to be able to work with the Nistune... they have to buy a board, software license, couple of EPROM emulators etc. So perhaps not all of them will have this hardware? JIPPA: At least one tuner in Perth is capable of tuning with the Nistune (Perth Z Performance)... click on the "Workshops" link at the top of the Nistune website (a suggestion made to me by someone else earlier in this thread ) and you will see: I simply e-mailed Matt at Nistune, his address is [email protected] All you have to do is mail him your ECU; it can be removed easily using only your fingers, a 10mm socket and perhaps a phillips-head screwdriver as tools. It is located behind the front-passenger "kick panel" (l/h side, in front of the door). Then you mail it to him and he installs the board and mails it back to you using express post (so generally 2-3 days turn around ). All that was included in the price of $305. Then you plug your ECU straight back in, and it will run exactly as factory. You see Matt downloads your stock firmware (the factory "tune" information) onto the board he installs, so it will use that as a starting tune, and it will be *exactly* the same as the stock tune. Then you can just start the car (if you haven't made any other crazy mod's) and drive it straight to your tuner to have a tune done. I don't see any reason why piggy-backs won't work with this as well, a bit pointless BUT if you have piggy-backs now you could use them with the Nistune board until you can get a full tune done and remove them at the same time. HTH Just to make sure, you have a series 2 stagea right? Series 1 won't take the Nistune board; Tangles' stag is the only series 1 I have heard of with a successfully modded factory ECU, and that was done by a forum member called Toshi.

I read that you have your turbo back on... how'd you go with it, are you driving the car again? Was it a GCG hi-flow you put on?

Pretty sure I know the one you mean; when I took my turbo off mine was loose and no sign of oil/water leaks... you might be alright. Should be reasonably easy to access by feel though...

Well this certainly sounds cheaper... and since you essentially get to keep the factory ECU, it should run as close as possible to factory, keeping all factory features... those you don't want, you might be able to ask your tuner to 'delete' (>180km/h... guess that's why I haven't noticed my speed limiter... I don't go on track days ) Could you explain a little more about the boost cut? I thought you meant the factory boost cut that you get in 1st and snow mode? I think that's only a function of the factory ECU-wired dual stage boost solenoid? If so then running a boost controller (which I think I will still have to do?) would bypass this... can somebody with more knowledge on boost control comment on this?

Good price.... pity only < 1 degree, I'm at -1.6 degrees _already_ at ~395mm!!

Having this same problem, driver's side front on S2... power controls plug (the big one) doesn't matter how far the locking tab is depressed, it's stuck like glue. Yet I know it's not glued 'cause I plugged it in myself not 4 months ago.

See post above - have now done this and yes, it was standard price of $305. I don't have a speed cut (?), and with external boost control you don't need to worry about boost cut in 1st/2nd (or reverse :S). Not sure what features are available but from a look at this screenshot on Nistune's website it looks pretty damn comprehensive: and these appear to be just the options available to the older RB30ET board.... There are lots more just see www.nistune.com You do have a series 2 stag then? Just that this won't work with series 1's. I am going the same way with the split pipe & hi-flow cat' and GCG hi-flowed turbo first, probably standard cat-back exhaust for first tune (!!! I know I know), fuel pump & fpr but hope to get away with the standard coilpacks, which have been 'siliconed'.

Lol that's right I remember that episode Hillarious stuff. Yeah hoping it's all going to be smooth tuning it; I figure that if it runs on this board though then it should be; it's doing everything already. I think I'll book the tune in for a few weeks away; I am getting a split pipe on Tuesday if all goes to plan, and a walbro wss-342 and nismo fpr sometime this week, which I plan to install myself and set to stock fuel pressure just to save labour costs (that's about $100-150 saving just there!). Then I need to find a hi-flow cat and I might yet need a cat-back exhaust... so yeah, that and the two week wait time at my garage, it's a bummer. All the usual stuff underway though, with the main short-term goal being just to get the damn car back on the road!! Yeah a consult cable (one of the Nistune high-speed jobbies) and a car PC hooked up to an in-dash display would be a pretty nice solution

Oh yeah !!!! That's the hardest part

Hi there, After getting my NEO turbo hi-flowed (GCG), the turbo specialist at the shop I went to told me I needed to do an oil flow test, with the oil feed line to the turbo, with the turbo off. Has anyone done one of these before? Surely the flow of a standard RB25 oil feed must be known? Only been done about a million times before... Still I thought it best to test my specific situation... Only problem is, I can't get higher than 250mL in 15 seconds, which works out to ~1 litre per minute. I was advised I needed minimum 1.5Lt/min (so 375mL in 15 sec) and no more than 2Lt/min. This is with an unrestricted banjo bolt in the engine end of the feed tube, no banjo bolt in the "catch end" (in the bottle which represents the turbo), and one of the banjo's has a restriction. The line is new by the way; I had Pirtek make up a stainless one using the original banjos from the original oil feed line. Does anybody know if 250mL is right, and what sort of flow I need? What can I do - spend another $100 to get another line made up, and then try that in the hope that I've gotten the restriction right? thanks DaveB

Update: It lives! I now have a Nistune type 4 board running my series 2 stagea

Are they bushed ones? Or pillow-ball?

I don't think posts can be edited anymore? I know I can't edit mine...

Niiice... do you know where you can get a Legalis R cat-back system? They're 3 inch and fully stainless aren't they? The best I've been able to find is an exhaust shop that has done several stageas apparently, who said a stainless custom system would be around $850 + cost of exhaust tip(s) ($80 +). That in 3" stainless. Edit: OOPS mis-read - you can only get that system for M35

That sounds awesome... thanks for that. Can't really tell very accurately because of the auto-volume thing on video cameras, but it sounds pretty quiet when you compare to the voices which seem to drown out the exhaust? Do you know the part number of your centre muffler?

That's not good news... Thanks Richard, please let us know how the bushes go; was that $125 for both sides of the car or just one side? Interested to know how much camber they will remove...

That's it, that's what I'm after for my S2! I'm in same boat - want to buy a jap system but they're all cannons. Do you have the part number of the rear x-force muffler? Stuff with twin tips like that seems pretty rare...

Hi guys, all I ever do is: - fill cooling system via radiator (make sure cap is off) - remove bottom bleeder bolt (at front of plenum) - 'pump' top/bottom hoses a few times by hand - fill some more - squeeze top hose until coolant runs out the bolt hole - hold pressure in pipe by hand at this point, and replace bleeder bolt before releasing - remove top bleeder bolt (at rear of plenum) - squeeze hose until coolant comes out - hold hose while replace top bolt ...done it does make sense to me though that the engine should be run with these bolts partially undone, to make sure coolant starts to run out with no bubbles... that would "boil the air out" (ie. engine must be idled for at least 5 mins or so until thermostat opens).