Factory 5

FOR SALE: 1x Turbo exhaust manifold from L20et, very clean, face machined, coated in VHT exhaust Grey ($200) 1x turbo sump from L20et (has turbo oil drain fitting) to suit R30 Skyline with L6 engine, sand blasted and coated in VHT engine enamle, gloss black.($50) 1x XR6 turbo intercooler (2.25" inlet/outlet) near new, immac condition. Includes 2x 2.25" to 2.5" silicone couplings ($50) 1x 3 inch stainless exhaust and cannon muffler, one 3" flanged end - from diff only (to suit most Nissan RWD with minor mods) Orig from S13. ($50) All items located in Brisbane. Can courier at cost. Prices are negotiable, make an offer if youre keen. Take the lot for $300 Contacts: [email protected] or private message me

Yes, indicators are only supposed to be used when cops are around... VERY annoying.

Inbox was full, sorry (have had quite a few messages!) Should be ok now.

I know of a good HR30 Coupe and spares/upgrades for sale. Looking for around $2500 Not registered, but wouldnt take much to do so. PM me for details.

What ever happened to Harvo's green C210 with the new paint job and the webber carby?? (from Lithgow NSW?)

My mate had the exact same wheels on his R31, needed 10mm spacers on rear, and 5mm on the front to clear the spring seat.... But coilovers are a good solution for that! I'll take the Nismo wheel, might suit my HR30 Coupe nicely... PM me you contact details (I'll be back from training on Sunday next week...)

If you have had a turbo timer installed AFTER youtr Brant alarm it can make things a bit screwey... Make sure you specify to the installer if a timer is installed, and what features etc you want straight from the start... altering parameters later on has potential to leave you stranded...

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Sorry if this seems out of place... just testing some image linking etc

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/9910/p1030299j.jpg

This looks like a great buy... I wish i wish i wish..... Maybe edit your original advert stating that its all fixed, as i nearly stopped reading when I saw the atmo BOV...

http://www.otomoto.com.au/c/4073478/1/used-wheels.html Ben also brings in used JDM wheels, the warehouse has some amazing goodies... I have bought old rims, then got them sand blasted, then powdercoated, all up its about $60 per rim. Looks great too.

It was a HPI cover car ages and ages ago... had a very nice FJ setup then (Priseman sold it for $1500 from memory)

I reckon change the fuel still.... AND the filter!!

Congrats on the start of a great looking project! in regards to the 'oh crap' rust pic... Can you make sure you document what you end up doing as Im looking at e few similar repairs in the future, so many ways to tackle it but no idea what works best!

Firstly, standard L24e doesnt have o-ring injectors, they have hose tails. If you replaced the rubber ring that seats the injector into the manifold then that wont solve anything except a minor air leak. If the car is smelling of fuel, It could be the injector bodys are prone to leaking (very common) and is due to heat stress, and 30 years of motoring. Replacement of the actual injector is the best solution. Dont even worry about 2nd hand ones (unles they are professionally reconditioned and tested, and have a warranty) Injectors can also have a full blockage, or partial blockage (not opening all the way, or not shutting all the way) this can lead to constant stream of fuel misting in, making it rich. Its also not the best for the engine as it will wash the bores and seep fuel into the sump, thinning out oil and other vapour problems.... Another thing for running rich (fuel smell) is the AFM (Air Flow Meter) may need some fine tuning, over the years the spring tension on the flap has relaxed a bit. You can tighten up the cog but must be careful not to let it go and unwind, also mark the existing cog location so you have reference. Normally (on the 6 cars Ive tuned) tightening it by about 4 to 5 teeth is enough on most cars (varying from 160,000km to 480,000km) There are a vew detailed tutorials on the webz, I may be able to dig one up when Im not at work... NEXT Running for 5 min then cutting out. This could have something to do with bad fuel, if you have got fuel from a location that may have water damage (like QLD) or where slack dodgey service stations wash out storage tanks with solvents and not removing it all before refilling, or dislodging sedimentation and it ends up in your tank. The solvents can strip gunk from your tank/fuel lines/filters etc. too, and then block the injectors. Injectors have a tiny little filter, and are blocked easily with shite fuel and silt etc. Ive had the problem in the past of 5 min running then dead, no start from a batch of QLD fuel, took about 3 weeks to get it sorted, changed the fuel filter a few times and got the injectors cleaned (they were 12 months old new ones) Sensor on Thermostat. This can be either the water temp sender to your dash (1 wire from memory) or the water temp sensor to the ECU or the 'thermotime sensor' which has something to do with idle and warm up. Both these sensors have the same or similar plugs, its really easy to get them back to front. Try swapping it a few times to see any difference. ".... ive checked for spark and there is none coming from the ignition module (coil) but there is power to the module itself..." There is a condenser/resistor that may be a problem, it can be damaged by power spikes or reverse current (accidently wiring stuff backwards) There wont be power at the Throttle sensor as its just a 3 way switch, when throttle is shut, it reads 0v. When open it does close a circuit, then when your pedal is right to the floor another circuit kicks in. %0 open = circuit is open, no voltage signal %1 to %99 open = circuit is closed, steady voltage signal %100 = secondary circuit closed (wide open throttle) additional voltage signal (this can be triggered by a switch behind the accelerator pedal too) "crank angle sensors"? No CAS on these old cars mate... its an entirely different era of technology (although the Turbo ones DO have a CAS built into the distributor) Id do the following if I was you: Check for leaking injector bodys. (check for wet spots around the injectors) swap out current load of fuel with new stuff from a good servo that sees a fair bit of traffic (put the old stuff in ya lown mower cans or similar) Get new fuel filter (they have to be high pressure rated, and cost about $30, same part as the R31 skyline, 300zx etc) dont use the clear plastic ryco filers they will rupture Maybe post up a pic of youre engine bay, we might be able to spot something that doesnt look right...

Im pretty certain the N47 will flow better than the E30 One interesting thing too is the N47 has a small section of steel 'pipe' on each exhaust port, with a gap around it, as it heats up red hot from the exh gas, it glows red. This burns off unused fuel in the exhaust. It also creates a little more heat for a turbo if thats your thing too (most of this info is from hybridz forum in teh USA) Another factor to take into is what block and capacity are you going to use?? It may need notching for the valves to cleat the top of the bores...

Now THIS looks like something I can go to, just over the hill!!

Make sure you bring a good camera, some nice pics of our classics would be great!

Moderators, couple we eventually have this made into a 'sticky' as it seems to be a fairly commonly asked topic, but here is an excellent response! Using the R31 engine mounts (mounts had to be slotted where the locator pin sits) original R30 gearbox mount (auto) matched the R30 tailshaft spot on. whole loom from dash to headlights was removed and replaced with the R31 loom ECU, Tranny computer and time control unit. and six cluster dash. A few plugs had to be changed and extended Retaining the original radiator using a range rover top hose. ( hose is on the other end compared to the R31 item and this one seems to fit perfectly) tranny lever adjusted new exhaust fitted and it starts first turn of the key. Fuel pump wont stop and keeps pumping fuel while the ignition is on. upgrade the R30 pump with either an aftermarket jobbie or work out how to instal the R31 intank item. used the R31 power steering pump and the nice guys at enzed made some new hoses and fittings to mate to the original power steering box, $160

I went on some massive sled thing out in the bush somewhere, It was post surgery so I cant really remember, but it snows in winter and stuff... Yeah!

Hey Mick, Theres no doubt that its a great car. Its just that they arent worth the current (or previous 2 or 3) asking price. So what if a GTR replica sold to kuwait over 4 years ago for $15k... Its only mad businessmen with wads of cash that buy them for that price. There is no way that it will ever sell for such prices previsouly indicated. Especially since its now not an original. (even if it was Orig, it would still take a long time to sell) Id bet that $8k would be the MAX it would get plenty of interest then....