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Torques

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Posts posted by Torques

  1. I hear your pain ! Ive been looking for one for quite a while, specifically the full wiring diagrm as I want to retro fit a A-LSD V-Spec diff to my R33 GTST Series ! !

    Thanks God! There's another guy looking for the real manual ;)

    Funnily no one else seems to bother ....???!

    I need the full wiring diagram as well ... (that's what I'm looking for)

    I'll dub them The Lost Scrolls from now on ... it's very mysterious, isn't it?

    If I come up with something I'll let you know. Promised!

  2. Hi!

    I was wondering with a car as popular as the R33 Skyline how come there is no chassis/body/electrical workshop manual available???

    I got the complete workshop manual package for the R32, but for the R33 it's 'just' the engine workshop manual floating around.

    It's a total mystery to me ... (and it's annoying :domokun:)

    Any ideas where the complete package is to be found?

    Can it be bought? Who has it?

    Looks like this ->

    man.jpg

    Cheers ...

  3. Hi there ...

    I see, your grill is not exactly SMIC friendly :down:

    No wonder you switched over to the FMIC.

    If it wasn't for the good price I would have gone for the FMIC myself but I want to gain experience with the car step by step.

    So the R34 SMIC seemed like something reasonable to start from. Cheap, easy to fit and modest gains (?)

    (especially with the standard turbo)

    My car is 99% stock and right now I'm just aiming at stage I tuning.

    As for the R32 actuator I agree, however these are hard to find (I keep looking though)

    Cheers and good nite ;)

  4. Hello to the new day and NZ ..

    Thanks for the heads up ...

    So What you're saying is that you just detach the grill on the left side?

    Or do you remove the whole thing this way?

    But I guess I got the picture and you have to reach behind the inner guard to get started.

    As for boost pressure I agree ... it's definably safe at 10PSI .. and heard 10-12 would be alright too.

    (but that's a discussion as old as the R33 ... right? :D

    More importantly .. did you feel any difference due to the R34 intercooler?

    I got the SMIC for a good price, and having just the standard turbo I thought it might be worth a shot

    (A boost controller is on its way from Japan too ... so it might be playtime for me soon )

    I'll keep you posted with some pictures!

    Cheers from the past,

    Andrew

  5. Hello Sarkis,

    I hope you're still around since your original post is 3 years in the past ..

    I have the car that you have (had?), and the R34 SMIC is also here ready to go in.

    Could you please tell me how to remove the front grill? (and what else has to be removed)

    And does the R34 SMIC fit right in, or are there any modifications necessary?

    How did the story with your car go on from there?

    Did the Turbo eventually fall apart due to the higher boost?

    Let me know, I'm curious to hear the whole story :)

    Cheers from London ...

    Hey Guys, thought to share this with you... i just installed an R34 GTT SMIC onto my R33 GTST and boosted to 10psi + ECU Reset

    Current Mods: 3" Split dump + 5" S/Steel CAT + 3" CAT back exhaust + Turbotech

    Results: Car comes onto boost MUCH smoother & revs to redline MUCH easier.. there has been a HUGE increase in pull through out the rev range especially in 1st and 2nd gear... Dyno would be nice, any one offering a free dyno pass? lol

    Recommendation: Definitely worth the upgrade if you have stock turbo... Proior to this upgrade, the car felt held back and restricted, now the car feels much freer and has noticably unleashed more power... Throws you right back in the seat :D

    Note: Prior to the SMIC installation, i flushed it with degreaser/hot soapy water and i couldn't believe the amount of black crap that came out! had to reflush about 4 times before it was 100% clean... then ran warm water though to get rid of the soap/chemical residue... i then stuck an old hair dryer in one end and let it sit there for 30min untill it was drip dry.. worked a treat!

    Look at the size difference between R33 SMIC Vs R34 SMIC

    Here is a couple short videos while driving home tonight, its just to show the smoothness of boost and ease of rev... (excuse the bad footage due to holding my phone while recording and driving) Hope you like!

    video_0004.mpg

    video_0003.mpg

    Regards,

    Sarkis

  6. Hi there ...

    I hope this is the right forum ..

    I need to remove the front grill on my S2 since I have to change the side mounted intercooler.

    Is there a guide (best with pictures) how to do this?

    And is it much work?

    Of course I want to avoid any scratches (OMG!!) or marks due to improper removal attempts, so any help is highly welcomed.

    Thanks in advance,

    Andrew

  7. Hi there ...

    Thanks for all the hints and opinions ...

    I've learned that:

    1. The standard turbo might or might not fall apart over 11-12PSI
    2. Dual solenoids are better?
    3. The Profec IIB is best value for money
    4. Any other 2nd hand controller might work as well
    5. :D

    As much as I like the Blitz with the fancy boost graphics I placed an offer on the old school HKS EVC 4

    http://www.geocities.com/todakmoto/carparts.html

    I got it for a good price and if it's not working out for me I go for a newer unit ...

    As for the standard turbo falling apart or not I posted these videos earlier:

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...43#entry4758543

    Cheers :(

  8. Hi Paul,

    Thanks for the advice ... I thought it might be 'safe' going a few seconds over the limit.

    But maybe I'm just looking for an excuse buying a larger turbo :(

    If 11PSI is fine, I should be running 11PSI all the way.

    Do you have any idea how many RPMs the turbo needs for 11PSI?

    I have placed a bid on the following attached HKS.

    If it's not working out I'll go for a Profec I guess.

    there are issues by going shortly over the limit of the standard turbocharger

    the first is it wont make any more power past 12psi, and it just throws out tons of heat

    and second is it puts the turbocharger and engine at great risk, the shaft speed can cause it to fail

    and the excessive heat can cause the exhaust wheel to fail (as its ceramic)

    so you dont get any extra power and you put it all at great risk for the sake of having a "scramble" or "high boost" mode

    you are far better off having the car and controller set at whatever safe limit you can run, 11psi is prefect on the stock turbo.

    when you drive in the rain or snow, just drive like a normal person does, don't floor it and drive easily

    the turbocharger will only wind up and put out power if you stomp on the accel pedal

    so guess what, if you floor it, its going to come on boost and give you some power, so dont when its when or just go easy

    post-33912-1250334133_thumb.jpg

  9. the main difference with the older EVC was price and the basic control unit, no fancy screen

    you are paying premium $ for the screen

    Hi there ...

    Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

    I thought of the scramble/overboost feature as a way of going shortly over the limit with the standard turbo charger.

    In addition I thought it would be nice driving with lower boost in rain/snow conditions.

    So a unit with different settings would come in handy.

    But I agree you definably don't need all the gimmicks, especially when the display is as tiny as with the blitz.

    I'll have a look at the HKS, it looks quite functional ... maybe just what I need?

    B4RSK_094.JPG

  10. Hello,

    I am looking for an electronic boost controller but have no idea what to look for.

    It will be used on my GTST with (at the moment) standard turbo.

    I'd like the unit to:

    1. Display boost
    2. Display max reached boost
    3. overboost / scramble mode
    4. reliable operation

    From the looks of it I fancy the Blitz, since it displays a boost curve and all kind of other stuff.

    However I'm afraid it might be a bit too small to be of real use.

    I could get my hands on any of these one:

    http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/electonic/..._ctr/sbc_id.htm

    http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/electr...oost/evc_s.html

    And the other ones I have attached.

    Thanks for any hint/advice ...

    post-33912-1250251892_thumb.jpg

    post-33912-1250251907.jpg

  11. torques - think of it more as just removing the distributor, same mechanical purpose.. I have an old v8 in my shed with a distributor mounted off the front of the camshaft same as a cas, not a new idea.

    gotrice - possibly, but then it is up to the individual how keen they are.

    Well, everybody is new at something sometimes ..

    It's funny that the manual does not say that you have to adjust the timing after you removed and refitted the crank angle sensor.

    However, there is an entry in the maintenance section that you can adjust the ignition timing using a timing light and by rotating the sensor.

    In any case you pointed me in the right direction (thanks for that), so I will mark the position and probably double check the ignition timing since it's

    so much fun working with a strobe light anyway :P

    Cheers,

    Andrew

  12. Just mark it to get it close to where it should be, you will have to adjust it with a timing light after you refit everything anyway, but then if you needed to be asking this you probably shouldn't be doing it either..

    Thanks for the answer and no worries I am quite a good mechanic ..

    I have the Skyline as a newer car, and am not familiar with all aspects of the engine.

    I think it's only natural that you ask if there's anything unclear and removing the upper cover seems within my 'grasp' I guess :)

    Cheers!

  13. Mark position of crank angle sensor on timing cover, undo the 3-set screws and remove crank angle sensor.

    Alright ... I might be a bit late for this reply ... :ninja:

    But I was wondering why you have to mark the position of the crank angle sensor?

    I checked the workshop manual and it did not mention any position marking necessary.

    Can the sensor be adjusted? Or has it to be adjusted?

    I'm asking because I want to remove the cover to check the timing belt.

    Cheers,

    Andreas

  14. You are correct, BUT the R33/34 Actuator is only set to 5psi, and the solenoid bleeds off an extra 2.

    So running directly off the actuator would only net you 5psi. Hence why alot of people go for the R32 actuator upgrade. They run a 10psi actuator. Do away with the stock solenoid all together. Win win.

    I thought he meant bleeding the actuator line all the time ... but actually he didn't?

  15. sorry if im way off the mark, but can't you just run vac line from actuator to manifold pressure?(one of the nipples on ur intake piping) Wont this run actuator pressure? without the need of boost controller? Sorry if this is wrong, just seems easier to do to get 7psi across the rev range?

    Hello there!

    Yes, I think in theory that would be working (connecting red and green in the picture),

    however there might be some kind of calibrated bypass in the solenoid so not too much pressure is bled off the actuator.

    See this picture: (red=compressed air, green=atmospheric/negative pressure)

    blowoff.png

  16. Hello there,

    I came across these videos.

    It shows an R34 upgrade using larger exhaust, intercooler, and finally boost level (boost controller) upgrade.

    After each mod it goes to the dyno, results are shown.

    I found this quite interesting, so have a peek:

    Skyline R34 Stage 1 Video/Dyno

    You need Windows Media Player and a good internet connection.

    I was tired of rubber stamp sized videos, so I encoded the video in a decent size.

    Cheers :P

  17. hahah yeah I am sorry .. yeah i watched the vid, interesting :happy: it must be cause its a streaming vid (cant dl it directly) that's causing the fuss on this comp..

    No damage taken ...

    And I agree with you that there are lots of dodgy things out there and sometimes it's hard to tell.

    I'm glad you could watch the video alright and your computer took no harm :mad:

    Many cheers from London.

    Andrew

  18. hahaha call me paranoid but I still find this whole thread strange and sus .. the video link gives me a prompt and trying to right click the file and download isnt allowed, some sort of scripting used to give a fake error..Dodg-eeeee.

    Mate,

    You a very much in error :mad:

    There is no scripting whatsoever ..

    And you can right click anywhere you want.

    I could not link to a media streaming server in this board directly, so I had to link to a HTML-Page (my page just containing one link (PLAY ME)) that in turn links to the video file.

    The video file is streamed via a windows media server (my own) to make it convenient for you people to watch it.

    There is no, and I repeat no dodgy script or anything.

    And there is no fake error ... and no file to download!

    It's streaming!

    Have you ever right clicked on anything in YouTube???

    Get educated on the issue :D

    Geez, you are paranoid for sure :happy:

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