Gazee

I have a standard r33 s2 turbo if you want to borrow it... only problem is its missing the exhaust wheel and the compressor wheel... car still drives but dusn't come on boost

Yea that wouldhave sucked balls

Yea the cops tend to pick on P-Platers with "hotted up" cars so to speak... yesterday i got stared down by a cop when i was driving, he pulled over and did a U-Turn so i went into the nearest car park and just jumped out my car and went for a walk lol Can they do anything if your not in your car??

Yea thats really interesting, i have one friend with a aus spec r s15 and his are the purple colour ones, another friend that has a s15 aus spec r 99 model, it has maroon ones... confuses the shit outa me but yes all jdm appart from auto came out with maroon (so i've seen so far)

Yea umm.... i'm sure you've given somone a run on the streets wether it was safe or not... and if you havn't your lieing i can see through your monitor that you are But yea safety first... dun worrie i wear a rubber Edit: all seriousness everyone keep racing off the streets

Thats pretty true... 0-100 is what mainly counts on the street i think anyways...

Yea you could say its heavier and slower... my mate had a 180sx with just the simple mods.. boost fmic and that but he was beaten by an integra type R... my suggestion to my friend being beaten is that he's a shit driver cos the 180 is just as light as the type R and he's got turbo... Maybe STLKHR's R34 is auto and bone stock???

I agree with Taso84, if you have a heavy foot and always coming on boost etc you'll get shit fuel economy.. i had 300km per full tank when my car was tuned with my safc... but that was cos i was always trying to come on full boost every gear lol when i cruise and change at around 3-4k i get 400km a full tank and my car is running so rich at the moment and i'm really suprised i get 400k's.. Just depends on setup, ecu tune and the way you drive is most important.. besides rb25's are known to drink a bit of fuel aswell... its a 6 cyl turbo after all..

Leave the external wastegate and just change the spring if its at 2 much boost and then weld up the internal flapper like pavel said.. you can get 10psi ext wastegate's aswell and apparently they control boost much better so i've been told... depends if you have a little turbo it'll look weird high mount.. isn't high mount for the turbos that don't fit low mount anyways?

As above... your right it wont affect map sensored cars but will affect afm 9 times out of 10... but i have seen some afm cars with bov's that done get effected which i find weird, plus no form of engine management either... but best fix is engine management... If you want the car for noise i.e. flutter/atmo bov, just buy a safc2 and get it tuned, they're designed to help with this exact issue.

Dude the amount of fuel it throws in to make it stall aint going to be fixed with new plugs, well not properly anyway... besides how long will it last before it does it again?? i'm presuming the added fuel will make the plugs turn to shit alot more quicker than what they would usually do... besides its a BAND AID FIX for stalling.. for missfire i'd understand not stalling.. and it wasn't his car.. it was his "friends" car if you can read.

I think it might be something that you need to get use to... from cops or just general public (but if someone from the public says something tell em to get f**ked)... but like RedEmblem said its no big deal if you have nothing to hide then i wouldn't worrie abou it..

All still for sale, prices updated... and i'm open to offers! Thanks everyone!

Interesting... so the ecu thing is bullshit.. lol i actually thaught they were remapped or something... hmm...

Thats just a band aid fix (if it does work which i've never heard of)... to fix it properly you need a form of engine management like R31Nismoid said... safc2 is designed to help with this EXACT issue.. and your car will run better aswell... EDIT : Please show proof of this band aid fix and how logically a spark plug can compensate for the amount of extra fuel thrown in to make it stall... i understand it for missfire but not for full on stalling.

Yea you can put an old head on young shoulders, its think of every consequence which might result from your actions, then weigh it up and say "is it really worth it".. which is what you pretty much said straight after.. Older minds = Been there, done that... Young minds = Need to try everything wether their told to or not... Smart minds (young or old) = Think before they do and get their priorities straight... I dunno if everyone will agree but screw yas if ya dont EDIT : I was joking about the screw yas part

Apparently its just goot to change the wiring from the loom to the pump cos not enough current flows through the factory ones... so yea just change wiring and make sure its giving full 12v+ to get the full potential from the pump, cos its internal you wont need a differnt power source, just a boost so to speak

So an aftermarket ecu would prevent it from stalling even tho he would still have the afm there? Or would it completely stop it from stalling if he had an ecu without a map sensor? but then he'd be screwed with cold start... you cant win just leave it plumb back EDIT : Or buy a safc2 and get that tuned...

Yea r34 gtr is when you have an extra 30k+ above what you probably paid for this sitting there in the piggy bank... I think this R33 is nice as! EDIT : When you buy a car with YOUR OWN MONEY... not loaned... not payed for by rich mommy and daddy... thats when you have something to be proud of... and GtrVspec you have something to be proud of!

When i was at Chasers motorworks i was talking to the mechanic there and they were in the middle of building a motor for a r32 gtr, the motor pulled out and put back in including forged pistions and all that normal shit people do, including 2 gt2861's dyno and everything cost around 10k, when they tuned it they got 265awkw on 1 bar.. and probably get more out of it.. This other dude i know that had this s15, under 20k on every mod he done from stock incl clutch and ecu and tune and full rebuild forgies and shit seen him make 300rwkw.. For $40k i'd want a full blown race car lol

lol looks like they forgot to remove everything before they palmed it off...

Yea thats exactly what i'm after, i just want my money spent to at least feel worth while, i'm not after a power figure but more the driveability and extra pull compared to the way it was before. I put up this topic so i could get a general understanding of the sort of inj size i'd need IF i reached that power figure, wether i do or not i don't really care.. i'm not going to get upset if i get 220kw but the car feels 10 times better than before.. if i spent 10k on my motor i'd be pretty pissed if i didn't get well over 250kw and i couldn't keep it straight on the road but thats not going to happen (for a while anyway)

Yea get that cap... contracts suck balls! f**king exit fees...

dude just take it back to your mechanic and tell him to sort it for you before something bad happens

LoL.. Is the HKS GT-RS kit with the oil water lines and all fittings and shit.. is that classified as bolt on? cos everything is designed to fit like the turbo and oil n water lines in the kit?