Factory 5

Good daily, I had one a few years back. (also had the U12 single cam version- which i liked better!) Sold for $2000 and had 160,000km, and was on the market for at least 4 months.... (fyi)

Quick update, My brother is a detailer for BMW in Brisbane, and suggested for a daily that isnt a show-car and has old paint with no clear coat, is to use: 'Clay Bar' to remove grime and scum out of the paint, and also a 5 lt bucket of hot water, and 5ml of Kerosene to strip of any waxes/polishes/compounds etc that may of been applied over the years. then Nu-Finish (that stuff in the orange container) with a damp microfiber cloth, let dry, then buff off with clean microfiber cloth. (works on water stained glass, and also chrome or polished metal trims) Wait a week and re-use nu-finish a 2nd time. The wax it (turtle or mequiars) to seal it So I goes to Autobarns, and Nu-Finish is on special with a matching car wash (has orange oil in it or something) Did a testing session with nu-finish on the Bonnet (as its going to be thrown out its beyond repair... seriously it has paddle pop sticks epoxied into the front lip and bogged over.... lol) Came out pretty well, I was impressed! (chrome trims came out immaculate, as did the window) When I ever find my photobucket account again I'll add some pics. I might look into a wax application later to seal it from road grime/water stains etc.

I found out that Kerosene is the main active ingredient in bug & tar remover... ouch

Hey all, Thought to get some insight on how you get yor car shiny and bright. Most topics in relation to this are applicable to 'newer' models Currently I have some white panelwork needing attention (seems there isn't clear coat?) Oxidization and exhaust/carbon stains everywhere, even greasy hand prints. I used stainless polish on a test patch, did an excellent job but prob not best product? Also used 'orange power' house cleaner stuff, really gets rid of grease but makes paint go soft and calky (fail) Also the underbody needs alot of degreasing and painting, was thinking BBQ paint like'pot belly black' brushed on would be indestructible? So if you have a product or process in shining up our old birds do post it up!

Im a CAD expert so I can do a drawing for you, just need to verify dimensions from your end.

Man if u got access to cleaner then go for it, see if he will do a group discount! I have 20 or more that need cleaning! Some are jammed some leak, bet a set could be made from them eventually

I have a 1uz and it's a very smoothe engine, but aftermarket support is pretty low. ITs a very popular conversion though, hilux an hiace in nz! Bullet Supercars make a supercharger kit, bloody expensive. I'd look at vq30det, garage in Adelaide has done it just can't remember the name

Im pretty sure the stock L24e injectors are around 188cc, same as teh 280zx, 300zx (non-turbo) and VL/R31 non-turbo. I cant remember but there is some 4cyl thing that can be used, like the CA20e pintara or something... Ive replaced so many injectors im sick of it, I dont even bother with second hand ones anymore. USA Ebay have new ones, and so does aus ebay occasionally. Im pretty sure there was a fella selling reco'ed R31 units for a good price. If you want to get rid of teh standard fuel rail, look for PALLNET on the web

Is it the blue scree version or teh newer coloured screen one?

The R31 have the same problem, its in the seal of the moulding, 30 years of bumps and shunts and rubbing starts to affect it. I reckon take it out and give it a ripper clean, like put morning fresh and hot water and scrub the guts out with a bottle brush, Then fill it with cordial or something that you can see the leak? I would think a hot knife/soldering iron could melt the plastic a bit to stop the hole up once youve found it (could be more than one) I do have a spare up in a box somewheres, might dig it out for you if you cant fix existing one! Another option is go to an 'aftermarket' unit, like from a commodore or some other thing easily replaceable. Wreckers! (could get a washer bottlle when you get your sway bar!) I had a smaller secondary washer bottle and pump setup on my other R30 Hatch, second switch too. In the 2nd bottle I had Barclays Window Washer fluid. So if the windows was really dirty I could give that one a few bursts and let it soak the bug guts and dust a bit, then blast it with the water one. (i used to keep having to re-top up the main water reservoir with fluid, either kept fogetting or couldnt be bothered eventually) Kinda over the top, but thats just me...

Wheel weight is also worth looking into... I had some big 16s and when I changed back to factory Ti 15 inch, handling improved so much. Had slightly less grip on power out, but that was the only negative. There are a few brake options. I'd look at the one that requires little or NO custom modifications. So bolt in coversion. DR30 turbo has 100mm caliper bolt spacing that is good for the R32 calipers etc. Aother thing to think of is disks, when they wear out can they be replaced with an off the shelf item (repco etc) and also brake pads, get someting you can source in a day (no point waiting for someting to ship from overseas over 4 weeks etc) With these things in mind I'd look into an uprated Commodore setup (2 piston) as the pads and disks can come off the shelf in 30 min etc.... Although for that to work, you need custom mounting spacers 'dog bones' I put R31 Skyline front swaybar in my Hatch, and it made an epic difference., I used the R31 bushes carved a bit to fit in the R30 brakets

Benny are you posting about the Purple JDM DR30 or the PJR Race DR30? I know the purple DR30 can be traced back to the old FJ20 forum - Glynn or something???

Its also known as Canberra's Fastest Ash Tray lol. Very clean car, intercooler setup is pretty ingenious with the XR6t unit Would be nice IF someone wanted an Aussie R30 with a 5K engine.

Good work! I'll have to come to Syd to check it out...

I hear ya hugh.... I always felt after 160km my old hatch would just nearly roll to 200... (off the dial and then some...) shit i miss that car...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371112-rb25det-mr30-skyline/page__p__5916429__fromsearch__1#entry5916429 Link aove for forsale thread. I have seen (and heard!) this car and its built really well. no nonsense bling etc. A true sleeper. IF I had a secure income and spare cash I would of bought it yesterday. You could nut build it for even double the asking price... (especially engineered too) Mate I hope you get a quick and easy sale. Cheers, AP

Hey Michael are u still going to disk rear end from the 280zx??

Was nearly year ago the event was on!

Which issue? I want it for my memorabilia collection!

Was also on the Californian 280zx. It's just a system of fuel injection and exhaust recirculation to lower gas emissions. Not many around, as the Bosch L-jetronic got upgraded and passed the emissions testing. I've seen it on a L20A in a C210, pretty interesting, no power upgrade though

Having witnessed Kittos driving last year, you have a pretty good challenge in front of you! Also the best thing about your toyota, its reliable.... much dollars to be saved....

Just to add: The doors & windows are for a 4 door sedan. Steves number is 0409 888 644

Can you pm me your phone number. Pleash!!!!!!!

http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=109852.0 I had a crack at putting some Z31 50th anniversary seats in mine, pretty much similar to the link above. Flat bar, about 50x5 across the original mounts and then see where the R32 seats line up on those. Might need a spacer like steel square section/ or even rectangle

I had one rebuilt for $80 a few years back.... its only an hour (max) of their time plus a few $3 washers and seals etc that they buy in bulk and have 11 billion of them anyway!