rs73

go weep then haha

I'm interested too Kristian, do you think you can get another set next month? Right now I gotta "lay low" a bit...

somebody "bump" my post count up, pls hehehe

it would be... but I think the cops who handle stolen cases are not TMU, so they won't be carrying cannary tickets around.

Did they try to offload it on ebay too? their accounts should be banned by now considering now that they're arrested, you may want to notify ebay if you haven't... Glad to hear you recovered the bits and arrested the scums... can you put everything back into the car to make it all sweet again?

Happy birthday Kev....

- What i was told before by other members is cutting wire #53 over extended period is not very good for the HICAS system, also may cause some aftermarket products like AVC-R not functioning properly, also some turbo timers which uses speed sensors to determine countdown timer. This is why the Japanese manufacturers made Trust / HKS speed cut thing, otherwise why bother?. - Don't think you need fuel cut defender, fuel cut is usually related to overboosting, don't think it related to over 180kph, so speed cut defender alone should be fine. whether the full blown RSM GP or a simple trust/hks unit should do.

boj01? why would putting a 3" dump & front pipe reducing the noise? I thought it would increase the noise?

Tailshaft is different length I think... You can get away with Auto ECU but it won't be optimum as it would be cutting power at shift points at certain rpm (still thinking it's auto). May be running a leaner fuel map than manual ECU, SAFC is recommended to fix this. If it's not included in the conversion package, try to get the Auto ECU replaced with manual one at a later stage. Speed sensor shouldn't be a drama. The worst you get is due to auto/manual diff ratio differences (4.3 & 4.1) , you'd be off merely 4% in speed.

Or instead of getting RSM for about $300, you can have my brand new Trust speed de-limiter for $85 (firm)

Is it also true that running boost above 1 or 1.2 bar using 3rd party boost controller and PowerFC will cause your engine check light on the dash to light on, because PowerFC could not monitor the boost anymore? The only remedy is using the dedicated Apexi boost control option that connects straight to the PowerFC, is this true or not?

Back in 1988, 140kw is plenty and in an older, lighter chassis it will deliver a decent performance. 160ps (115-120kw) at the time of KPGC10 in 1970s is considered above most competitions already, although it is hard for those figures to impress when presented in the modern world today, as public are 300kw minded these days.

Especially with twin or triple plate clutch, it'll be a bitch to drive in traffic jam! Had a R32 GTR owner told me he had to wait till the car in front of him moves for about 1 or 2 car length before unleashing his triple plated GTR to "jump" forward just in time to stop quickly waiting for the traffic to crawl again. Gets nasty when the car on the next lane decided to change lane in front of you thinking you're giving him the way. Not a very good "daily ritual".

I think the ones used for taxi are the 4 door GTS with N/A RB25DE, not the RB25DET. Would be uneconomical to use a turbo car as taxi because the higher running cost of petrol. (that's why the V6 Falcon/Commodores are also popular here as taxi, not the V8s.) Saying that they're taxi in jpn to prove skyline is an everyday car is like comparing apples and oranges for the majority of turbocharged skylines that we get here in Australia. Plus taxi run high kms in a day and engine always running most of the time. Not just 5 min or 5km trips here and there like we they way some of us use our car to go to the mall.

pm sent

Those digital ones are generally more accurate since the pressure sensor is not being thrown around to the ground like some older conventional ones. However they are not perfect as I found: - They cannot be used to inflate a totally flat tyre as it needs some pressure feedback from the tyre to sense how much air it needs to pump into the tyres to reach the target pressure. - If the target pressure is too far from your current pressure (e.g. from 24psi to 36psi) they often overshoot and had to deflate, overshoot the deflation and has to inflate again.

42 is not too high, in fact 40 is the minimum you need if you hit the track regularly. In fact 36-40psi is the majority of operating pressure of most tyres. Tyre placards are a conspiracy used by car manufacturers so they can sell cars, since customer will feel comfortable bounce on their bums when test driving a car from the showroom. For the street it all depends on rims and tyre combination. if you fit a wider tyre 225 onto a narrow rim like 7", then you need to pump it up to prevent too much sidewall flex, e.g. I find 36psi on my 225/50/R16 on stock R33 16" rims gives the best turn in response. If you put 225 tyres on 7.5" or 8" wide you may be able to run less pressure, maybe 32-34. you'll need to experiment to find the best. I always find running at least 2-4psi above recommended pressure on the tyre placard works best.

cool project! keep us posted.... I personally prefer the KPGC10 shape (a few years earlier). However just wondering if there is a particular reason for choosing this chassis as the base for the project?

I know what u mean predator.... funny thing I'm more stressed of what you mentioned above in the first 3-6 months of acquiring my Skyline.... My Skyline has been quite faithful to me on daily basis for the past 2 years and 2 months.

It should be fine for short 15 min trips... Just make sure the first few mins treat the engine & turbo nicely as they warms up. Afterwards you can have about 8-10 mins of "fun". Then the last 5 mins of the trip try to leave your ego in the boot (even if this means a Hyundai Excel beats you at the light). This way your engine & turbo will not be boiling hot when you reached your destination. Otherwise get a turbo timer if you must show your ego anyway, but I myself is security conscious so I won't leave my car running on timer parked anywhere these days. It might tempt the unexpected....

How much for dyno runs? and is it runs only?

I think the stupid driver been handbraking every corner, locking up rear tyres... creating a dellusional state in his mind that his magna is a hi-po rwd sports car....... Hey Matty, D1 competition is only in Japan, so better save lots of money for your airline ticket and shipping your car back to japan to join one. Full Lock www.fulllock.com organise a couple of local drift competition, and HPI/JMS in Adelaide been organising some as well. They call it "Drift Nats" here....

Looks nice, bar and plate... what is the part no on that? Is it Apexi GT series intercoolers?

i have never yet seen one imported to australia..... are you sure it's not a conversion?

R32 doesn't come in RB25DE.... so definitely no cos it never exist