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Posts posted by Torques
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Thanks for the feedback ... I definitely like no 'judder' ..
but will give it a go since I always thought the clutch feel is a bit detached and mushy. I think that's the consumer setup to make it 'nice' for ordinary customers ...
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I have these in my R33GTST .... with the standard spring rates they sell.
I'm not 100% happy with them, but for the $$ I guess they're ok.
Main complaint would be that they're either too harsh or too mushy for my taste.
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Thanks ... will do ..
Can you tell me what difference it will make? How's the clutch feel afterwards?
I always thought the clutch feel is somewhat 'mushy' that's why I'm looking into the thing
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I had an OSG clutch installed some time ago, but never removed the 'clutch damper line' ...
Does is make a big difference at all and what is the best way remove / bypass it?
Cheers
Attached from the manual (Figure 2)
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Yes, works with the mentioned P11 actuator .. drop in !
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According to my manual it sits right next to the airbag sensor (93) the number for the Remote Control unit is (89)
So left hand side, glove compartment .. happy hunting
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Has anyone measured how much current the starter motor draws while cranking a cold engine?
Thanks
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So update on my initial problem.
I found a push-pin that is about 1.5 mm shorter. (Ideally 2.5mm would do the trick)
I'll see if that fixes the issue for the time being. There's still no play at the fork but no pressure either.
I could mount the slave without any problems, but it sits tight.
In a couple of days I'll test if the clutch is still slipping...
I'll pull the box at a later point ...
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On 12/17/2020 at 9:31 PM, GTSBoy said:
While that's true in general - on a particular engine, retaining the same mode of induction (ie turbo(s)), then the relationship between torque revs and power remains fairly constant. More power = more torque at about the same rpm.
That depends, often the torque curve shifts upwards when modifying an engine (especially with bigger turbos). Thus making more power @ higher rpm.
All things being equal it would be nice to have a torque figure for a clutch.
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10 hours ago, BK said:
I think it's time to pull the box out, remove your clutch and inspect the setup. The clutch has obviously worn raising the front cover fingers, making them push against the release fork, therefore pushing your slave piston in. It could be slightly disengaging the clutch without you realising it by feel.
The question will be is it because of an incorrect bearing carrier length being too long, causing premature wear in the plates. Or everything is infact correct, and it's just worn out from light use because the STR2CD is a shit clutch (which they are from a performance point of view).
There's a reason there is no OS giken GTR recommendation to fit a STR2CD behind an RB26 GTR, because they handle very low torque and is barely an upgrade over a stocker as far as torque loading goes.
Cheers, yes ... it's time to possibly rethink my choice of clutch while at it .. I think it's just worn.
Which clutch would you recommend? 300KW ish setup? Must be 'OK' to be used in traffic.
As for STR2CD, OSG wouldn't give me any torque figures, just HP (450-500).
I found that a bit funny ..
For example you could make 450HP @
8,000 rpm and 295 lbs ft
Or
4,000 rpm and 591 lbs ft
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12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
But that was always clear.
It wasn't made clear ... hence we now have requesters popping up.
I think it's such an import principle of operation that there should have been something in BIG BOLD LETTERS about it.
It wasn't ...
I still have the documentation from when I started, there's no such mentioning. Improvements were made over time, but just recently there was more 'guidance'
I bought into NT about 9 years ago, and there were many unknown unknowns at this time
It was work in progress, that's for sure.
But as said,NT is the best bang for the buck if you want real time tuning, wideband integration, logging and so forth.
I also like the AFM principle and by now 'know my maps' from fuel cut, startup, idle timing, throttle enrichment etc.
Still, maybe at some point I'll be switching to a modern ECU. Mainly for engine protection and boost control. I was looking at Adaptronic but I don't really like their software in addition they have been bought up and I'm not sure what's going to happen to them.
Cheers
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I checked the pedal travel, and it needs about .8 - 10mm until it rests on the master rod/actuator.
Then another 5 to 7mm till there is resistance and the clutch starts to operate.
I'm not under the impression that there is any 'load' on the clutch master while the pedal is resting / clutch disengaged.
I didn't unbolt anything, so that's just my observation from operating the pedal by hand and having a close look / feel.
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10 minutes ago, BK said:
😂 That is from their english OS giken page, which is definitely incorrect compared to a copy I have, which I've referenced when doing GTRs. Something has been lost in translation...
The one from actually OS giken Japan says:
Cheers for that! Yes, my document / info is from the US support!
When the clutch was installed many years ago I didn't do the due diligence. I ordered the whole kit from Japan, so I assumed it will be ok. I also didn't check how much free play there was at the fork etc. since it wasn't installed by me but my mechanic. If it was already 'tight' back then it would explain my current issue.
While at it, back then I also bought this Nismo slave ... it wouldn't retract further, would it? I think it's just a bigger cylinder for heavier clutches (?)
I never installed it since the twin clutch was easy to operate.
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Thanks for the input, I got the info from OSGiken. I did not measure the actual sleeve when it had been installed (which I should have).
All I can say is that the clutch came with the spec'd carrier / bearing. I don't see my clutch in the attached page though, do you have another document?
Cheers
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All -> cheers for the help,
While at it would you know if the actual release bearing is OS-Giken only, or would the OEM fit as well?
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7 hours ago, BK said:
As @robbo_rb180 mentioned above check your pedal box integrity and adjustment against master. You should never actually need to adjust your pedal height if done correctly in the first place though. This is normally set when a new clutch goes in and actually should be pretty low before any fork movement happens.
The theory behind this is as your clutch wears your pedal becomes higher with also less free travel, indicating plate wear. The problem is most people adjust their clutch pedal to be too high when a new clutch goes in, thinking it's too low to the floor when it really isn't. If you do this so you start with a higher pedal you run out of adjustment when it starts to wear, which ends up preloading the pressure plate fingers, causing a slipping clutch as it is ever so slightly disengaged.
So have you got a high clutch pedal with no free travel ? Did you ever have pedal free travel ? If so you could try to adjust it do the pedal becomes higher until you get some sort of free travel, unless you got the wrong carrier in there, which I suspect you do as you mentioned a 16mm carrier.
Is this a 32 or 33 gtst ? And is it definitely a dampened STR2CD clutch ? Because I just checked and the OS giken STR2CD correct release bearing carrier from OS giken specs is 18mm for R32 and 14mm for the R33.
I think your box is coming out mate.
You're correct, I got this wrong from my other clutch document (TR2CD), it's 18mm, not 16mm.
It's an R33 GTST, I couldn't re-edit my post to put this in.
Good points, I'll check the pedal height and check if there is any pre-load on the master.
Attached a picture of the slave, not sure if it can retract any further?
Cheers!
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11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
And in earlier documentation we were advised to unplug & disable the flag... guess what that did? make the car go straight to the last column everytime it came onto boost... yeah that was fun, went pig rich and shot out a backfire.
Updated documentation then recommended it was plugged back in, flag disabled and the voltage limits maxed out. This helped, but the transient map was a pain in the arse to tune.
If you're referring to the NT documentation then you're spot on.
It was a constant journey of discovery for me since things were not made very clear in the earlier documentation.
Still NT is the best bang for the buck I think, and Matt has done a great job.
Older Nissan ECUs don't even allow for a ms based tune, since the pulse width is calculated based on TP etc.
After 8 years of toying with NT we finally get a pop up requester in NT outlining that the fuel map is just a 'trim' and that AFR are just a guestimate ....
Better late than never!
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11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Yeah, and none of it did any good to us! Just makes life harder.
That's what I heard too ... funny!
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I had this clutch (STR2CD ) in my GTST for about 8 years.
I did about 8,000km on it, 30% city traffic, the rest 4th/5th gear on the motorway.
Clutch was never abused .. no burnouts, daily commute etc.
Long story short:
Clutch started to slip in 4th+ gear at 3800rpm coming onto boost (18PSI)
Checked the slave cylinder, and (the plunger) sits tight with no play.
I had trouble getting the slave cylinder bolted on again, it's about 2mm 'off'
So I presume this is down to wear. I don't know how much play the plunger/fork had at installation though.
Clutch was installed brand new, with the supplied bearing carrier/sleeve. (16mm)
I don't want to pull the box atm and was thinking shortening the plunger by 2mm .. clutch should still disengage I reckon.
Thoughts on this? Would that be an option?
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One thing you need to understand about Nistune / Nissan ECUs of this time:
The ECU has no idea about airflow in terms of any physical unit.
The only real difference between a 'big AFM' and a 'small AFM' is mostly determined by K which is the injector multiplier. Interestingly enough, if you change K, the whole scaling / TP calculation drifts too.
A lot of moving targets!
It took me years to figure that out because it was never really made clear in the documentation.
I'm still on the K based Nistune ECU because I tweaked my map over the years to 'as good as it gets' and don't want to start from scratch with TIM (Total Injector Multiplier).
Yes, Nitsune is a bit of a hack, but so is the ECU
R34 ECUs added a VE map and the ECU actually knew about boost pressure ..
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There are many 'versions' floating around and not everything is documented , especially with S1 S1.5 and S2 (M/A)
Also pinouts vary depending on model / year ... it's hit and miss.
But P56 is solely dedicated to the AT
On R33 S2 there is a 2nd TPS-Switch, it connects 57 and 54, it's the same setup as on the Z32 (I got a Z32 ECU in my R33)
I yet have to find an R33 wring diagram with the TPS switch present ...
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Yes, I agree ... 1L /1000 would be excessive .......... and quite expensive too depending on the oil you're using
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Hi ..
Thanks for the replies
By low mileage I mean 86,000km! I owned the car for 12 years and the Ks are genuine.The car is sadly rarely used, I bought it with 72,000km on the clock.
It's one of the last made S2s and traffic here is so horrendous that it's mostly not worth driving in the city @ 5 - 40 km/h and zero boost.
Yes, I was thinking maybe valve stem seals but it's hard to ascertain since it's not blowing any blue smoke. If it was I could just close the throttle at higher rpm and in gear to see if anyting is being sucked into the combustion chambers via stems / seals.
I will have to take a look at the turbo's oil return feed too and also see if there's anything wrong in terms of play etc.
As for oil usage, I've driven around 1,500km and according to the dip stick there was next to no oil 'missing'
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My car has developed a whiff of burned oil note from the exhaust.
It's not not using any excessive oil or producing blue smoke, is there a way to isolate whether it's the turbo or the engine?
No oil visible on the compressor inlet. (from the engine cover vent)
Inlet manifold is clean as well.
Spark plugs look clean, compression is good on all cylinders.
Engine is almost standard with hybrid turbo and low mileage.
Cheers ...
but will give it a go since I always thought the clutch feel is a bit detached and mushy. I think that's the consumer setup to make it 'nice' for ordinary customers ...
OSG STR2CD vs TS2CD? (R33 GTST)
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
Can someone clarify which of these clutches are rated for more power/torque?
There is conflicting information on the WEB, OSG (JAP) states the TS2 can handle more power, but on other sites OSG states more power handling for the STR2 ...
https://osgiken.co.jp/Clutch/feature.html
I've got the STR2 in my R33 but it now needs a refresh, so thinking about alternatives. I'm also disappointed about how quickly the plates wore out.
I'm driving mostly in traffic that requires a lot of clutch actions, OSG stated that the STR2 is more designed for 'hard' operation and might wear out quickly.
Thanks