Torques
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Posts posted by Torques
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Hello,
What does the grey dot/marker on the R33 GTR wheels indicate?
It's at a different location for each wheel. Does it indicate the lightest or heaviest point of the wheel?
Cheers!
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I need to touch up my wheels where I slightly hit the curb. Nothing mayor just a few scratches.
Is there a colour code for the GTR wheels, or has anyone found an off the shelf spray colour that matches?
As per title: It's the silver R33 GTR OEM Wheels ..
Cheers
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The GTR came with 245/45/17 from factory I think.
Would 255 or 265 fit without any crazy ballooning?
Also is the step from 245 to 255 noticeable?
Cheers ....
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I checked,
And you're correct. The fan blows inwards.
When I checked initially there was a noticeable airflow to the 'out' direction. That was however deflected air from the condenser unit.
Cheers! :)
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I'm quite sure the fan moved the air back to front ... I'll double check ....
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Would anyone know why the electric AUX fan (triggered by a temperature switch in the radiator) actually blows in the opposite direction of the clutch fan? Doesn't that work against the flow the clutch fan generates?
I'm sure there is a reason for this ....
Cheers
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OK, cheers for that ... if the shoe doesn't fit, it's not your shoe/seat ...
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As per title, do the GTT Seats fit (as in straight swap) ?
Thanks!
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
I have highlighted the word that demonstrates that your vehicle's roll stiffness is not what is causing your perceived problem. Roll is not and cannot ever be worse when going slowly, as the mechanical forces acting on the car are lower when going slowly. You get more roll with more speed.
'Twere I you, I would ponder the fact that BC and similar barrel bottom dampers only adjust the rebound rates and not the bump rates with their clicks. Their fairly crude damping valve stacks may well be sufficiently poor to allow too much compression when loaded over a long period (ie, a slow corner). It may well be a damping problem.
Good point you're making. I always thought too that the oil in there would pose less restriction when the shock was compressing slowly.
BC says on their website that the compression/rebound is set simultaneously. I'll give them a call!
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Thanks for the help.
By sway I mean body roll/lean and vice versa. So the outer wheel dives too much while cornering.
To my knowledge an anti sway/roll bar prevents just that by acting as a torsion 'spring'
The amount of sway/roll I have is not massive but especially when cornering slowly the outer wheel dives too much for my liking.
I'll have a look at the poly bushes and will give my drop links a second look.
WL is not doing a 27mm anymore but now the 24mm they have is adjustable (mine isn't)
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Long story short:
Car has
24mm front WL anti sway bar (also a rear one)
8/6kg BC coilovers (set at 22 click towards firm / below 22 too mushy, above too harsh)
Tyres are 245/45/17 on GTR rims
For my liking the front still has too much front sway. (rear is fine)
A mate mentioned that the tension bar bushes are quite soft on these car, but would changing them to poly bushes help with sway?
Any other suggestions what I could try?
Cheers
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So to conclude this post ... the brake shoes I did order did not fit and I decided to re-ruse the old ones.
One side was thinner than the other and quite glazed, so I suspect it had not been adjusted correctly.
I gave both sides a treatment with sanding paper, and I suspect that these pads were the Nissan ones form when the car rolled down the assembly line.
First 2 pictures are from the worn pad, 3rd is the other side which I cleaned up and slightly sanded.
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On 3/16/2019 at 12:04 AM, GTSBoy said:
I use the handbrake at full crank to brake check kunts who are tailgating me. No brake lights gives them an even bigger scare.
I do that tooo ! That will teach 'em !
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Haha .. thanks guys .. I left the handbrake on myself a couple of times while driving.
Not for too long though.
It's also good practise to slightly engage the hand brake from time to time while driving to clear the rust in the drum.
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On 3/9/2019 at 9:30 PM, GTSBoy said:
Also completely unnecessary. They are a handbrake shoe. They don't wear out.
You don't know until you know
... it's a 20 year old car and I rather have new ones at hand while replacing the rotors. Shoes might be cracked, brittle, worn, or just fine ...
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I'm installing new rear rotors and rather have new brake shoes while at it.
Now at least on EBay brake shoes for the R33 GTST seem to be over priced.
Now I came across this ad:
According to the compatibility list the r33 uses the same shoes as a Skyline Crossover which sounds hard to believe but would be great since much cheaper.
Any input appreciated .. thanks!
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Thanks for that ... mine is about 470mmHG (idle/ 77C) which is 18.5inHG.
I'm running (RB25DET) slightly higher idle/timing (850/20) because of my poncams and OS GIKEN clutch (light flywheel) and was wondering what the vacuum on other cars is.
So I guess that's in the ballpark.
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Would anybody know what their manifold vacuum (mmHG) at idle is?
Thanks
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Got him out ... the rubber seal was damaged so it wouldn't seal 100% anymore.
It was still the OEM unit from 1997 in there ...
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Thanks for the help
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Thank you,
I think I just get a new one then .. I didn't know they had a small opening window.
Is there a paper gasket at the housing or is it a fluid one?
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On my R33DET the radiator starts to get warm pretty early, it'd say possibly from 40C onwards, so not long after start.
Is this normal or should the thermostat stay closed for longer (they do have an opening slope)
Thanks
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OK, I got this myself:
The hard line on the left is open ended and about 1.6 meters long.
One end is connected via a t-check valve to the lower part of the canister.
The other end ends near the middle of the door at the chassis rail
Pin 56 on ECU
in Car Audio & Electrical
Posted
To my knowledge Pin56 goes to the A/T ECU on S2
(30 +) 38/48 to the TPS